This should be the last time I mess with my SST external filter setup. I have gone through a few revisions on how I have this all laid out. What I have settled on is this Greddy unit that has a built in thermostat. The SST fluid flows from the transmission directly to this guy, gets filtered with a WIX filter and then through the mocal liquid->liquid heat exchanger and back to trans. When things get hot enough, the fluid will go to the air-liquid coolers on the passenger side, and front of vehicle then out to the mocal unit and then return to the trans.


Dr. Seuss style fitting !

 

I am about to do a similar SST cooling solution on my 2 SST cars. Thanks for doing a bunch of R&D!
Would you recommend going with a dodson or SSP heated sump or you think the oil water exchanger you used is enough?
I am building my car to beat on at the track, while the wifes is super low milage and looking to preserve the clutches. As we all know they slip when cold.
How did you remove the OEM filter from the system? You just take it out? Or does the whole plastic hosing removable?
How did you connect the lines to the SST? Just use hose clamps like the the OEM oil cooler or you using some kind of compression fitting?
I just think its hokey to use AN fittings through out the loop then connect it back to the sst via hose clamps.

 

I do recommend the SSP heated sump. If you look at my first post, there is another link about SST cooling stuff and in there I do recommend that setup, although I have never used it. I went too far down another path.
I did exactly what you said for the stock SST filter, just took it out. I used -8an "push-on" hose and fittings for everything, and that matches the stock clamp inlet/outlet which is 1/2". So yeah the system starts/ends with clamps just like OEM. Not sexy, but hasn't leaked.
For the hose I use Mr. Gasket R48 hose exclusively. It is rated to 300F and 250psi !
I have never had a problem with the compression stuff for SST fluid and that Mr. Gasket hose is fantastic.
For oil I use real AN fittings, and for fuel in the engine compartment I use PTFE, and viton for outside of the engine compartment.

 

It's 100% true the OEM rad is a beast. I finally went back to one after having aftermarket rads leak on me after time and I've had various brands. I had a SARD and a Koyo, put leaked on me. My SE is making 600 and the oem rad is doing just fine on the car.

 

Well the car is finally going onto a proper track. Next week I am running New York Safety Track (NYST) for a private event. All these SST cooling upgrades will be put to the test. The surge tank and baffled oil pan will be tested as well because the track was designed for motorcycles; meaning a lot of corners are OFF camber. There is NO fuel available on site, so I am bringing whatever is in the tank plus 30 gallons of E85. That should be enough I hope because the only station is 9 miles away and offers only 91 with no ethanol. I cooked up a crappy 91 octane tune just in case it comes to that. I am going to throw 5w-40 synthetic in her, and change out the rear ATF and both LSD fluids. For pads I am running ST43 in the front and EBC yellow in the rear, and solid one piece rotors. For track timing I have an external 10hz GPS to link to the phone with a RAM mount out the front windscreen.

Interesting side note: To prep the 4b11 for rally racing group N and R4 Mitsubishi upgrades the radiator to the Outlander radiator (8mm thicker and 5mm taller) part number: 1350A206
For the oil they use Mobile 1 5w50 in the 4b11.

This should be great fun. Because it is a private event I am allowed passengers. My old man is coming and plans to go for a ride shotgun. He is near 70, but physically 100% and should have a blast.

 

I calculate the car can run off the surge tank exclusively for 30 seconds at WOT. If the surge tank is actually being "used", that means the in-tank Walbro 255 has gone dry in the radium bucket/hanger or is at least sputtering & sucking some air.
How much lack of fuel can that pump survive before burning up?

 

You'll notice the surge tank surge before you burn up the pump.
With that said, the seals on the impeller will go first. They might last a minute? Or 2?

 

You'll be fine with 30 gallons on a 2 mile track. I would bring a little over 20 gallons for a 3 mile track and I'm pretty sure my car consumes more fuel per/min than yours. :P

Obviously depends on how long your sessions are. The events I went to where 20-25 min sessions although I usually only went out for about 12-15mins each, or about 5-6 laps.

 

Not sure what you mean. If the in-tank pump is sucking air or cavitating/sputtering how would I know it? The surge tanks entire purpose is that I don't notice because the surge tank pump is pulling from it's own 2 liters.

Sounds like your guessing a Walbro 255 can go dry/sputter for a min or 2....Which is fine, I was asking...

