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Yeah the bulk of the weight is in the sunroof assembly. My evo was my DD for 10 years so I have the dumb version. Its funny bc in the end Im going to have an SSL minus the sunroof leather seats and sub...whoops!
I can get you weights of the old roof skin minus sunroof assembly when I get the old one off but I believe the AL one is around 10# lighten than the steel roof. That being said not exactly great bang for the buck coming from a steel roof but you know how the weight game goes, the deeper you get into it the harder it is to find weight...
Yeah once you factor in having this one painted the cost to go to CF probably wouldnt be all that much more. The AMS CF one is also 7# lighter. But after talking with Dallas, he confirmed I can't go CF without bumping to prepared which would be a huge bummer. But alas I was able to find this one and it'll drop 38# over my existing roof!!
Sorry if I'm not reading this correctly but what do you mean "bumping to prepared"?
Sorry if I'm not reading this correctly but what do you mean "bumping to prepared"?
No carbon roofs in SCCA street mod class. But aluminum OEM replacements are kosher. FP/XP would allow carbon roofs which is what he's referring to prepared.
No carbon roofs in SCCA street mod class. But aluminum OEM replacements are kosher. FP/XP would allow carbon roofs which is what he's referring to prepared.
He hit the nail on the head. Essentially I've autocrossed my car since 2008 with various clubs and dabbled in some of the SCCA stuff but was honestly never fully committed. Car was my DD and early on I threw in cams which bumped me to SM right off the bat. Street tires in a class with people oh Hohos just didnt make sense so for a while I was avoiding SCCA and doing local stuff with more open classing.
Now that I have the means to do a more proper SM build I've wanted to do my best to adhere to that ruleset. Technically my car is illegal as I have a JDM rear bumper with a chromoly bumper beam. If I venture out to Lincoln it would probably be wise to pick up an OEM bumper and beam but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Maybe I could just shove 10# of lead flashing like you use on a roof back there on the beam to show good faith. Personally I think its sorta trivial as were talking about the *** end of a painfully nose heavy pig. But rules are rules so gotta draw the line somewhere.
Meanwhile I've been brainstorming splitter ideas. Still trying to visualize how it'll play out but the more I think about it the more I get the feeling solidly mounting it to the bumper, building a frame to mount to the splitter then some vertical support brackets that tie into somewhere around the lower core support and the subframe and using quick latches would be the ticket. But also to that end, I get the feeling that making it one piece so the bumper and splitter come off itogether would be preferred. Otherwise Im not sure there is any way around having to jack the car up and crawl under there.
Yeah the bulk of the weight is in the sunroof assembly. My evo was my DD for 10 years so I have the dumb version. Its funny bc in the end Im going to have an SSL minus the sunroof leather seats and sub...whoops!
If its any consolation I basically converted my car from an MR into an RS haha
Haha thanks bud! At least you dont have to cut off your old roof. I realized over the weekend that if glass removal doesnt go according to plan I might be spending more on glass than the roof even costs...
So anyway been a while since I updated this thread. Made a little bit of progress this past weekend and got the glass out. Talked to a couple automotive glass companies and was told it almost always breaks. I didn't like that answer so decided to do it myself with the help from some buddies. Here's a pic of Turco and myself crushing it! So yeah glass it out and we didnt even break it! Next step is to start drilling out spot welds to finally get that roof off. Slowly chipping away here...
So anyway been a while since I updated this thread. Made a little bit of progress this past weekend and got the glass out. Talked to a couple automotive glass companies and was told it almost always breaks. I didn't like that answer so decided to do it myself with the help from some buddies. Here's a pic of Turco and myself crushing it! So yeah glass it out and we didnt even break it! Next step is to start drilling out spot welds to finally get that roof off. Slowly chipping away here...
Not sure why automotive glass companies think the glass will break. I managed to pull out the rear glass and the front glass with the same harbor freight kit. https://www.harborfreight.com/profes...kit-96339.html
It definitely takes a while to cut through that black stuff. Definitely easier when you have a friend to help you out.
Both windshields already had cracks in the glass but they stayed together so I can send them to a place that cuts polycarbonate to make polycarbonate versions. Just need to find a polycarbonate that doesn't easily scratch when wiped.
I suspect the reason they say it's going to break is because they just don't care. Reality is probably 99 out of 100 removals they are replacing broken glass anyway so it just doesn't matter. Time is money for then when they are probably cranking out 10 a day. The HF kit I used aka the wire method worked quite well, its a sound method however its by no means the fastest and doing it by myself would have been significantly more time consuming.
Good news is its out and safely stowed away in my basement. Breaking the glass was not an option bc evo glass is NLA and I would cry if I had to buy HEAVIER lancer glass lol.
All in all it wasnt that bad and kinda interesting. Just about ready to cut off the roof just a matter of finding some free time. Im feeling confident that will be another job that isn't as bad as I think it might be.
Would def look locally cause McMaster would charge a pretty penny for shipping. Around here we have a few good sources of large plastic sheets like Multi-craft and Tap Plastics.
Jan 9, 2019, 09:59 AM
