The one thing that comes to my mind for the Evo 10 is that the exhaust cam will go way out of phase when there is no oil pressure. Otherwise seems straightforward. Have you considered disconnecting the UICP from the IM to first verify that there is nothing amiss with the the charge piping and IC?

 

It doesn't go way out, it locks into position at 0*.


If you're hearing a leak from the back of the motor, check the wastegate? Or do you think you're hearing the air just going through the exhaust?


Are your AFR's good during these pulls? at only 25psi, low WGDC, and low timing, a boost leak shouldn't be causing knock. It's not like you're having to crank the **** out of the WGDC to get the boost, so a leak may not be your culprit....


I hat to be the one to suggest, but have you cut open an oil filter yet? Sudden knock sensitivity like this can indicate a not too happy rod bearing(s).


Also, did you double check the torque on the knock sensor bolt? If it's loose, it will get false knock.

 

Yea it sounds like it's just going out the exhaust. I put my ear by the external and didn't hear anything really.

Yea I tend to agree, the car does 24-25psi with only 17% WGDC. Here is a 3rd gear log with not much knock: https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/rcpwot...2&zoom=111-349

Everything looks good, oil pressure is good, low WGDC for boost. Only thing that is odd is the low timing to ward off even more knock. One thing to note is that it's about .2 leaner than I would normally run on this pull but I was just fine tuning the fuel cal table at this point.

I cut open the first oil filter. It looked okay, had a metallic shimmer, like the oil, but I just thought that was normal for the first oil change on a built motor. No bits of anything.

I have my oil filter from the last oil change, I'll cut it open tonight or when I can get some time this week.

I have not, I'm not even sure the best way to get in there with the intake manifold on.

 

I know it's scary (lol) but try giving it more timing. Like 5 more degrees everywhere, see if it cleans up.. The way the knock is random, it may be small/mini misfires causing a knock reading.


There was a guy hunting for false knock in the EvoX engine section, and after I discussed it with Aaron, it needed the knock sensor numbed and more timing. And you're 7-10* shy on timing ..


I think the IM needs to come off if you want to get torque wrench on the knock sensor, unless you have a small torque wrench. Near the top of the block in between cylinder 2 and 3.

 

I want to figure out the lean idle first. That is the reason I have been trying to boost leak test it.

Also, for sure not 7-10* shy, that would make it 16-19* up top which is way too high for a 10 with 10:1 compression ratio and a turbo that flows. I would say it's about 3-5* shy of what I would normally run with this setup.

Yea that sucks. Although it would give me a good excuse to put my port matched intake mani on. Is the 10 manifold pretty straight forward to get off? Do I need to move the power steering pump? I looked at the knock sensor yesterday inbetween the runners, it look like it's clocked correctly but yea who knows if it's tight.

I'm basically at the point where I am sick of working on the car and want to just enjoy the damn thing. Le' Sigh...

 

The higher flowing turbo (especially the hot side) allows for more timing thanks to lower EGT. What I stated comes directly from knowing what Aaron has found to work, and he is someone who doesn't like to run a lot of timing. Not here to argue opinions on timing though. I know has his datalogs posted on here somewhere if the IMG's still work.


I've never actually removed the X manifold for the sake of only removing the manifold. The times I've done it was with the engine out and stripping it down for tear down and rebuild. I've removed a few 8/9 manifolds with the motor in the car, and The X mani looks a lot easier than that

 

Yea I was looking it over last night and it seems just the one bolt by the power steering pump could be a pain in the ***.

I hear yea on the CT9A intake manifold removal. I don't want to ever do that again. Same thing with the DSM intake manifold. Total royal pain in the ***.

...but the CT9A turbo removal is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier.

 

CT9a turbo is easier. But I feel lik the X turbo is easier than a CT9a IM lol

 

Cmon guys the IM removal on CT9A isnt that bad. A couple of the nuts on the bottom arent the most fun but other than that its cake especially if you dont have that stupid lower bracket on the car.

Sucks youre still fighting this thing. Don't give up. I cringe at the thought of all the lil quirks I'll have to sort out now that my motor finally decided to let go.

 

no, not in a million years... turbo removal on the X was a royal pain in the butt..

didnt do the intake sadly..

 

Idk. You pull the EM, disconnect all the lines and intake, and pull it out. Takes me like an hour..

 

Question unrelated to all your motor gremlins.

How effective is the inconel shielding at reducing underhood temps?

Is it noticeable? Enquiring minds want to know ��

 

So I pulled my plugs after my drive this weekend that was riddled with knock. The plugs where totally clean and looked brand new. No signs of detonation at all.

So, I decided to try something out. I bumped my knock table up by 2 and went for a drive...

All the knock went away. There are still the normal 1-3's every once and awhile, like a normal Evo, but overall it's totally clean. It's like a completely different car now. No longer does it knock if I sneeze.

I'm starting to think maybe the built motor is just noisy. I'll pull the plugs after a couple days to see if they are still clean plus I think I am going to wire up that extra knock sensor and use the det can software to make sure.

I decided to also add 2* timing over all which makes it still run lower timing than normal but the car feels much better at WOT now.

Here is a 3rd gear log: https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/rcwots...zoom=1110-1556

I've maxed out my ID1300's now. I just ordered a set of ID1700's.

I still have to figure out the lean idle so I can turn my trims back on but overall I'm enjoying the car for the first time basically since I got it back.

For kicks, here is a v-dyno from last night vs my break in pull a couple months ago.

 

are you runing it on pump or e85?

we were thinking that a surefire way of distinguishing between knock and mechanical noise would be to run something like pump ignition table with E85, with fueling adjusted of course... that way you are sure not to have any real knock... then adjust knock tables untill it is knock free..

 

Currently E79. It's in the log.

It was knocking off idle when leaving from a stop, normal driving around town with throttle inputs, WOT, etc. Was driving me crazy.

I basically had ignition timing lower than 91 oct pump gas, on E79.