Figured I should keep this thread updated. Ended up picking up an evo 4 intake manifold to simplify the back of the engine a little bit. It doesn't use a manifold mounted MAP sensor so I'll be moving from my OMNI 4bar to an AEM 3.5bar sensor mounted with the pressure sensors for oil and fuel on the back of the firewall.




Starting to get through sorting out the (hopefully) last of the wire changes. Still trying to decide how I'm going to loom stuff this time. Before I used a high grade woven tape but I think I'd prefer a sheath type looming this time.



My Eagle 94mm crank arrived the other week. Now I have everything I need to put the new engine together. Will likely start that early next year as I still need to finish up some other stuff with the old engine in the car and I don't see a point in putting together an engine just for it to sit around for a few months. Also picked up a Fluidampr crank damper to go on the new engine, my old OE damper was starting to look pretty worn out and I figured the Fluidampr would be some good piece of mind.



Still waiting on some proto parts to come in from the machine shop. Hoping to get a lot of stuff complete by the end of the year but we'll see.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-looms/...nd-sleeving-6/

 

I need to dig into this too. Not nearly as much wire to remove as you but definitely enough worth doing. Plus trying to clean up that mess of OEM wiring that's by the shifter.

 

You know it's funny, I spend thousands with McMaster every year and didn't think to check their site for split looming

Behind the dash is the worst but that's where most of the weight was for me. All said and done I'll have just shy of 20lbs out of the factory chassis and engine harnesses. There's a good amount of weight in airbag crash sensors and wiring if you're not street driving the car anymore and can pull airbags.

 

I use them for work and personally and still every once in a while forget about them. I think I ended up using three different sizes. Super easy to deal with and just dressed the ends with some Super 33.

 

Every one of my computers (4, all have different uses) always have a tab of McMaster up. Lol, I use them so much.

 

Mouser is a really good electrical supply as well.
* Not responsible for the negative impacts on your well being. I will happily take credit for the positive ones though.

 

It seems cheap enough so I'll likely end up buying a plethora of it. Now just trying to see if there's a decent heat shrink tape I can pair with it. Trying to avoid electrical tape as it always ends up attracting oil and turning sticky and nasty whenever I use it haha.

Had the app for a couple years now but I do have some gripes with it, when you don't know exactly what you're looking for it can be painful to use. When I was living in Illinois I'd pick up will call orders from their distribution center in Elmhurst on a weekly basis which was the best, but even in MI I still get most of my orders in one business day.


The only thing I'm still debating with myself as far as electrical goes is if I want to make a disconnect connector for the engine harness. Essentially would make it so I'd just have to disconnect the battery and two main connectors to disconnect everything on the engine from the rest of the car and not have to worry about removing all the connectors on everything to get the engine out. My biggest concern is with the knock sensor because it's a shielded wire and I'm not sure how shielding gets affected if it goes through a connector.

 

I've done a fair amount of EMC/EMI work. I'd want the knock sensor cable going through a separate connector with shield continuity.

If you ran it through the same connector it would couple noise from nearby wires and pins where it entered the connector. Unless, of course, you got a super $$ connector with some coaxial pins that allowed you to maintain shield coverage through the connector.

Cheaper to just get a separate knock sensor specific connector for that line.

I'd even consider using the ECU's connectors as a guide for grouping signals together in your harness. You want to keep fast-changing signals like injectors, PWM outputs, and relay controls physically separated from your sensitive sensor signals. The ECU pinout is good at keeping these different wiring classes physically separated.

 

I've debated removing the knock sensor wire from that loom entirely to minimize that but would have to figure out how I'd run it. Luckily I'm not moving too much stuff around so not too worried about bundling stuff separately or regrouping them. It's still an entirely factory harness, just been lightened a bit.

 

Got a bit more progress made. Have just about all of my fluid lines made except the turbo oil drain which I need to make an oil pan before i can do that. Have had some talks about expanding the business lately so if that goes to plan then a lot of the proto parts I've been teasing should be getting bumped further forward so keeping my fingers crossed on all that.



First up are the new oil cooler lines. Had a bit of fun figuring out how to keep them routed around the oil filter, pan and crank damper. Lucked out that an M6 rivnut is the perfect size to fit into a hole on the bottom of the frame rail and was able to bolt the black bracket directly on the underside of the frame rail to hold the hoses in position.


Side view photo, the lines just barely don't go into the wheel well but I'll be installing steering rack stops to keep the wheels from being able contact the frame rails like they used to be able to.


Another side view. This kind of shows the whole route. The lines are wrapped in fiberglass heat sleeves but I'm still getting the exhaust inconel shielded to keep heat from being an issue.


This is with the rad tilted back to show how the lines are routed once they're past the side of the rad. Still need to double check to see if I need to add any more shielding to them to keep them from chafing but initial checks looked good.


BCS lines made, braided 3AN compression ferrule fittings with fiberglass heat sleeves make these lines pretty much indestructible.


Pleased with how the EVO 4 manifold turned out. Still need to clean out some areas inside it but the exterior is squared away. Ended up plugging the port that was used for PCV and drilling and tapping the front for the BOV reference line and the rear for the MAP sensor reference line.


MAP sensor reference line comes off the back of the manifold and routes to the MAP sensor on the firewall like I showed earlier in the thread. This line is also compression ferrule 3AN.


Oil pressure reference line is actually the turbo oil feed line that came with my FP Green. It's a high quality line and the right length so i was happy that it worked just right.


Oil feed and coolant return lines for the turbo. Clearance to the block is tight so held them in place with P clamps to keep them from getting caught in any tight areas.


Front view shows the oil feed again and the coolant feed.


Coolant feed on top, oil feed in the middle, coolant return on bottom. Coolant return just barely clears the trans by a couple mm but clearance is clearance.

 

Nice progress and all the details are looking great.

 

Thanks. I think all I've got left is to get the shifter cables prototyped and then I can pull the engine and trans out and finish getting the chassis prepped!

 

Going to be an awesome setup. Cant wait to see the car all back together and running. And dyno results of course.

 

Well 10 months later I finally have my coils back from getting revalved. Going through the motions now of optimizing them for the car. Figuring out where I need to set everything to get the most amount of useable stroke. I foresee myself pulling my rear quarters some more to get more compression travel.



Ready for assembly on the bench. Still need some cleaning but already way cleaner than how they came off the car. Ultrasonic tank was a huge time saver with that.


One assembled, one build for checking travels installed on car.


I always double check compression travel on a press in case the piston bottoms out before the top retainer does.


In this case the top retainer bottomed first so all 113mm is usable travel. Still deciding on how much longer I've going to make the bumpstops.