For my own knowledge, is there ever a point where too much grip, too stiff a suspension, will cause knuckles to fail? Or bearings/hubs etc

Now that I've done all this work and see how its all built, it put a little fear in me. I mean your life could literately come down to a few bolts failing for example. But maybe my fears are unfounded. I dont see a lot of people showing control arm failure or knuckle/hub failure.

 

Not with stock parts are parts of equivalent strength. Would take a crash fail.

 

I scored some 5spd shifter cables and a used shifter for 75bucks to my door. The cables are brand new OEM still in packaging. They are 145bucks I think on STM website so it was a good pickup. Got them from an evo group on FB. Just need the shifter base and some connectors I believe and I can do a 5spd swap.

I also got a used oil pan for 75bucks to my door. The fool who I bought it from painted it blue for god knows why... I'll probably remove mine with the pickup and send those to RaceFab. Use this one in the interim just to keep dust and crap from blowing up into the engine while its immobile/vulnerable.

 

Where were you when I had my 5spd stuff? I had literally everything for a swap. Sold it pretty cheap. I'm assuming you have a 6spd now? Are you planning on a high HP build?
As for the oil pan, maybe the guy was a Ford fan? LOL
You will be happy with a modded pan. We did mine and the sucker holds over 6qts! Also I'm not seeing any oil pressure drops with the trap doors (under some surprisingly harsh AutoX conditions). Definitely worth all the trouble.

 

Well I want to do a 5spd to prevent the infamous 4th gear issue with the 6spds. So I can remove the 21k mile 6spd and sell it while its still worth something, and use the money towards the 5sp swap.

Plus I had a long discussion with John regarding which gears to go with, mixing Evo 8, 9, and a JDM 5th maybe.

 

I'd be all over that, if you were local. I swapped to a 5spd for about a week. Hated it LOL. I didn't like the way it shifted, the gearing, or even where the shift lever sat. It sounds like you have the gearing part figured out, though.

Now I keep my eye out for cheap 6spds. I picked up my current one for $400. Can't beat that!

 

Thats what I paid for the used Evo9 5spd I got! Good prices out there to be had if you can wait.

 

On my Evo 8, I went through two 6 speeds (the second being a TRE rebuild) before going to a TRE ultimate ratio 5 spd and I LOVED IT, especially on track.

 

Hows the ultimate ratio? I thought thats for 1/4mile cars or high HP? Prevents having to shift into 5th or something at the drag strip.

 

Worked great for Evo 8. At the time I tracked it on 330whp and before I sold the car it had 410whp.

I believe 4th went to 122 or so at 7600.

EDIT: It was a stage 2 with Evo 9 input and 1st gear. It was this exact transmission I purchased: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...-upgrades.html

I'm looking to do a FD upgrade in my 5spd on my Evo 10 soon as well as the OEM short gearing sucks on track.

 

OE's make billet prototype knuckles from 6061 on a regular basis

 

Yessir, just need to put the parts through their paces and double check and refine. I wish I had the means to get more cars testing my uprights but I'm just an engineer doing this on the side cause I wanted a proper part. So I designed something I wanted and have put about 200 AX runs and 1 track day on them. Found some early issues (steering forces are a ***** on 295 hoosiers), made some upgrades, and have 10 sets on their way.

Knowing what I know now, I would ask anyone trying to may uprights what force they used on the steering arms in modeling. If the number doesn't have 4 digits, then they don't have any F.S. My first set according to FEA would bend around 400lbs. And it did within 3 runs. Next set was 8x stronger and is still perfectly flat.

 

I'll volunteer my car for a set. Street car (not my daily) and couple track days and autocrosses through out the year.

 

How much? i do about half a dozen AX events, 1-2 TA, and 2-4 HPDE (especially if i have an extra reason to get out there lol)
I run 255 R-S3s, so maybe not as much pressure exerted as you would like, for testing.

 

Still trying to nail down how much I'm going to ask for them. I'm not trying to make money necessarily but obviously cant sell it at cost. Originally I was planning for $2000/set which would give me enough to pay back myself for the initial batch cost and cnc after 20sets. Its a pretty long payback though and limits my ability to do the next part (super mega caster control arms!).

I'm trying to justify dropping price to $1750 to move more volume but volume also = work.