So I got the LC1 with XD16 to work great. Got my car initially tuned at turbo trix in NJ and am pumping out 330hp 340tq.

I have all the cables you listed, and am ready for fine tuning and logging.

I'm having one small problem though, reading through your thread, everything just sinks right in, but when I open the program... for some reason... I cannot find where to log Knock... I'm dying to know if my engine is knocking through the pulls, I want to minimize the knock.

Also, turbo trix entered 650 in the injector size for my 750 injectors... is this bad? should I tune accordingly? and re-do the injector load and map?

I put that punchy mi-vec map that you posted ontop of the turbo trix tune, and yes, it is noticably punchier in the low end! My idle is crap, but it isn't cause of their tune, or the mivec flash. Ever since I put all the parts on... and i slam the hood shut while the car is idling, it almost stalls out, and it has a weak idle. Any ideas? anything I can do from tuning to correct it? I tried raising the idle in ecuflash modestly, but no difference.

thanks for all of your informative help!

 

I you have the tactrix cable you need to run the openport1.3 plug-in to log the ECU with Logworks.

Or use evoscan, but using the LC-1 is hit or miss for some.

 

The injector scaling should be fine. Its a little lower than I normally see for 750's though. The reason the car freaks out when you slam the hood is because of your Mass airflow sensor seeing the instant change in air pressure, its normal. Its more noticeable with a car with cams, big injectors and a lopey idle.

 

Yeah, i have the evo specific tactrix usb cable. the openport 1.3 is installed, I see it under USB devices, as well as com port. which option do i enable in evoscan to log the knock? is it knocksum?

Funny u mention that. As soon as i tap the MAF with my hand gently, i hear the idle fight it's way back up. How can I get rid of the MAF? I heard there is a way with ecu tuning?

 

In Evoscan just select Knocksum

To use openport and LW: connect tactrix and LC-1 Serial cable. Start engine and Launch Openport plugin, once it establishes a connection select MUTII, it will give you a menu for Items to log, select knocksum..etc. Hit Start. After the openport is up and running Launch Logworks, establish a connection and start logging.

 

hey guys, now that I am finally getting around to tuning my car (instead of coding for a change) I find myself asking some pretty basic questions, ie:

I see a lot of people say run less timing + more boost, however this doesn't make sense to me, because if you run more boost you will be getting higher loads which of course you can dial the timing back a bit in.

So really you can set your boost controller to run whatever boost you want and the ECU will just give you the timing for that load... am I wrong?

Cheers
D.

 

correct. Go easy on the boost and timing...take baby steps and see where she gets uncomfortable. Different cars react differently. My car on or off meth doesn't really like timing and reacts better with less timing and more aggressive fueling. Some cars love timing and can tolerate it...different setups.

Back to what you're saying. If you run 25psi with basic mods. Intake, exhaust, boost controller. Then you're limited to the amount of timing unless you throw in race gas.. My belief is to tune with fuel first to a certain air to fuel. Add timing from that point till you experience knock. Then back off.

 

Thats how I do it as well. If you want a very thorough map, tune at stock boost so you hit all of the cells for low boost, then increase boost just enough to jump up to the next row of cells. Continue this as far as you want to go. This way, no matter what boost level you set the MBC for, you're tuned for it. This is very helpful in winters where MBC's tend to fluctuate from the cold weather affecting the spring rate. Once you dial in the map from low boost to high boost, it wouldn't hurt to do a few runs at each boost level again to make sure it still does a clean run, regardless of which cells it goes thru. This takes time but its a VERY thorough map setting.

Some people that run alky kits which uses a safety feature to lower boost to the minumum setting will start their tuning there (12psi I think with the stock wastegate). Just because you have the car jump to a lower boost level doesn't mean you need to have the car be a complete DOG when the safety feature kicks in

 

Last thing I want to do is be running my car @ 12psi because my failsafe kicked in. I personally wouldn't waste my time tuning at 12/14psi.

 

You would if you realized your car was knocking like MAD when your failsafe kicked in because your 12psi cells were WAYYY off.

 

I don't continue to step on it like i assume you do or would do? When the failsafe kicks in, my foot comes off the gas pedal for a second. I then cruise till I can get to my laptop. 99% of the time the failsafe activation is methanol related

 

dont forget that what actually makes power is the energy in the expanding volume of air/fuel. the more you have of air/fuel, the more energy potential you have. All timing does is light it off at the correct time for optimal burn. Changing timing doesnt actually increase the amount of energy the mixture makes, it just changes how much of that energy is transferred into the crankshaft. What you are then required to find is two things: how much volume your engine can happily take(how much boost to run) and the point at which it needs to be lit(timing). this is where individual cars vary due to a number of reasons.


cliff notes: too much timing advance or retard just screws up the fuel burn, its all about how much you can jam in the engine before bad things happen

 

This is awesome thread

 

Anyone would obviously let off the gas soon since the car falls flat on its face but possibly having a knock count of 30 for more than a few seconds can be a bad,bad thing lol. It never hurts to waver on the side of caution. Its about 10 minutes worth of rough tuning. A lot of alky failsafes that trigger the low boost setting due so when the low level float is triggered. Some guys may not have the time or cash to refill their reservoir immediately so they run the risk of hitting 12psi more than a few seconds during their trips until they refill the alky reservoir. Say someone is climbing a steep hill and needs to pass someone, it wouldn't take much for the car to shoot from 1psi to 12. All I'm saying is it can't hurt any, it can only help

 

I see what you're saying, but it still doesn't apply to me. At 12/14psi..the fuel is in the 10's. If i step on it again and the failsafe kicks in...I stop aggressive driving.
Now, thanks to Tephra there is a map switching option that I have tested. You are able to switch stock maps on the fly at the push of a button. I have a 22psi map that I switch to. Only downside is that I have a MBc. So I have to turn the knob a certain amount of clicks to hit 22psi.