hey guys I got a question? So i plan on getting the enkei nt03+m in 18x8.5

I have been researching offsets and fitments for a while now but the more I read the more I get confused

I am confused to what offset I should go with. I dont want spacers or longer studs. I dont want any rubbing. I will roll the fenders if need be. My main concern is comprimizing handling. I would like a nice concave look but keep the great handling evos are known for. I believe stock VIII wheels are 17x8+38 offset where as the Nt03's are 18x8.5+38 offset 5x114.3

will this fit without any modifications?

 

edit

 

18x9.5 +20 works for me

 

From Virginia, but was stationed at Jacksonville for 8 years before coming up here

Yeah I have mixed feelings about it... but we can all still be e-friends

 

I assume the bar is at the back? You'd want to lower the back rates as well though right? If you just soften the front and keep the rear at the high setting all you've done is made the difference between the front and rear settings.

 

One more day till the BBQ.

Mo, talk to us about it at the BBQ, I am pretty knowledgeable about wheels and offsets, and Zak is as well.

 

Yeah for sure, Im still trying to figure it out

 

Well my understanding of it is to have the motion ratio of the car closer to 1:1 10kF and 12kR is about ideal for this. Although running much higher spring rates negates this to a certain point. I think these rates will make it fairly neutral though as I don't want it to be tail happy. The Hotchkis is in the rear and is a small bar. Max setting is only 47% stiffer than OEM which is less than most 25mm bars on their softest setting.

 

Well from what I understand, +25 is a good number for evo's, with a slight fender roll, 8.5 wheels and 255 tires would be more than enough to handle your 300 hp!

And look phenomenal while doing it.

 

I didn't finish my post...must have been too late. What i meant to say was "If you just soften the front and keep the rear at the high setting all you've done is made the difference between the front and rear spring rates larger. With the back with even high rates relative to the front, you'll increase the tendency for oversteer.

So I think running it that way is going to make it even more tail happy. If you want the car less tail happy bring the difference between the front and rear spring rates closer together. The smaller the difference the less the front/rear will rotate better than the other roughly. Now of course you would end up getting closer to understeer but your car will push less if the you bring those rates closer together.

I don't like the tail out myself...I run the Works Rear Sway and even on the softest setting its made the tail a bit more "loose" to me so I have to mess around a bit more with the settings on the coils to try to dial that out. I don't have a baller coilover setup like you do though

For anyone who wants to learn a lot about basic suspension on the cheap I suggest 1/10 R/C Touring cars...not the toys you get from Radio Shack, but a Team Associated/HPI/Team Losi etc. type setup they help you pick up a lot of this basic stuff without spending a fortune.

 

So let me ask you this. If you had the choice would you choose 12kF and 11kR or have them currently at 11kF and 12kR (considering my 24mm rear bar also). I am trying to decide before I put them on and have them corner balanced. I talked to a couple shops who have experience running Ohlins on Evo's and they each gave me a different suggestion. The valving can handle +/- 3k according to Ohlins engineers so I may experiment with different rates also.

 

where do you get your corner balancing done at?

 

Is anyone on this forum from Europe? because I seem to be the only one =[

 

Well this being the Washington State chat thread I'm pretty sure none of us are....

 

Group2Motorsports...best place to go in western WA imo. Real race shop and they know what they are doing.