Hey Matt, just got off the phone with Fuelab and as far as building a fuel system goes I was told for 900-1000whp (~1200 crank) ethanol setup to use twin 42402 pumps in parallel with the 52902 electronic FPR. A variable speed control is built into the prodigy pump to keep things under control on the street and less volume recycled creating less heat. Hope this somewhat helps!

 

I don't have any interest in running twin pumps any longer. Going mechanical gives me more than enough fuel and reduces strain on the charging system.

If I go electric it'll be weldon. Too many horror stories with other brands losing flow and people melting engines. I can build a fuel system that provides more than enough fuel and with better reliability. It comes out to about the same price as a weldon setup and should live a lot longer. This also gives me enough flow to run whatever fuel I desire. Thanks for the input though.

 

I agree. I have seen the Holley pump, its really just polishing a turd for lack of a better analogy. For the base pressure I want to run, boost, and available voltage I don't see a better option. Electrical is great for big power at low volume(pressure) but for the 4 cylinder stuff that drives better on higher base pressure but needs big boost to make power the electric pumps in a solo just don't meet the demands with an acceptable margin of safety. So the option is to throw a second pump, big pumps need big power. Now you're changing to a 16v system or a bandaid boost a pump. By the time you added it all up to make an electric system work you've spent the same money(or more) and added a ton of weight. The mechanical option allows me to run any fuel I want.

I have two options. I can run a cable drive pump back at the cell. This can be costly plus a hassle to drive the cable with little available bolt on cogs. Second option is to use the Magnus bracket and cam drive it. The only problem with that is a need to prime the system. My idea is to use the stock evo pump, housing and line to prime the system after periods of being parked. Either switch or aem controlled. Probably the later during key on like a normal prime, then have it kill the pump during run/crank

 

Totally understandable and I agree with everything that was said. My only concern would be the streetability factor on a mechanical pump. Any input on it?

 

For reference the aeromotive mech pump which is $600 runs at 656 lph/437 gph at 100 psi fuel pressure. The magna 4303 $500 at 80 psi at 14v is I think 114gph and falling rapidly as pressure goes up. The weldon 2035 I think is at 180 and is maxed around 80psi $850 plus $150 controller. I know initial expense will be higher with mechanical but unless someone that has had experience with them gives some input it really seems like the way to go.

 

NASCAR and all old school cars were mechanical pumps. I dont see an issue as long as the regulator and lines are correct. I'd love some input though.

 

437 gph? Typo?

 

No. Rated 2700 lbs an hr at 100 psi. I believe that's what that translates into. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

I think marco had a gear or pulley system that he was using to drive his alternator at the rear diff. Something similiar could be used if you wanted to run a mechanical pump at the rear of the car. however there would be some fabrication with mounts etc to get it to work.

In regards to loosing prime , There might be some options to install check valves or something else so it never Loses prime during shut down. However to initially prime the system after installation, you might have to do it manually if that makes sense.

Also you could drive the mechanical pump of the crank, utililzing the ati crank pulley, so going of the cam gear isn't the only option IMO, however the cleanest I think.

At the end of the day I am thinking you are close to 1600 or more on a mechanical plus line and fittings.

The beauty of mechanical is the higher the rpm the higher the flow.. nice and simple.

all bets seem like you are going with mechanical

 

I have an ati pulley already. I assume they already make something for the domestic guys, I don't know if that translates into a direct part for us or not. Room down there is minimal too. I think even with an anti drain back they still have to be primed if left for a few weeks. Which in all reality isn't a big deal, I could pop the line on the regulator and fill from there. I think you're about spot on price wise. Which if you really think about it its not far off from a single big electric setup ones lines are included. I think I'm liking the pump up on the cam except for the fuel lines being close to the exhaust manifold. If I could get a cable drive off the cam it'd be nice.

 

I'm guessing the cam driven setup won't work leaving the MIVEC cam gear then , has to have both gears non MIVEC?

 

It only needs one cam,, I believe the Magnus setup runs off the exhaust cam.

 

I think this will work if you're concerned with prime Aeromotive Priming Kit

 

That's cool they offer something, I can do it for free with a stock evo fuel pump though.

 

Going mechanical for everything needed is 2700, to go electric on a big enough weldon is 2300. Starting to think the 6466 is a bad idea lol. Either way I want to get a good single pump in the car.

In other news. The seat mounts are done, cage is really close, just a little more welding and door swingouts need to be installed. The ones I ordered won't work so we have been dealing with finding the ones that will, most are on back order. I believe that will be handled before end of this week and the cage will be certed. I'm not really sure on the time frame on the cell but its coming along nicely. Pickup date is scheduled for April 7th, hopefully I can get everything done to race it at the race in May in Norwalk.