Utah Evos
And that isn't necessarily true, in the case of Jeremy's car it had enough horsepower that the throttle was GREAT for correcting understeer and induced a perfect amount of oversteer, especially for turn 5. But the main key is indeed to avoid understeer by whatever means, not only does it ruin your tires but it either forces you to slow down (when, had you been going the proper speed you'd likely be speeding up at that point in the Evo) or it means you're horribly off line and trying to force the car to do something you shouldn't...
The Evo is a train, stay on the rails and you'll haul, but if you stray all you'll hear is grinding and slow down a whole lot. Remember too that it isn't a lite car by any means, so with the really tight corners (namely the last one on the west track) you have to slow down, a lot, I was trying it without slowing down nearly as much as I do now and Ray pointed out that Dennis was gaining on me AFTER the corner in the Exige, once I slowed down he'd gain on me like crazy going in but be left in the dust going out and I gained 15 mph at the end of the straight afterwords.
Or buy some slicks, then it does pretty much everything you tell it too
Over driving is the Evo's forte...
And that isn't necessarily true, in the case of Jeremy's car it had enough horsepower that the throttle was GREAT for correcting understeer and induced a perfect amount of oversteer, especially for turn 5. But the main key is indeed to avoid understeer by whatever means, not only does it ruin your tires but it either forces you to slow down (when, had you been going the proper speed you'd likely be speeding up at that point in the Evo) or it means you're horribly off line and trying to force the car to do something you shouldn't...
The Evo is a train, stay on the rails and you'll haul, but if you stray all you'll hear is grinding and slow down a whole lot. Remember too that it isn't a lite car by any means, so with the really tight corners (namely the last one on the west track) you have to slow down, a lot, I was trying it without slowing down nearly as much as I do now and Ray pointed out that Dennis was gaining on me AFTER the corner in the Exige, once I slowed down he'd gain on me like crazy going in but be left in the dust going out and I gained 15 mph at the end of the straight afterwords.
Or buy some slicks, then it does pretty much everything you tell it too
And that isn't necessarily true, in the case of Jeremy's car it had enough horsepower that the throttle was GREAT for correcting understeer and induced a perfect amount of oversteer, especially for turn 5. But the main key is indeed to avoid understeer by whatever means, not only does it ruin your tires but it either forces you to slow down (when, had you been going the proper speed you'd likely be speeding up at that point in the Evo) or it means you're horribly off line and trying to force the car to do something you shouldn't...
The Evo is a train, stay on the rails and you'll haul, but if you stray all you'll hear is grinding and slow down a whole lot. Remember too that it isn't a lite car by any means, so with the really tight corners (namely the last one on the west track) you have to slow down, a lot, I was trying it without slowing down nearly as much as I do now and Ray pointed out that Dennis was gaining on me AFTER the corner in the Exige, once I slowed down he'd gain on me like crazy going in but be left in the dust going out and I gained 15 mph at the end of the straight afterwords.
Or buy some slicks, then it does pretty much everything you tell it too

