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GROUP BUY: Gauge Panel
#34
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Since when can't you paint stainless steel or aluminum? With a small amount of sanding and some primer, you can paint anything.
I got measurements and will upload and updated picture shortly. I would really appreciate it if someone could validate these measurements. Thanks.
I got measurements and will upload and updated picture shortly. I would really appreciate it if someone could validate these measurements. Thanks.
Last edited by livelyjay; Oct 29, 2004 at 05:41 AM.
#36
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I don't think it would even come close to fitting. Plus you don't really need to see the TT any ways. The only way it could be done, would be to have one gauge and then the cutout for turbo timer. There is someone on the forum with a panel already made like that, but I wouldn't even know how to find them. I'll let everyone know what Steve has to say about the measurements. I mean it's going to be a tight fit even for 52mm gauges. The din is 54mm tall, so cutting 52mm holes is going to have to be very precise, and bending the metal without screwing up that 1mm of room on each side of the panel needs to be equally precise. Hopefully it can be done.
#37
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Here is an update from Steve. Here's what we are thinking. I know you guys want flush mounting, but what exactly is flush mounting. The stock EVO gauge kit has a panel much like what we are trying to build here (though it comes with like 42mm gauges). If the intention is to have the panel come up and be at exactly the same level as the AC Panel opening, it might not be possible because there will only be 1mm of clearance on each side of the gauge. What we are discussing is building the panel in a different way. Bring the panel up to sit flush with the back side of the AC Panel (pending any obstructions, will check out this afternoon), then the gauges will be sitting at the same level as the AC Panel opening. What does everyone think? Here is the latest email from Steve:
I'll go over it with them when I go there today. We'll get it to work one way or another. I may just have them bend it slightly less than 90 degrees (so the flanges are slightly away. Then that will give the gauge clearance. There may be a slightly deformed edge because of the hole basically going overonto that edge. At the same time, it being a little over 52mm will just make the fit really tight, but should be ok otherwise... the other option is to recess this ever so slightly so that the gauges are set so THEIR faces are level with the front, and the plastic is basically the boss.. I think that would look very nice actualy... and is a more traditional gauge mount... what do you think? Do you know what I mean???
I'll try to draft that for you if I get a chance... and you should post that pic and see if people like it or not, that will get us around some of the issues... unless the gauge face is too large to fit in the din slot itself.... I take it your bezel is above the plastic? or is it in line with the plastic?
I'll try to draft that for you if I get a chance... and you should post that pic and see if people like it or not, that will get us around some of the issues... unless the gauge face is too large to fit in the din slot itself.... I take it your bezel is above the plastic? or is it in line with the plastic?
#38
The main problem I would see with a recessed panel is the lip of the gauges themselves would probably not fit. For example the defi D-Gauges have a silver lip that is probably too thick. If that is the case, you wouldn't be able to fit the body of the gauge all the way flush and it would leave a gap. However, if you were going to make the panel recessed you could make it slightly larger than the opening anyway and then use a spacer panel of some sort to bring it flush. The spacer would not have to be as rigid since it would be backed by the other part. Hmm... I don't know if that makes sense to you, I'll try to come up with a picture of what I mean.
Originally Posted by livelyjay
Here is an update from Steve. Here's what we are thinking. I know you guys want flush mounting, but what exactly is flush mounting. The stock EVO gauge kit has a panel much like what we are trying to build here (though it comes with like 42mm gauges). If the intention is to have the panel come up and be at exactly the same level as the AC Panel opening, it might not be possible because there will only be 1mm of clearance on each side of the gauge. What we are discussing is building the panel in a different way. Bring the panel up to sit flush with the back side of the AC Panel (pending any obstructions, will check out this afternoon), then the gauges will be sitting at the same level as the AC Panel opening. What does everyone think? Here is the latest email from Steve:
#39
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You are very correct. I just checked out my panel and that is a problem. This won't be a problem if he can do it in the original fashion, which we will know about later on today when he gets back from the machine shop. Here is what I am thinking, and it might be possible, and what I had in mind to begin with if I was doing this on my own.
Two panels, one made of metal, the other of plastic. The metal one can be any gauge, and it is cut with three gauge holes, and two tabs per side to mount. Second panel is plastic, and would fill the gap between the first panel up to be flush with the AC Panel (may have to use two panels of this type, depending on the gauge of the plastic). All panels would be screwed/glued/etc together. What about that, if possible and costs are close to what was expected originally?
Two panels, one made of metal, the other of plastic. The metal one can be any gauge, and it is cut with three gauge holes, and two tabs per side to mount. Second panel is plastic, and would fill the gap between the first panel up to be flush with the AC Panel (may have to use two panels of this type, depending on the gauge of the plastic). All panels would be screwed/glued/etc together. What about that, if possible and costs are close to what was expected originally?
#40
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Here's the latest from Steve:
I talked to the machine shop and they think they can do some stuff to make the panel work out ok. It will be bossed to be flush with the top of the plastic, so the gauges would protrude slightly from the console (just the bezel would be higher). The sheet metal will be pretty thin.... about .031 inches or .78mm, so it is just thin enough that it will fit, but can still be bent and be very strong and rigid. So the deal will be getting the bend to be right on the edge of that hole so everythign works out. We discussed it today and they can do that, they will just have to take a nibble out on the edge of the circle. It will be invisible due to the bezel of the gauge masking it. They understand this is a cosmetic part and we will hold tolerances pretty tight to get it to work out. I'll be having 1 or 2 protos made that will be used for fitment check, but will also be saleable assuming there is nothing wrong with them fit wise. I may end up getting locked into a production run of 10-50 of these units. So we may end up carrying stock on them. Again I am doing everything imagineable for you guys to ensure two things: These are as cost effective as possible, and look as good as possible. We will also be using finish 4 stainless, which is the same stainless you see on fridges and appliances and the like. A very attractive light brush stainless. It can be buffed out though as well, but that will likely be our base finish. Monday or Tuesday we will be going over final details with the quote, and I should have my samples by the end of the week. I'd assume we'd haev parts for you guys by about Nov. 15th or sooner.
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i have a dumb question.. i'm not too adept with this.. but if we were to get this we would need the stereo relocation and the craig hardy panel? or is this suppose to be some sort of craig hardy panel adaptor.. or something in that sense.. haha.. sorry plz enlighten me.. haha