Heel2toe's I wanna go fast build
Would be cool if you could get the car on a dyno. Dynojet or reputable mustang dyno (reputable for being accurate and not tampered with lol) would be cool. VD is cool, but very hard to trust the results from.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,690
Likes: 128
From: Massachusetts
Agreed, I would love to strap her onto a dyno but if that happens it'll be in the spring time at the earliest. But yeah to your point VDR is only so good and like I said I attempted last night but given the roads I wasnt surprised to see the numbers were all over the map. if I could find a nice flat open road like I used to have that would be great but near my house I'm limited to on ramps onto highways where any dip bump hill etc makes the chart useless.
There is a Dynojet in NH that I know of that I would probably end up using. Other than that I know of two other dynos in MA both of which are Mustang and both of which questionable as to how they stack up so I'd prefer to just use a Dynojet. But yes completely agree that would be cool indeed.
There is a Dynojet in NH that I know of that I would probably end up using. Other than that I know of two other dynos in MA both of which are Mustang and both of which questionable as to how they stack up so I'd prefer to just use a Dynojet. But yes completely agree that would be cool indeed.
I would like to say a few things. This car is loud, too loud, in so many respects. I can't yell loud enough at wide open for him to hear me to let out of it... we've resorted to me squeezing his arm during pulls if i need him to let out. I try to wear a hoodie so no one seems me riding dirty.
I have zero idea how much power it is making, i mean it's pretty fast but who knows. I honestly never really pay attention to that. If the motor/tune is happy and it feels good that is all that matters. I haven't done any fine tuning on it just enough to make it safe'ish for eric's impulses not to blow it up... again...
We still have a lot of work to do, likely moving to SD in the spring and we'll dial it in further.
And for the record i would rather get it on a mustang dyno.
I have zero idea how much power it is making, i mean it's pretty fast but who knows. I honestly never really pay attention to that. If the motor/tune is happy and it feels good that is all that matters. I haven't done any fine tuning on it just enough to make it safe'ish for eric's impulses not to blow it up... again...
We still have a lot of work to do, likely moving to SD in the spring and we'll dial it in further.
And for the record i would rather get it on a mustang dyno.
You can change the correction factor on any dyno. I too prefer a mustang or superflow over a DJ. But as long as it has a nice PAU and it's not an inertia roll unit you can get pretty accurate, repeatable numbers.
Originally Posted by ayoustin
You can change the correction factor on any dyno. I too prefer a mustang or superflow over a DJ. But as long as it has a nice PAU and it's not an inertia roll unit you can get pretty accurate, repeatable numbers.
Never have issues with repeatable numbers at the dynojet here in Vegas. Meanwhile, one of the shops with a mustang dyno seems to vary the output based on who the tuner is, as similar cars come out of there making vastly different numbers, or even numbers we know don't add up for the setup.
It's mostly in the operator for the results you get being accurate. A former vendor here loved to tout their "MD" numbers, but cars from them would go to a dynojet and put down similar numbers, indicating said MD was calibrated high...
I prefer a mustang dyno for the aspects that it is load bearing and more realistic to real world conditions. If it is a tuning tool you'll want the tool to replicate real world conditions as much as possible. That's all i'm saying. I couldn't care less about numbers, I want to see maximum area under the curve.
^ that.
You can get a DJ with a PAU I just only have experience running superflow dynos as far as legitmate chassis dyno testing goes.
Being able to do steady state load and step testing makes for a much more granular "fine tuned" tune lol.
But pretty much no one in the aftermarket does that, it's more of an OE grade of testing/tuning AKA it's expensive as **** to do.
You can get a DJ with a PAU I just only have experience running superflow dynos as far as legitmate chassis dyno testing goes.
Being able to do steady state load and step testing makes for a much more granular "fine tuned" tune lol.
But pretty much no one in the aftermarket does that, it's more of an OE grade of testing/tuning AKA it's expensive as **** to do.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,690
Likes: 128
From: Massachusetts
OK no more dyno talk for now lol. Im just ecstatic that the car runs and drives bc the way this build went I thought it would never end. Perhaps thats how they go, IDK? Maybe I'll strap her down in the springtime if Im feeling adventurous and bored.
Anyway, realized I may have overlooked a detail in regards to the plumbing of coolant lines for my turbo so hoping one of you smart folks on here can confirm that I have it right or correct me.
Basically with the EFR turbo there are 4 ports for coolant, 2 on each side one on top and one on the bottom. The idea is to have the coolant flow through it so you need to enter on the bottom and exit on the top. I did that fine however I realized that I may have mixed up the feed and return. So my long drawn out question is which is the feed and which is the return? One line is coming off the water pipe that comes from the waterpump and the other line comes from the thermostat housing. My guess is the waterpipe is the return and tstat is the feed but Im not sure and its 50/50. Knowing me I did it backwards. Easy enough fix but would like to confirm whether I have it correct or not. So who here knows!?
Anyway, realized I may have overlooked a detail in regards to the plumbing of coolant lines for my turbo so hoping one of you smart folks on here can confirm that I have it right or correct me.
Basically with the EFR turbo there are 4 ports for coolant, 2 on each side one on top and one on the bottom. The idea is to have the coolant flow through it so you need to enter on the bottom and exit on the top. I did that fine however I realized that I may have mixed up the feed and return. So my long drawn out question is which is the feed and which is the return? One line is coming off the water pipe that comes from the waterpump and the other line comes from the thermostat housing. My guess is the waterpipe is the return and tstat is the feed but Im not sure and its 50/50. Knowing me I did it backwards. Easy enough fix but would like to confirm whether I have it correct or not. So who here knows!?
It doesn't matter. As long as the water flows that's all that matters. As for the fittings on the turbo it doesn't matter if it enters low and exits high or vice versa, as long as the flow is diagonal and they're not both at the top or bottom ports.