Wheatley's 6262 build
Wheatley,
Is your head or your block o-ringed? Who did it? what o-ring did they use with what headgasket? Any extra reasoning you have for why you did it the way you did?
I'm contemplating o-ringing my 4g64 since I'm getting an 83mm exducer turbo now...
Is your head or your block o-ringed? Who did it? what o-ring did they use with what headgasket? Any extra reasoning you have for why you did it the way you did?
I'm contemplating o-ringing my 4g64 since I'm getting an 83mm exducer turbo now...
My setup is not o ringed. I dislike orings. With the proper deck prep, l19 and quality gasket I don't see a problem unless you have an issue in the tune or another failure.
My 2.0 was ringed. It was copper in the block.
My 2.0 was ringed. It was copper in the block.
10-4. I'm under the same impression. Just loosing some of the confidence I had given the bore spacing on the 4G64 block and starting to push for more power.
cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure. You can double it or triple it by inducing knock. So you're best bet is to stay safe with the ignition advance and don't go nuts with the ignition advance. O-ring helps hold the gasket if you are nearing the cylinder pressure limits of the gasket without knock. I think I'm going to agree with Wheatley... and use the Cosworth gasket without the o-ring.
cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure. You can double it or triple it by inducing knock. So you're best bet is to stay safe with the ignition advance and don't go nuts with the ignition advance. O-ring helps hold the gasket if you are nearing the cylinder pressure limits of the gasket without knock. I think I'm going to agree with Wheatley... and use the Cosworth gasket without the o-ring.
Actually an oring done improperly creates more sealing issues. I hated the oring 2.0 block. I had sealing issues above 40 psi and it made doing anything that included head removal a much longer task. If you want a properly done oring contact Marco. The mls gaskets from mitsu and cosworth are great gaskets and for most setups do a great job, deck prep is everything. But like Ernie said the space between the bore can only handle so much cylinder pressure. I'd suggest to not addressing an issue until it actually becomes an issue. The big difference I see between the two setups is the amount of time each setup sees use. Your setup will have much longer heat cycles and cylinder pressures for longer periods of time. What sort of power are you looking to make Ernie? My biggest suggestion would be to keep it off limiter and if you do anything with two step to keep it conservative.
Actually an oring done improperly creates more sealing issues. I hated the oring 2.0 block. I had sealing issues above 40 psi and it made doing anything that included head removal a much longer task. If you want a properly done oring contact Marco. The mls gaskets from mitsu and cosworth are great gaskets and for most setups do a great job, deck prep is everything. But like Ernie said the space between the bore can only handle so much cylinder pressure. I'd suggest to not addressing an issue until it actually becomes an issue. The big difference I see between the two setups is the amount of time each setup sees use. Your setup will have much longer heat cycles and cylinder pressures for longer periods of time. What sort of power are you looking to make Ernie? My biggest suggestion would be to keep it off limiter and if you do anything with two step to keep it conservative.
I have been using the Pro 12 cdi box from M&W for almost 6 year now. I know that for your car you might want to consider something that outputs at the 150MJ or more. The 300m coils IMO are not the greatest.( My car doesn't make as much power as yours) however I have to drop the gap down to 19 when running ethanol and low 40s of boost, even with the PRO -12 box
the pencil coils could also be another option with a different CDI box.
In regards to the pump, just buy a Weldon and be done with it.. Or for simplicity grab one of marcos Couplers to a mechanical pump
the pencil coils could also be another option with a different CDI box.
In regards to the pump, just buy a Weldon and be done with it.. Or for simplicity grab one of marcos Couplers to a mechanical pump
Touching back on this. Ive been doing more and more research on the pump situation. I'm starting to see a lot of failures on the magnafuel world in domestics. After really doing the math I don't know if the magna 4303 can really keep up and I'd hate to upgrade my fuel system and be at its limit right out of the gate. I looked into the weldons and for the money of a pump and controller I could almost be into a mechanical setup that would leave room to grow and be easier on my electrical system. The weldon would be better than the magna flow wise but it would also be towards its limits. I have no interest in going 16v or running boost a pumps or any of that. I want a rock solid reliable system. I still have a ton of reading to do to see if the mechanical is the way to go but I have a feeling it might be. I want to stay on an ethanol based fuel and I don't want to run two pumps so we'll see when it comes time to decide. I'd just hate to have it all race car status on a bottom 9 second car lol. If I stay at the level I'm at its so much easier to find a pump.
I know you said you didn't want two pumps, but how about two pumps in one housing
..http://www.holley.com/12-1800.asp
As with most things, it mostly boils down to cost. and simplicity of the system. I for one am a big advocate of the K.I.S.S Principle.
In regards to your statement of Low end 9 sec car and race car status
.. its all relative .