Very Clean work Biggie! Most people who experience drivability issues like this end up giving up and just learn to live with them. It looks like you are taking the extra decade of steps to correct them and make it work the way you intended it to.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I think for most people its about getting to that end goal, and the smart thing to do there is just pay a pro to tune for you. For me though, I just gotta know how things are working under the hood, and I really enjoy the DIY this community has enabled with its great contributors.

 

So I have been tuning the maf and It's really surprising to me how much better the car drives now, much better even then before with the HKS cams. It's like a different car in all the off boost areas (haven't moved up to that yet), night and day difference with just how smooth it is. I have to imagine this is the smoothness people talk about when going to SD. The throttle response and power is pretty much better everywhere. I don't know if this is a common technique, but I only came across it in a mrfred post about tuning his FIC2150 injectors here

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ing-notes.html

This passage specifically is the gold.

"As with my FIC1100s, getting best drivability also required tweaking the MAF scaling table. For people running MAF, this table is useful for dialing in closed loop trims, and it's what's needed to make the AFR table match actual AFR in open loop. The name given to this table by someone many years ago suggests that it affects the load calculation, but in fact, it only affects the fuel calculation, so its a very useful tool for tuning AFR. Most people running FIC2150s are running SD, so I'm not sure how useful it would be to tune the MAF scaling table because it provides a similar function to the SD VE tables."

So big thank you to mrfred

I took mrfred's lead and flattened the comp table to make doing small adjustments to the scaling table more straightforward. You can create an excel formula to calculate the (maf scaling*comp) values to change the scaling table to before you flatten out the comp table to make it easy.

Here is where I am at now, logged trims are < +- 1% everywhere up to 250 hertz. I think for everything higher I will need to rely on the wideband readings to dial in the maf instead of the trims.




This other mrfred thread is also a must read

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ptions-18.html

 

My HKS 7460R turbo is dead. After 8Xk miles and 9 years of service its leaking oil from the chra. AFAIK they are basically non-serviceable. I'll be confirming that but not holding my breath.

The turbo started smoking a few weeks back. I tried replacing the drain seals with it in the car, which didn't help. So I just pulled out the turbo and sure enough a bunch of burned oil and gooeyness between the CHRA and the turbine housing.

 

Looks like a job well done. 9 years and that many miles is a fair number of years for a turbo! What turbo are you thinking about getting next?

 

Sounds like it time to test that new MHI 18k.

 

Agreed, If anything I feel pretty lucky I got so much out of it. It's a first Gen too, which had a problem with the WG flapper warping. Every time I have had the turbo off the car I have tested it and still no warping.

No kidding, pretty crazy the timing and all. So far the turbo's I am considering are the MHI 18k and the FP 54 Green BB. The conservative in me wants that cheaper, stealthy, MHI. The nerd side wants that Xona CHRA. Unlike my HKS either would have a nice upgrade path for when I rebuild the motor and feel more comfortable stepping up to a Red.

 

If you go with the Xona BB CHRA, be prepared for the extra steps to get it to not leak oil..

 

Oh damn! I wasn't aware of the issue. I'll def be doing more research before pulling the trigger on anything. Thx for the heads up

 

Oil pressure regulator, valve cover mods for -10 breather lines, etc...

 

Hmmm makes me wonder if I should be looking into excessive blow by. My motor does have ~170k on it and the turbo did start blowing oil from the CHRA.

 

Thinking about it, I'll need to mod the valve cover regardless so I'll probably just get to work on that while I'm considering my options. Also planning to do a compression test later today or tomorrow.

 

Its more likely you wore it out. How's the shaft play?

 

If you're planning on a red in the future then go with whatever is cheaper now. I'm sure neither turbo will disappoint.

 

My plan was to upgrade what ever turbo I get now into a red. Figured I would send it to FP while I'm waiting on my shortblock to be built.

Thinking about it realistically that might only be in a year or so considering.... Maybe I should just get the red and try my hardest not to blow my **** up still a question of bb vs jb though. I'll look into the costs of the upgrade and see what that looks like.