Its too hard on jackstands with the motor and everything in the car. I procrastinated while it had no drivetrain and it bit me in the ***.

 

Hmm, well if you feel like doing it yourself I can walk you through how I did mine on jack-stands. It basically starts with using the Evap line which is the same size as the standard ACD line. I also have the nice Rigid AN flare tool you could certainly borrow. Though I can also appreciate you just wanting it done.

 

Yeah i tried that route a while back but it didnt pan out. Ive got the ridgid flare tool which is awesome btw. Ended up deleting evap line all together. Have nicop line and earls AN hardware/line for Eric to install.
but many thanks for the offer!

 

Cool man, Im sure it'll end up great either way. Relocation to the rear is super nice for getting off the worst part of the car and cleaning up the area in front of the tire.

 

Another photo before I go to bed. Im pretty stoked that this car lives in MY garage. I never thought Id take this so far and the fun is just begining.

 

Coming along nicely. Let me know when you get your gauges figured out and I'll get you a panel cut for the dash. Also I think I'm going to cut out a couple splitters next week or the week after if you still want one.

 

What's your compression ratio?

 

9.1 to 1

 

I've never seen 9.1 before. Did you choose that?

 

I think it was the default when I had my engine built. Kinda regretting not going to like 10 to 1.

 

for me here in California, I think I will stick to 9.5 so my car can run 91 pisstane gas.
You really went all out on your build.
Why didn't you start with FP Green? I think the HTA 71 will run out of breath with our heads.

 

I may go that route down the road. But ill probably need a higher rated clutch too. Originally I planned to try and get into NASA TT which has HP limits so i aimed low.

 

The HTA71 will be fine for a low output track car, it will carry a very nice curve to 8k rpm's at less than 400whp. No reason to go with a laggier green.

 

When is your retune? I'm curious of what boost this turbo will hit with a ported head. I'm guessing it may spike up to 28 psi around 4000 and taper down to 24 psi at redline (even with the TS WGA). Turbo should be more efficient since head has less restriction. Can't wait!

 

Is there a way to tell if we are over spinning our turbo?