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Secured the line today. Put some miles on it. Car is effin fun. Its almost comical, the only thing that doesnt work now that Im at the end is my clock hahha. I think im going to leave it as a reminder that this car may blow up at anytime. Not bad considering all the work i put in this thing. Count down until dyno day. May put a bigger fuel pump in, we'll see. Also gauges and harnesses and ill be good for a track day shake down.
I realized today I haven't updated this thread in a while... Car is tuned and I just did a Dyno Day today on a Dyno Jet vs Boostin's Mustang dyno. Thats all the good news. Somewhere in between I dodged a bullet. Little rubber grommet on the Zaklee Clear Cam Cover managed to get into my timing components. Car jumped 2 teeth of timing. Corrected this and did compression test and leak down test and it seems I'm in the clear. Also today it made some power on the Dyno so I'm confident the engine is healthy.
I actually found 1 other thread where this happened to a guy. I didn't even think something like this could happen, cam cover was the last thing I was concerned about... This is a manufacturing defect in my opinion because this rubber piece is just glued to the cover. Pretty crappy...
Picks of the averted disaster then I'll share the Dyno videos/charts. This mother ****er almost ruined me. Wear on the belt from rubbing cam cover. Scuff on inside of cam cover from belt. ~2 teeth off ~2 teeth off Crank at TDC
At Boostin we started tuning the car on 100 Octane. Had planned for 100 and E85 maps. We instead went with E85 for both maps, high boost was 30 low boost 25.
Went well and Devin had the car on the dyno most of the day. The car tested with no boost leaks which I was pleased with. The only things Boostin did was crush the BOV and put a spring on the dipstick(it blew out on the dyno). Its my belief that when the DV lets go into the intake its pressurizing the catch can and crank case. I think I'll be going VTA and closing the hole on the intake and see how it goes. I also had the EBC wired into the wrong pin on the connector so we had to fix that.
The pulls were made in 3rd gear, it was effing hot. Mid to upder 90s that day.
Today I decided to go to a local Dyno Day at P&L Motorsports. The owner Paul is an old friend from High school and I was among his first customers back in the day when he was working out of his moms garage. Anyway they have a DynoJet so I was curious to compare to my results at Boostin.
My other fried came, he has the 2017(Not sure if 2016 or 17) M3 Competition package. It put down 440 in bone stock form on 93. I didnt get a chance to "play" with him on the street at all, but I made 423 so we're close in power. But my car is much lighter and his is stick so I think I'd be faster
These pulls were made in 4th gear and it was also pretty hot today, mid 80s.
Thanks for reading! Hard to believe how long I've had this thread going. I'll keep coming back here as I continue my exploits with the car. Need still to get some gauges, harnesses, a cage, and a splitter. Then I'll be ready for some track day fun.
Also I went in on a group buy and at some point in the near future should have a set of 2" correction drop spindles/uprights from Dallas and Evo X brakes installed.
Nice update and also damn that is scary about that lil rubber piece. I think Ill pull mine off and check to make sure that is epoxied on there good as that would be an unfortunate way to kill the motor.
Was the 420whp DJ figure on 30# or 25?
And what have you done to releave CC pressure? Im not so sure about your theory of pressuring the can which is causing the dipstick to blow out. May be some truth to that, Im by no means an expert, lol but Im curious if what you are seeing is the typical evo crankcase pressure issue that starts becoming apparent with more boost and built motors. Personally I blew out my dipstick a few years ago on my BBK Full at around 30#. I opened up the side vent to 5/8NPT and ran a -10AN line to my can and never had dipstick issues again.
It was on the 30 psi tune. I managed to get an evoscan log of all 3 pulls. 7 total counts of knock in 3, 4th gear pulls in 85degree heat. Highest single event was a count of 2, the rest were single counts in various places. Not bad for a kill tune.
I have the STM sealed catch can. The line to the intake pipe did not come with a check valve so any positive pressure is entering the can.
It was on the 30 psi tune. I managed to get an evoscan log of all 3 pulls. 7 total counts of knock in 3, 4th gear pulls in 85degree heat. Highest single event was a count of 2, the rest were single counts in various places. Not bad for a kill tune.
I have the STM sealed catch can. The line to the intake pipe did not come with a check valve so any positive pressure is entering the can.
That knock is nothing to be worried about.
As for your dipstick issue it's because the crankcase isn't being ventilated well enough. The only time you need a check valve for your crankcase is when you have lines on the intake manifold or post turbo because the post compressor pressure will make its way to the crankcase. Pressure will always take the path of least resistance. There is less resistance for the pressurized air charge coming out of the bypass valve to go into the inlet of the turbo which is pulling a strong vacuum (negative pressure) versus going to the crankcase which is usually 1-2psi if ventilated properly or 3-5psi if not vented properly. When you're in boost the PCV valve (just a check valve with a certain crack pressure) that's between the valve cover and the intake manifold is closed. That means all of the pressure in the crankcase must go out of the pin sized hole in the side of the valve cover when it's being pressurized most.
I had the same issue last year, drilled out the side port on the valve cover to a 1/2" and haven't had an issue since. I've got the drill bit and tap to do it so if you wanna borrow them just let me know.
Nice update and also damn that is scary about that lil rubber piece. I think Ill pull mine off and check to make sure that is epoxied on there good as that would be an unfortunate way to kill the motor.
yep another project for me as well. Can't have the new engine have problems....
^^ sorry for the derail. Got around to the above today and when I took the Zaklee off to check that rubber piece it came off with no effort at all. Mine is somewhere between 8 to 9 years old. So can't hate on that life at all but others should check their's as well if they are old.
