ya i heard the ra-1's were bad autox tires thats why i picked up some v710's for my autoxing needs but i am still looking for a good summer/track tire that will last me for at least 5000 miles. i am leaning towart the falken azenis since they are so cheap wjat do you guys think i should do?

 

The azenis are good street tires, but you will not get 5000 miles out of any dedicated road race tire. The azenis wear faster on the track than R-compounds in my experience. My suggestion would be to have a set of street tires, and a seperate set of road race tires. You can get tires for both autox and road racing, but the v710's are not it. They will be okay on mild temperature days, but if you run them in june or july, they will self-destruct due to excess heat.

Some peeps like the nitto nt-01. They are cheap, but i have not ran them.

 

My experience with the Kumho 710s is that they tolerate the heat much better than shaved RA1s. I've never had a set of 710s get greasy on track from too much heat. 710s do not last as long as RA1s, but they last longer and have similar performance to Hoosiers.

 

So I got frauded by a fellow evom member. He said he was selling some jdm mr tail lights and sent me pictures n numerous emails and if I would have noticed in the pictures that there was glue all around the edges and a **** of a job with finger prints on the inside of the tail lights of course I wouldnt have purchased them.

I'm pretty pissed he says no refunds, I dont want tail lights. I gave him bad rep here and contacted paypal and will try to go to the bank and see if they can do a charge back. He even changed his post here on evom to

Jdm mr tail lights (painted)

What a son of a bish

I'm pissed off and what an embarrassment of a job he attempted to do and then have the ***** to try to sell em to me as jdm mr tails. When I opened up the box I was like

 

Tolerate the heat? Nope. I killed a set in one day, so did two other evo owners. Didn't jake blister up a set too? That never happened on my RA-1s, they would take whatever i could give them, they just aren't as grippy.

 

haha, what happen to the, "I wont be modding this car." Looks like I am the only stock evo left...

 

The ones I blistered were tolerating an amount of heat the RA-1s would of made me slide off the track with... That was the first day with my Hawk pads that are ultra grippy, they blistered from the braking I almost guarentee it. If you're not CRAZY around the track, the V710s will work just fine, especially if you only track a little but autocross a lot. My first set lasted a very decent number of track days and were MUCH more confidence inspiring than the RA-1s.

 

well, now i'm not sure what i want to do b.

found out that my inlet manifold sensor (it's the 1 bar MAP sensor reads boost for EGR and other ECU functions), was what was causing the EGR flow code and the CEL. the dealer just fixed that for me a few hours ago and i picked up the car and it feels like a whole different animal. seriously, it is so much faster now and smoother to drive.

so, i know I want to do a drop-in filter 100% for sure. the stock paper filters are t3h gay. i'm 90% sure I want to do I also want to do a catback exhaust, and in talking with Ficker today I'm considering doing a DP and test pipe and MBC.

For the track, I have to get some new tires (and probably wheels) since my tires are shot from stupid Mitsubishi not re-aligning the car and fixing the toe after they replaced the transmission before I bought it, so my almost new tires (10k miles) are about done for. So i'll get some good all season, long life street tires for the stock wheels, and then i'm thinking some race wheels in gold in 18x9 or 18x9.5 sizing with 275/30/18 tires. But then if I get wheels and race tires, I will have to do suspension as well so as to maximize their effectiveness.

I know what it is like to drive a stock car at the track and I definitely had fun in my ITR, but I was definitely driving the car beyond its potential (you remember the sweet lift off oversteer in the sharp corners). I think I may cave to the pressure that DTCEVO is putting on me and go with some nice coilovers and corner balancing.

 

No worries, I want to mod my car too, but I am not sure what I want yet, so stock she stays for now. I for sure want to get some more rides in all your guy's cars after you get all this work done though. Sounds like there is going to be some good competition this year.

 

In my experience 710s tolerate the heat much better than RA1s. The 710s are sensitive to proper alignment and don't tolerate abuse like the RA1s. I went through a 710 on my front passenger side in one day. Reason was my bushings were bad and that side just wouldn't hold the alignment.

Over driving the fronts in FWD or AWD car (mashing on the throttle to get the car to go where you want) will chew threw a set of 710s faster than RA1s

The 710s have much more grip than the RA1s, but that grip is at slip angle that the RA1s just don't seem to tolerate. Hoosiers, Kumho 710s get grippier (like race slicks) with slip angle, while the RA1s just seem to get greasy and overheat.

I went with 710s last season based on a recommendation from an S2000 friend who is a national SCCA b-stock champion and now drives in grand am. It's an excellent tire for both auto-x and track. 7 to 10 events on a set of 710s versus 10 to 12 on RA1s. I got a used set of 710s from him (I just paid for shipping). They had 2 events on them and I got another 9 events out of them! That's as good a wear as I ever had with RA1s.

Jake and I both went to 18 inch wheels this season so we can run take off slicks ... better grip, longer life and lower cost!

My car is scheduled to be done 5-Mar. Hopefully we can get out on track in Mar!

 

Hmmm ... sounds like the 710s will reward the driver on a well setup system (ie. good alignment et al.) You're speaking from a S2k standpoint Mike but how easy, in your opinion, is it to rotate the EVO up to an optimum yaw angle and get good grip out of a set of 710s on the EVO?

Cheers,

~j.

 

Selling my Integra.

Here

 

Over driving is my forte, so perhaps that was my problem. The rears that day were actually fine, i just wrecked the fronts. But i didn't drive any different than i had on the previous set, and they lasted a lot longer, but in cooler weather. That day was hot, and so i just attributed their demise to the heat.

Picked up my new A048's today (thanks Discount Tire in Riverton). They are sick. Hopefully I can get them to last as long as Munoa has.

 

Do your fronts tend to get worn on the outer 2 to 3 inches of tread on track? That's usually a pretty good sign that you're overdriving the fronts. For example, you get into a turn ... car starts to understeer a little bit and rather than easying off the steering you get on the throttle. That's what I mean by mashing it. If you've seen that kind of wear on track, then you're likely not going to do well with 710s. Even with RA1s, you'll be faster if you don't overdrive the fronts.

No issue getting the Evo to a good slip angle. Key with AWD or FWD in my opinion is to focus on keeping the car balanced and avoiding the throttle as a response to understeer.

Whether you run RA1s or something else, remember to swap front and rears to prolong tire life. I'll finally be able to do that with my car now that I've gone to a non-staggered setup.

 

how much are you selling that car for one of my friends in looking for a new car... is it street drivable???