Tsidrift1: Evo IX Project.
Exactly! I have been fighting this issue since last year. Ever since I got the hta86 on the car, obviously, higher boost followed and the regular beehives just couldnt keep up lol.
Small Update.
So ever since I sold my hoosier/fd setup, I have kind of been on the hunt for a 17" wheel again. I have went back and fourth on whether it was a set of 17x9 rpf1s again, or some tc105n in 17x9.
Well my buddy helped me out. He found a set of the 17x9 +22 rpf1, brand new, in the SBC finish!! Finally, a SBC rpf1 with a offset that I can work with!!
Got a pretty good deal on these too. Should be here friday. I am gonna throw a 255/40/17 nt05 or hankook rs3 tires on them. Prolly have to do a little work on the rear fenders. I dont want to anywhere past what stock camber adjustment allow. So if I have to roll them, so I will!
Oh yea!!
So ever since I sold my hoosier/fd setup, I have kind of been on the hunt for a 17" wheel again. I have went back and fourth on whether it was a set of 17x9 rpf1s again, or some tc105n in 17x9.
Well my buddy helped me out. He found a set of the 17x9 +22 rpf1, brand new, in the SBC finish!! Finally, a SBC rpf1 with a offset that I can work with!!
Got a pretty good deal on these too. Should be here friday. I am gonna throw a 255/40/17 nt05 or hankook rs3 tires on them. Prolly have to do a little work on the rear fenders. I dont want to anywhere past what stock camber adjustment allow. So if I have to roll them, so I will!
Oh yea!!
What a disaster this has turned into! So the guy that I got the wheels off of, either put the wrong address by one number, or the idiot post man read it wrong, so now all four wheels are headed back to the seller right now. I might just be getting my money back for these, unless the seller wants to ship these FedEx or UPS. Who ships wheels through the post office anyways!? Frustrating.
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Mechanicsville, MD
What a disaster this has turned into! So the guy that I got the wheels off of, either put the wrong address by one number, or the idiot post man read it wrong, so now all four wheels are headed back to the seller right now. I might just be getting my money back for these, unless the seller wants to ship these FedEx or UPS. Who ships wheels through the post office anyways!? Frustrating.
So I finally got the 4th wheel on Monday. Ordered some nt05s in 255/40/17, they came in on wed.
Got them mounted and balanced on Sat. I am in love with this setup. I have always liked the sbc rpf1s, but the sizes were never favorable for evos.
These are 17x9 +22 with 10mm ichiba spacers in the front. I did have to roll the rears for some clearance. I dont wanna go past stock camber settings, so I rolled first.
I cut the fender in about 1/2" increments to make it easier to roll them back. I just used the heat gun and lightly tapped the tabs back with one of my light body hammers. I had to keep the metal warm to keep the paint from cracking. It was a success!
I went ahead and sprayed the inside with primer and paint to cover the areas of metal that were exposed due to cutting them with the dremel.
All done!
Got them mounted and balanced on Sat. I am in love with this setup. I have always liked the sbc rpf1s, but the sizes were never favorable for evos.
These are 17x9 +22 with 10mm ichiba spacers in the front. I did have to roll the rears for some clearance. I dont wanna go past stock camber settings, so I rolled first.
I cut the fender in about 1/2" increments to make it easier to roll them back. I just used the heat gun and lightly tapped the tabs back with one of my light body hammers. I had to keep the metal warm to keep the paint from cracking. It was a success!
I went ahead and sprayed the inside with primer and paint to cover the areas of metal that were exposed due to cutting them with the dremel.
All done!
Thanks, I might add a little more camber in the rear, but not going any further than the stock eccentric bolt allows.
Last edited by tsidrift1; Dec 15, 2013 at 06:27 PM.
Got some small updates.
So Ive wanted to do a full size battery in the trunk for some time. When I got my first short route intercooler pipe, I just bought a small battery kit for ease and so I could quickly install the new pipes.
Since the car is pretty much sitting for the winter, I figured I would get a jump on the battery relocation. I had no real issues with the small battery kit, but a few days at work after sitting in my car for almost an hr, the battery would have a slow start, some of the cold fall mornings when id take the car to work, same thing, some slow starts. I never had an issue of the car never starting though.
What I got.
