An IAT sensor in the UICP or mani is definitely the proper way to do it. For something that won't ever touch a track and just sees the street then using fuel temp would be fine. Fuel temp has little variation so it will reflect ambient temp pretty decently but what's going into your engine is hotter than ambient even after it's been cooled by the intercooler and that delta only increases the longer you beat on the car for.

Seeing as you have already have a pretty solid tune the most involved part of converting to speed density is copying the map over and getting the VE tables dialed in.

 

Well my motor is ready, going to pick it up tomorrow.

Devin @ Boostin essentially advised against MAT however my car now has the provisions for it. Said that you'll have inconsistent fueling due to the ever changing charge temp as measured at the IM...

Also got my STM sealed setup. My research said sealed was the way to go, however I'm a little concerned about polluting the intake tract with oil. Also if the STM kit actually creates a vacuum in the block I'm not clear on...

 

Break in the block and seal the piston rings hard so that you don't have to worry so much about crank case pressure. I recently learned that cylinder hone is like sand paper for your piston rings. Once its worn, it's hard to seat those rings.

Post pics of the completed motor when you can!

 

The old tune is no longer applicable since the entire setup has changed. The old tune is 10yr old ecu flash with MAF. I need to get the car on Tephra's latest version, with SD and I really do want to run the GM MAT/IAT. In addition to deleting all the EGR/FPR Solenoid/EVAP and adding a grimspeed 3port boost solenoid. ANNNDDD disable the Imobilizer. I left the rear O2 intact but also want to run the rear O2 Heater/simulator. If its at all possible I'd like to pass emissions just so I can drive it on the street for break in and testing. If I unserstand the newest Tephra stuff, I will now be using the default Evo 8 ROM instead of the 05 MR Specific one.

I am REALLY needing some help on this

This is also a bit of an issue since I need to get ~1k miles worth of break in on the entirely new drivetrain and clutch before I can get it on the dyno.

So many moving pieces, so much changed at once Once its running, this is basically a brand new car.

 

You can get enough load on the engine to seat the rings while still be nice to your drive train.

 

Everyone has their own preferred method for seating rings. What I've always done (and has worked without issue for me) is high throttle input without getting into boost and lots of engine braking for the first 2-300 miles and light boost for the next 2-300 miles and still lots of engine braking. Avoid constant engine speeds (cruising conditions) as much as you can. Change oil at 25 miles, 100 miles, 500 miles. I usually run a cheap conventional oil for those first couple oil changes as there's no benefit/point to run a synthetic since it's changed out so early. After that, let her eat.

As for the tune stuff most of it is pretty straightforward. There's a lot of basic/starter threads out there that help teach most of it. I'm in the same boat as you, no EGR, EVAP, cats, rear O2, FPR so I just turned off the codes for all those and made sure all ready statuses were set ready. My IL emissions is due in December but since the car is put away until springtime I'll have to wait to find out haha. The Tephra stuff has most of that setup right out of the box anyway I think but it's very easy to change if need be.

I have my GM IAT in the UICP about 6" before the throttle body. I'm actually trying to troubleshoot an issue with it myself. The car runs fine using fuel temp but when I change it over to use the IAT the scaling isn't correct and it won't change the scale so I still need to look into it more. Probably something simple I'm missing.

Anyway glad to see things are moving along quickly for you! Looking forward to seeing the car out at tracks next season.

 

Which can did you get? I didn't realize they've already updated their design to V2. Even the original went through some revisions where they added a second check valve on the line going to the intake (version I have). I'm wondering why they keep switching it up and if any of their lessons learned should be applied to the can I have on my car..

 

Its the STM V2 Sealed Single Port.

The engine is safe and secure in my garage. Barley had enough time to do that. Will grab more pictures once I've got a day off to mess around.

It doesn't look substantially different then when I dropped it off, but its on the inside that counts

 

Had some time to play today. Preparing to drop motor in the car.

Installed flywheel with new bolts, clutch, and mated trans to engine.

Took off intake manifold to help get motor in and Tcase on. Snapped some pics of the port work.

 

No monoloc or fork stop? Brave man haha.

Looks clean as always!

 

I hadnt considered it until your post. Probably a good idea to install a fork stop. I never had an issue with the OE clutch or TOB though and dont plan to drag race or do any NLS, but for ~50bucks its probably a good idea...

 

Peace of mind was my reasoning as well. I love slamming gears so the ~$100 for a fork stop and monoloc is good piece of mind knowing I won't have to drop the trans for something so minor. I bought a Radium stop as it was the cheapest I could find, also a nice quality piece.

 

Its in! TCase and all but still need to put axles and intermediate shafts in.

 

Small update. Intermediate shafts, axles, brakes etc are all on, going to be lots of updates as I do small projects to put the car back together. The engine is sleeping while I wait for all my hotside parts to come back from coating. Happy Thanks Giving everyone!

 

What an amazing project & can understand why you changed the thread title

Maybe after you get this running & broken-in, the newness will wear off. I would be hesitant, stretching this out on the track, just after the build