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Wheatley's 6262 build

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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 03:57 PM
  #586  
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Cage is looking badass. Were you going to put back the interior?

And you're going to drop some cheese for that pump, damn it that's a good amount. I think Ive spent around the same things going through different options in the past month or so
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #587  
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Yeah it'll have full interior again. At them moment I don't know which route to go. I'm not doing a single pump without a retune so I might as well wait and do the turbo at the same time. These walbros have been in here a while and are making me nervous lol
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 04:23 PM
  #588  
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Originally Posted by Wheatley
Yeah it'll have full interior again. At them moment I don't know which route to go. I'm not doing a single pump without a retune so I might as well wait and do the turbo at the same time. These walbros have been in here a while and are making me nervous lol
Nice, I like I want to take out more things under the interior though.

Run those walby's into the ground lol
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:16 PM
  #589  
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The primary is 9 years old. In 2010 it was seeing 88 psi fuel pressure lol.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:38 PM
  #590  
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Originally Posted by Wheatley
The primary is 9 years old. In 2010 it was seeing 88 psi fuel pressure lol.
Oh man, well that might need a new one lol
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:43 PM
  #591  
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Originally Posted by LGshow19
Nice, I like I want to take out more things under the interior though.

Run those walby's into the ground lol
What are you thinking about removing on the interior? I've looked but don't see much to remove that wouldn't negatively impact the car. All my windows and locks still work, heat of course, radio and door beams.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:53 PM
  #592  
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Originally Posted by Wheatley
What are you thinking about removing on the interior? I've looked but don't see much to remove that wouldn't negatively impact the car. All my windows and locks still work, heat of course, radio and door beams.
Door beams, maybe heater core if I pull the dash, sound insulation, and anything else I can find.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 06:51 PM
  #593  
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Ic. After looking at the door bars its not worth the risk of removing. If I had spare doors if cut them in a heart beat. The heat I have to have up here, only most nights I'm out in the car the defrost is on other than the dead of summer.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #594  
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Yeah, I understand what you mean. But if you crash while racing Im pretty sure you're done regardless of them or not. They also total in at about 40lbs supposedly so will see. Thats one of the last things Ill be doing if I do decide to. Heat is definitely needed up there lol, down here Ill be fine with a hoody if its cold lol
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #595  
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No, I don't think the door bars do crap in these econoboxs. I'm just saying from a pure cosmetic and cost standpoint. The only real way is to get tools in the door and start cutting, if you still have the entire shell intact then it would be very difficult to remove them without damaging the finish/surface on the skin of the door. If I had spare doors I'd cut and then just have them repainted or repaired. Its not the actual cold that bothers me but the fact the windshield fogs up and can't be seen through. I'm sure unless you're away from the city you don't get too much.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #596  
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Oh ok I understand your standpoint now... Ill most likely give it a shot and see what happens, but like I said that should happen after other things go first. I really want to get a CF roof and possibly dry carbon hood then repaint the car(leave the CF accents of course lol)

It actually does get pretty foggy on the windshield, but nothing a little wipe here and there wont fix. I already had to commit to deleting heat at the moment because I had my thermostat housing welded(the two outlets for coolant... one heater core and the other for the turbo I believe). I would also have to have my water neck remodified because I had bought a separate one that I didnt realized didnt have the heater core coolant outlet. Other than that the Dash would have to come out and take it out, but Im not too thrilled about doing that just yet lol
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #597  
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Dash takes less than an hour. It's less dirty and irritating than the tcase.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #598  
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Originally Posted by Wheatley
Dash takes less than an hour. It's less dirty and irritating than the tcase.
Thats good too know. Might end up pulling it off sooner than later

Oh that tcase though lol
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 04:23 AM
  #599  
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2700 for a mechanical ? thats more than I thought but plausable none the less.

The cage is looking really trick, The down bars, that go from the hoop to the center of the cage, typically go to the tunnel versus the floor, unless they changed something in the rule book. The f...ers made me put these bars in my FWD car LOL, I had to explain to them that I didn't even have a driveshaft.. Stupid rules.

It will be sweet to see that silver and blue sticker on the cage
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 05:14 AM
  #600  
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Originally Posted by antilag_200
2700 for a mechanical ? thats more than I thought but plausable none the less.

The cage is looking really trick, The down bars, that go from the hoop to the center of the cage, typically go to the tunnel versus the floor, unless they changed something in the rule book. The f...ers made me put these bars in my FWD car LOL, I had to explain to them that I didn't even have a driveshaft.. Stupid rules.

It will be sweet to see that silver and blue sticker on the cage
The -12 lines needed are just outrageous. The electric requires a -12 to the pump, -10 feed and -8 return plus I'd run the weldon regulator. The mechanical needs -12 feed, -10 return and a bigger regulator plus other components. Whatever I do I want to do it once and be done. The 2035 is looking pretty promising at 14v and 80 psi.

I've read that in the rules as well. I mentioned it and was assured it was ok. Hopefully it is, I'd hate for them to have to redo it.
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