 

Yeah I am going to bring the entire 30 because it's an hour drive there and back too. Combined with the fact that its a private track rental which means I am getting as much track time as I want, the last thing I want to do is run out of fuel. At least I can run the tank down without worrying about going lean on an off camber left turn!

 

What I meant was that your surge tank being empty will be an issue, running dry and out of fuel, before the in tank pump will burn up. If there is some fuel left and the in take pump is spluttering/cavitation/sucking air then the pump will be fine. The impeller seals will be lubricated intermittently in that situation.

 

Just had a private track event at New York Safety Track.
The track event went both good and bad. The good news is the car held up 100% without any issues. The track had lots of hard left turns and even OFF CAMBER sweeping left turns. I have no idea how much the surge tank saved me, but I suspect it did as I ran the fuel down to less than 1/2 a tank. The triple SST cooling setup I have designed and built worked and the peak temp I saw on the SST was 222F after I asked the ECU to do the shifting for me for a few laps. Before that it was more like 205F max with me shifting. Ambient was 71F, and it was a beautiful day. When the SST was doing the shifting for me, it holds into redline on corners and this did heat my oil up to 260F so I started a cooling lap at that point. I don't plan on having the ECU decide on shifts for me again, but just to makes sure I am going to add a SPAL fan with a thermostat to the 25 row oil cooler. Apparently this will increase the cooling even at speed by reducing the pressure on the backside of the heat exchanger. It isn't hard or expensive to add, so I plan that as a change and ordered the parts.

Now I haven't done a track event other than 1/4 mile in 10 years. So I left all the computer aids on, and this was a mistake. As soon as the pilot super sports lost ANY grip whatsoever the ECU would start pulsing brakes and cutting throttle. This car is my daily drive and with a decade off from track driving I was on the side of caution. It ruined my lap times. The second mistake I made was bringing only E60 content fuel. With the pandemic I am not burning through fuel, so all my jugs were full of that crappy 60% alcohol fuel. So power was down due to the fuel, and then the power was KILLED as soon as any traction was lost. My brother in his modified '11 mustang pretty much wrecked me even though he has no track experience and was driving a TERRIBLE line on the track.

So next time I am going to bring E85 no matter where I have to go to get it, and at least turn off active brake control, maybe even turn ASC OFF-OFF and so the throttle won't be cut at all. I'll have the SPAL fan on the oil cooler as a just-in-case and pretty much nothing else NEEDS to change.

Like any car junky I am considering shedding weight by ditching the CP-E intercooler for a tube-fin Blitz unit, and swap out the cat-back with a titanium setup. Those are just ideas at the moment. Lastly I should mention the solid-state fuel pump controller also had no issues, as this was the first time it was getting a REAL workout.

 

Leaving the aids on will kill the momentum you can. Typical I run with the AYC brake off. In addition I would say you are spot on to never let the TCU shift on its own and rather you self shift, things are just better that way. As far as the gas, it really just depends on truly how many gallons you can bring with you and your distance to and from the station to the track. You need to try and see if you can find any local groups that measure e85 on the regular so that you can have the higher content. Running the lower grades can gum up things in your fuel system as typically does stations don't treat and clean the tanks properly anyways. You would almost be better off just run 93 in that case.

But nice work getting out on the track and testing out the things you've made to see if they've worked.

 

The Evo 10 is so forgiving that I always tell everyone, regardless of skill level, to turn all nannies off as it really kills the fun of the car and makes it *harder* to learn the chassis.

btw, you won't notice much difference between E60 and E80, if the tune is optimized and not set to kill, which any track tune shouldn't be. I've done pretty extensive testing around that, and there are multiple articles and findings from others that agree. Only reason I run E75-E80 is because that is what came out of the pump and mixing is a pain in the ***.

 

For each alcohol mix I have a "boosted" tune (map 0) and a wastegate tune (map 1) that I can switch with the cruise control button. So I was on E60 on WASTEGATE, because as you said I didn't want to run "kill mode" on the track. The problem is that 18psi on E60 just was very little power overall. At some point I want to pay someone to take all my tables and maps and just put it over to evoscan and I will wire up the alcohol sensor to the ECU input and then have dynamic mixing of alcohol content. Next time should be a lot more fun. I am most pleased that the SST didn't overheat or give me any trouble. I did pull the CAT out for the event, but once I put that back in this week I might just leave it in there going forward.