Yes. The back one was there from before and would be a pita to remove. It fills rather quickly with ethanol junk so the addition of the Fatfab can is for extra capacity. I had two -10 in stock locations before with both going to the back can. Now the back can has one -10 from the back of the cover and the Fatfab has the two from the end of the Vc. Should be easier to drain at the track rather than crawling under the car to drain the back one.

 

Engine bay looks really clean man! The fuel tank look awesome as well, 30lbs savings or so is no joke and I bet a lot of people will want to switch to it

 

I too am liking the fuel tank idea you came up with extra weight savings and you'd never even know it's under there!

Car is looking GREAT.......glad you were able to use some ideas off my cage and take it to another level

 

Thanks guys! At this time the 30lbs is an estimate but I think it will be really close to that.

Function and Form in the same package, my kinda stuff! I wanted it tucked up out of the way, its level with the floor other than the sump and is very easy to install or remove. Hopefully it works well and its something people can start running. I always loved the look of cars at the track with a sumped tank and the fuel pump visible but I wanted this hidden to not gain attention.

 

Everything looks great Matt, I am ready to go racing for sure!!!

Everybody interested in the fuel cell send me a email Sales@Fathousefab.com or a pm here. I am working on the final design and price as we speak!

I'm sure I can offer a introductory price on the first run!

Fathouse

 

I want a tank like that! I'd be interested as well

 

awesome tank!
good job fatfab!

 

Looks great! Are you going to have it at Muncie anytime soon? I want to see it in person.

 

The anno fuel tank is pure win.. Nice work Jeremy and Matt.

 

I doubt it. I switched my work schedule to spend more time with my son, just happens that Wednesday I work too late to get to the track. I'd race fridays but with the "fastest diesel" comp it just destroys the track. No sense in racing if I'm trying to avoid mud and don't have any track prep. I'll probably spend most of my time at IRP even though I hate racing there due to the long waits in staging.

Thanks Warren.

 

Nice work man, love the car. How comfortable are those Kirkey's?

 

I like them.

 

Tank looks good Wheatley! And I knew Dan would be the first person to comment about it, haha...

 

I figured as much as well. I had the fuel gauge working great with all oem parts. I just removed the saddle side pot and put it in a project box with no float. I found the sweet spot to make the gauge read half when full and empty when empty. I was taking photos to do a writeup and it went dead. The gauge nor e light would function. I checked the ohm sweep of each pot and all fuses in the car. I checked the factory manual for the pin outs and nothing was checking bad. I pulled the cluster, all looks well. The fuel gauge ohms the same as the coolant gauge so I assume the thing isn't fried. The stock pots just adjust resistance to ground and still show continuity to ground. After putting it all back together the gauge is energizing to 1/4 tank but the needle doesn't move no matter where the pots are adjusted too. I've tried even jumping each lead one pot at a time to make sure they were passing current. The only think I have left to do us jumper to a known good ground. I don't understand how it would work and then stop just while adjusting sweep. I would key off key on between every adjustment

 

Should've ordered -8 return from the get go. Started the car tonight and after some tweaking its firing pretty nice. It was idling very rich as I though it would with all the pump it has now. Minimum base pressure it would come to was 50. I ordered -8 line to hopefully drop it a bit more. The fuel lab regulator I have only has a -6 out so I'm hoping a -6 to -8 doesn't keep it that high as long as the rest of the line is bigger. It'll be going from 5/16 to -8

The 4" aluminum sounded awesome at idle!