I'd prefer if we as a team leave the "coulda-woulda-shoulda's" for the other guys.

Making 530 whp on a stock appearing turbo on our dyno here in ANY weather condition is freaking flat out amazing. I honestly don't think we ever need to go down that "coulda" road.

 

I've already started in getting this thing going on my car, just waiting for a phone call.

 

9sec9, I'm curious why you chose the stock valve sizes then and went with them again...I figure you've got a theory behind that choice at least. I placed an order for a BR stage 3 head recently and I'm always open to suggestion.

 

so when do you think your gonna get a run on that thing to get a time???? good luck to all on breaking into the 9's...

9sec9 will you be at the shootout with this beast?

STevo

 

Remember some of your flow rate calculations include the power regained by the electric water pump. It hasnt been dyno'd specifically by itself but its in the neighborhood of 10-15whp most likely.

 

That's why he was estimated at 12 HP per lb/min minus dyno loss instead of 10 to 11- oxygenated fuel, drivetrain work, and other items that show gains on a chassis dyno vs. an engine dyno.

 

I'm a bit confused... the White Rabbit uses a Green compressor wheel and the Green uses something else? Why is the White Rabbit wheel called a Green wheel if the Green doesn't use it?

 

At this power level, almost certainly. Still, this turbo looks like a strong performer!

David, any chance you could post some dyno plots of the turbo on trent's car, along with some specifics? Pretty please?

 

"White Rabbit" is not the same as the new "White" why in the world they chose that name is beyond me...let the chaos continue

 

Since there has been some posting lately of FMIC air temps and how a particular product works, I thought it would be good to post a log from the car yesterday.

We were dealing with very hot/humid conditions. The datalog screen shot I am going to post is the final run on the car after 3 consecutive runs, all done in 23 minutes. We had one small squirrel cage fan on the car.

I have highlighted the peak boost and the air temp/water temp/mph etc at that point for reference.

Here's the screen shot with further explaination below it.



Starting RPM 2508
Starting Air temp 100.4
Starting coolant temp 156.2
Starting vehicle speed 28.85
Starting boost .23

Peak boost 38.88

Ending RPM 8355
Ending Air temp 104
Ending coolant temp 158
Ending vehicle speed 96.20
Ending boost 26.88

Overview, Coolant temp with NO engine fan running only rose 1.8 degrees.
Air temp with one small fan only rose 3.6 degrees.

The air temp sensor is located in the upper i/c pipe about 10" before the inlet to the throttle body.

The radiator is a super impressive part too. Indy is actually going to be working on making our small radiator kit in this same design. This should allow for a radiator half the size of stock with cooling capabilities much greater than the stock radiator. When the new radiator is finished I will offer the radiator and electric pump as a DIY kit that bolts into the car.

Good information and good reference with me providing an actual screen shot.

 

Chris, the decision was actually not quite so calculated as some of the others. The head was in excellent condition, other than the exhaust valves leaking due to some unknown buildup on the seats. A real quick light touchup and they were good to go. I have a fully built stage 3 motor with stage 3 head and everything also sitting here. It has larger valves in it, but we decided to keep it in one piece and just go with what we had. I also still think that the stock valves are fine for up to 65 lb turbo's, give or take a little. Just my hunch, nothing very scientific.

 

Intake Valve = (( RPM * CID ) / ( # of Cylinders * Avg port velocity * 282.7433388 )) ^.5

then convert to equivalent area/2 for a 4 valve

 

gotcha, thanks for the feedback.

on another note, I bought the green a long time ago and was disappointed in the minor pump gas power gains (I rarely ever run race gas). I suspect the red will make a more significant difference with that larger turbine.

I constantly get asked by customers for my thoughts on the green vs 35r since I've had both and it would be nice to have a turbo that fell in the middle as far as pump gas power that bolts right on.

 

I've really been thinking about picking up your Race FMIC, would I need any special piping configurations to mate it with an AMS 37r turbo kit? This information pushes my desire for it even more.

Consider me sold on this, you release it I AM buying this. Would AN lines be an option? I know I would need my theromstat housing welded to attach an AN fitting.

 

What about the fp4rs?