Moroso certified battery box
2 guage power wire
4 gauge ground cable
100 amp circuit breaker
Stinger fused distribution block
Misc ring terminals
I never liked the way a lot of people did the battery relocation. I wanted to create my own fused dist block, instead of having the original one just bolted to a power wire and hanging in the engine bay somewhere. I did like the setups where guys were using the evo X parts, but I figured I would give this a shot.
So I started by taking apart the main fuse block for the positive terminal. Nothin hard here, just pull the wires out of the loom and separate them. I then cut off all the ring terminals they came with after I identified what wire was associated with what fuse, if any. I then connected the appropriate wires to the correct terminal with the correct fuse in place. Once the wires were connected I re routed them back in the factory loom and secured with tape. I did not modify the wires at all, other than cutting the original ring terminals off them.
All tucked back in original loom.
I painted the cover of the fuse block black so it wouldnt stand out so much, kinda hard when the fuses are bright green and purple though lol.
On the box in the rear, I mounted my circuit breaker to the box and secured my 2 ga power wire to one end of the breaker. I made sure all my connections were secure. I was gonna solder my connections, but lets face, I suck at soldering, so I just crimped the ring terminals on and heat shrinked them when finished.
Here the almost finished product is. I still had to crimp on final ring terminal on the power wire at this moment, which is why the cover is still off as well.
And Done! The battery box is mounted with the supplied 3/8" studs that come in the kit. I had to remove the evap canister crap under the car to get access to the nuts, but it wasnt bad to remove and install. This battery isnt moving, Ill say that.
I didnt mount a kill switch as I dont go to tracks that often. The only time the car is on the track is my local po-dunk 1/8 mile track and then at the shootout, which so far has never tech inspected the cars too seriously.
So once I was finished, I started it up, started right up, even for a battery thats been sitting for about 4 years lol. Not bad. Pulled it out of the garage for a couple new pics on the new wheels and tires.
So Ive wanted to do a full size battery in the trunk for some time. When I got my first short route intercooler pipe, I just bought a small battery kit for ease and so I could quickly install the new pipes.
Since the car is pretty much sitting for the winter, I figured I would get a jump on the battery relocation. I had no real issues with the small battery kit, but a few days at work after sitting in my car for almost an hr, the battery would have a slow start, some of the cold fall mornings when id take the car to work, same thing, some slow starts. I never had an issue of the car never starting though.
What I got.
Moroso certified battery box
2 guage power wire
4 gauge ground cable
100 amp circuit breaker
Stinger fused distribution block
Misc ring terminals
I never liked the way a lot of people did the battery relocation. I wanted to create my own fused dist block, instead of having the original one just bolted to a power wire and hanging in the engine bay somewhere. I did like the setups where guys were using the evo X parts, but I figured I would give this a shot.
So I started by taking apart the main fuse block for the positive terminal. Nothin hard here, just pull the wires out of the loom and separate them. I then cut off all the ring terminals they came with after I identified what wire was associated with what fuse, if any. I then connected the appropriate wires to the correct terminal with the correct fuse in place. Once the wires were connected I re routed them back in the factory loom and secured with tape. I did not modify the wires at all, other than cutting the original ring terminals off them.
All tucked back in original loom.
I painted the cover of the fuse block black so it wouldnt stand out so much, kinda hard when the fuses are bright green and purple though lol.
On the box in the rear, I mounted my circuit breaker to the box and secured my 2 ga power wire to one end of the breaker. I made sure all my connections were secure. I was gonna solder my connections, but lets face, I suck at soldering, so I just crimped the ring terminals on and heat shrinked them when finished.
Here the almost finished product is. I still had to crimp on final ring terminal on the power wire at this moment, which is why the cover is still off as well.
And Done! The battery box is mounted with the supplied 3/8" studs that come in the kit. I had to remove the evap canister crap under the car to get access to the nuts, but it wasnt bad to remove and install. This battery isnt moving, Ill say that.
I didnt mount a kill switch as I dont go to tracks that often. The only time the car is on the track is my local po-dunk 1/8 mile track and then at the shootout, which so far has never tech inspected the cars too seriously.
So once I was finished, I started it up, started right up, even for a battery thats been sitting for about 4 years lol. Not bad. Pulled it out of the garage for a couple new pics on the new wheels and tires.