One is tighten up the front significantly until it starts to understeer, then tighten up the rear until it starts to slide.
The other theory says watch the body roll rates until something starts to slide and then try everything else (front splitters etc) to increase the front end grip while keeping only enough oversteer to maintain optimum yaw angle. Basically do not loosen up the rear intentionally.
Which idea seems more of what you have?
Thanks,
~j.
That'd be something to ask sir snake actually, Ray was the one that did the set-up, so I'm not sure how he came across how it is set-up. My recommendation (and it may not be a great one) is to get set-up advice from someone who has a good set-up with the same suspension you will use, just like we did with the Koni's on the S2k. Or even to have someone who has had lots of experience set it up, Robi, Mueller, Vesko, Ray, etc... Like I said, may not be the best, but it's what I'd do since suspension is what I know least about.
But the obvious answer, for the money, is the first way you said to do it...
Then you aren't buying front splitters and all that other jazz.
But the obvious answer, for the money, is the first way you said to do it...
Then you aren't buying front splitters and all that other jazz.
i dont know if anyone is interested, but i have a 03 evo for sale. its black, in great shape and has 33,000 miles on it.
mods:
perrin downpipe
high flow cat
hks carbon ti exhaust
burshur upper hard pipe
burshur intake
greddy profec e-01
apexi boost gauge
apexi turbo timer
hks blow off valve
jdm tail lights
mr head lights
tanabe gf210 springs
i would like 21,500 for it obo i dont have any recent pics on my computer at this time so if you would like pics email me at boosted_rx7_rx8@hotmail.com and i will get some. thanks
mods:
perrin downpipe
high flow cat
hks carbon ti exhaust
burshur upper hard pipe
burshur intake
greddy profec e-01
apexi boost gauge
apexi turbo timer
hks blow off valve
jdm tail lights
mr head lights
tanabe gf210 springs
i would like 21,500 for it obo i dont have any recent pics on my computer at this time so if you would like pics email me at boosted_rx7_rx8@hotmail.com and i will get some. thanks
Hey Evobeatsti, I have a tactix cable I got from Al when he was here and I don't think I will be using his services anymore or trying to do my own tuning, so you can buy mine if you want. Brand new, never used. I'll sell it to you for what he charged me, $95
No worries, are you going to back at the track this year? I love the PS3 been playing GT HD all the time thanks for the hook up!
I agree with Mike and Jake how you set up your car and how well you drive it will greatly effect how your equipment (tires and brakes) ware. I run on Advan AO48's on the track and love them. One day I'll up the game to the full slicks like Jake.
That'd be something to ask sir snake actually, Ray was the one that did the set-up, so I'm not sure how he came across how it is set-up. My recommendation (and it may not be a great one) is to get set-up advice from someone who has a good set-up with the same suspension you will use, just like we did with the Koni's on the S2k. Or even to have someone who has had lots of experience set it up, Robi, Mueller, Vesko, Ray, etc... Like I said, may not be the best, but it's what I'd do since suspension is what I know least about.
But the obvious answer, for the money, is the first way you said to do it...
Then you aren't buying front splitters and all that other jazz.
But the obvious answer, for the money, is the first way you said to do it...
Then you aren't buying front splitters and all that other jazz.
This is all getting pretty confusing, but good to have some fresh insight nonetheless from both of you two, er three, er two on each other's computers?During our discussion it seemed that the premise behind a lot of Paul Gerrard's ideas seemed to be not to fully eliminate body roll on the EVO, but rather precisely control it. So I've already thrown the shoe out, body roll. That's probably the most visual thing a suspension tuner would see on the EVO going around the track, or cones.

Those who seek to cancel it out all together seek to practically stiffen the front significantly until the front starts to lose traction, using that point as a marker of total front end grip. The EVO does gain quite a bit on the asphalt track due to this, but almost entirely loses its street going (ie large bump) ability.
After mapping the chassis and suspension as part of a personal and academic project, Paul found that the EVO engineers had made quite a few design tradeoffs when engineering the suspension. One prominent was that the rear suspension under compression actually goes into a toe out (let's see if I say this right) mode making it easier to get the rear to oversteer without the use of large (stiff) anti-sway bars. To put this in perspective, probably over 95% of the cars out there DO NOT have this toe out movement in order to induce controllable oversteer. Safety says you want to induce understeer, keep the back end tucked in. Paul took the approach of controlling the oversteer and making it easy to get driver interaction to use that oversteer. Predictable and controllable oversteer = good, unpredictable (snap) oversteer = bad.
Some other points. The EVO was first built as a rally car, which means its suspension needs to articulate. Fundamentally dropping the EVO, and/or raising the spring rates substantially detracts from the balance of the car, and hence its capability.
Another interesting point was this perception behind lifting an inside rear tire during hard cornering. Large rear bars do this, and what he found is if the inside tires could be made to compliment the total grip factor of the car, it was much easier to drive and control around a corner.
The EVO benefits from a very large yaw angle, as supported by some of Jake's experience and comments.
Because the EVO is a front heavy car it can put quite a bit of traction on the front if commanded to do so properly. Therefore Paul's ultimate goal was to have an EVO produced a ton of front end grip and actually oversteered properly, which means the oversteer can be manipulated slowly and predictably by the driver. This is just another way of saying oversteer on the EVO is not necessarily bad.So what became of his suspension work? Ohlins Road and Track coilovers with new valving, put onto 450lb./550lb. springs, and a few choice bushing changes for typically a street / light track setup. Heavier springs seem to be the choice of getting the car in a competitive track setup, but if I remember correctly these did not typically exceed 600lb springs.
As I'm an extreme noob when it comes to driving, Paul tried to get me to feel comfortable that his suspension work would not surprise me on an oversteer situation. He fully recognized that controlling oversteer is a hard learned trait. He guaranteed that the Ohlins valving actually had a slower and more predictable oversteer situation than the stock suspension, but obviously I would want to work up my knowledge of controlling it on the track.
Then after that 40min. grill session, we started to talk about bikes and Zen, but ya'll probably get bored with that so I'll cut it off here.
Anyways, if anybody is still curious, toss up some comments.

Cheers,
~j.
Last edited by jcnel_evo8; Feb 18, 2007 at 08:44 AM.


