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Oh man, now you're really making me jealous with that flipped cam housing. I'll never understand why mitsu didn't do it that way from the factory...
Probably because it's not an issue with factory parts. I've never seen a stock Evo have an issue with it. Only cars that usually have issues are cars with tubular manifolds. Even with the FP manifold I'm sure that setup is over kill. Still really cool though.
If someone made a more affordable version I'd get one without second thought. Definitely cleans up the wiring. And yes I agree, everyone I've heard of frying cam sensors was running tubular manifolds but it still wouldn't hurt to get it away from heat.
Got the Catch can buttoned up. Also put a rubber grommet or bushing I had lying around on the fittings going to the IM to keep it from rattling around.The kit comes with AN line and fittings from intake to the can, but i dont see how this can work. The fittings practically touch one another by themselves. So I got AN10 to barb fittings and put a piece of hose inbetween. Everything works great but I dont see how my DV wouldnt pressurize the can/crank case when it lets go of boost. There is no check valve on the intake side... maybe ill VTA the diverter valve.
Also playing around with cel flash on knock. Went for a semi spirited drive for about 30mins. Showed max of 2 counts around 2800 a few times in evoscan. Im not pushing it or anything just light throttle. I set knock thresholds to 2 and 4, after 90 load. No flashes anywhere while crusing around with some boosting on occasion. Car is still only being fed 100 octane. Next I need a boost gauge and AFR next.
with the fan controller hooked up, and these crappy but silent brake pads I can go anywhere. Such a pleasure to drive. Still no issues or leaks knock on wood.
Someone posted pics that STM emailed them for the can to intake lines in another thread. You point the fittings away from each other, and the line wraps around the LICP. Kinda silly IMO. What you did is clean.
Question, ive put a few hundred miles on with catchcan installed. About 550miles total on new motor and drivetrain. Always with 100octane and a splash of 93 once in a pinch. Im not getting any accumulation in it though. According to my logs ive been as high as about 35%tps and reved up as high as maybe 5600rpm. Only ever seeing max of 2 counts of knock.
1. Should I expect oil in catchcan? If not at what point should it be present?
2. Am I ok to push it a little more provided knock is what Ive mentioned? Can i wind it out to 6 or 7k with minimal TPS and boost?
1. You should probably see a bit of oil in the cc but you've probably got the rings mostly seated so from this point on you shouldn't see much. I wouldn't worry about not seeing anything accumulate in the cc. It'll be more present when you start driving on track. After 3 track days and driving to and from the track (~200 track and ~600 street miles) I drained about 3oz of garbage out of my can.
2. Don't worry about knock at all during break in. What you're seeing right now is just noise that the knock sensor is picking up, just be sure the car isn't running crazy lean (like 16:1 +). Yes you're fine to give it more engine speed, be sure to engine brake plenty as well. I usually only do 500 miles for a break in but some people do 1000. Usually the later half of that 1000 has light boost and higher engine speed. Be sure you change your oil as well.
Also, side note, I can't remember if I've mentioned it to you before or not but you should consider getting an E85 tune made for the car. E85 has a much higher latent heat of vaporization than gasoline (of any octane) and will cool the cylinders much more effectively than gasoline (which is why E85 is so resistant to spark knock). Also it's waaay cheaper.
I wouldnt expect anything in the catch can until you start getting some revs and cornering forces. My first few AX runs with the last motor provided quite the smoke show on lift even though I had ~100mi on the motor with progressive loading on accel and decel. But after 5-6 runs it just cleared up and its all clear now.
Solid info thanks guys. I dont have a boost gauge or controller. Spring pressure via turbosmart 22psi actuator. The map Devin provided is a dual map 93 and e85. I havent tried e85 yet or had the tank empty enough for a full fill. But i will. I think a 100octane and an e85 tune would be cool to compare.
ive givin it some boost just based on sound. Mostly just finishing drivetrain breakin, and have to get 3port wired as well as IAT/MAT prior to bringing it in for a tune. Also 1 more complete fuid change.
So after a few retries I finally have the ACD pump wired and plumbed. Bled with mittyvac and key on full throttle to turn on pump. Builds pressure and no leaks so far. Had leaks at the banjo fitting at the tcase. Ended up getting new banjo bolt and crush washers. Wound up making line from 5/16" nicop and used my ridgid double flare tool. Line is in 2 pieces with a union in the middle. Used some heater hose as insulation where there was some contact or chance of abrasion/heat. The line is just roughly secured, still need to drill some holes for line clamps.
Managed to also wire up the grimmspeed 3 port as well as MAT sensor. Just need to pin them still on the ecu side.
oh and shout out to Ayoustin who came over to drink cold beer in the 90 degree temps and helped get Dallas's rear spring perches installed.
Hell yea man! Always a good time wrenching and tossing a few back. Glad the perches worked without issue. July 9th is gonna be here before you know it!
Lol bet youre glad the ACD line is done huh? Looking good! I too ended up using 2 lines with a union. I tried to do it in 1 piece but it jsut wasnt happening. I see you used the Nicop for the whole thing; that's what I should have done bc its so much nicer to work with.
