No prob. Just found it odd that no one picked up on it.

 

So has somebody found a way to get this to pass inspection while eliminating the rear 02? I'm so confused with all this electronic talk, it's like french to me.

 

In simple steps:

1. wire in a 50ohm 10W resistor into the rear O2 heater circuit to prevent the heater circuit test from throwing a code (or, as Zeitronix suggested, two 22ohm 5W resistors in series)
2. patch in mrfred's code fix for the sensor test (or just use tephra's ROMs)
3. drive around for a while
4. go get tested, pass, go home, have a beverage

I'm not sure what else there is to say. The interesting discussion to me, really, is being able to eliminate step 1 with step 2.

And, if you still have the rear O2 sensor physically wired in (and are just getting a code because of a test pipe), then you can skip all this talk of electronics, and proceed to step 2.

 

I've learned a bit more about how to examine these routines. I might be able to figure this out. Got a few other things going first (namely improve my mpg!).

 

Ok, I switched to the 2x 50-ohm 10 watt resistors in a $3 project box from radio shack and it works like a charm! I need to keep an eye on how hot it is because I was only able to get a plastic box with a metal lid.

 

Well, as MrFred just pointed out (multiple times apparently,lol) The ECU needs to see between a 1.1 ohm to 80 ohm load to prevent throwing a CEL. The only reason I've ever suggested running 2 50 ohm reisitors in parallel at a 25 ohm load is because on some cars (namely older DSM's) this low of a resistance was required to keep the CEL from coming on. Ideally, you want the highest resistance you can use without throwing a CEL (as close to 80 ohms without going higher) to keep the dissipated heat to a minimum.

Here's the best idea:


This will radiate 66% less heat than (2) 50 ohm resistors in parallel at a 25 ohm load and 33% less heat than a single 50 ohm resistor.
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see jaime! this is exactly why i my made the posts, cause people in here don't have time to learn electronics, and also don't bother reading.

one more time...

 

I feel bad for ever suggesting it before since the ECU will allow up to an 80 ohm load, which isn't the case with my old DSMs. A 50 ohm would trigger a CEL every time on my DSM's.

Now, if we can only get the OP (PD1) to update his first post regarding the 10K ohm resistor to state it must be between 1.1 to 80 ohms to avoid the CEL.

 

well that's probably the real problem... the OP posted the wrong resistor value. - and still hasn't corrected it. i mean who really wants to read all these posts?

 

I was just PM'ing him the other day, I just PM'd him again to get him to update it.

 

Freaking sweet! BUT, I'm sick of taking my shiz apart, so question. What could we put in that generates next to zero heat? Even if it was a little bulkier, I'd be fine with it knowing my car isn't gonna go up in flames....

How about 6 50-ohm 10 watt resistors in 3x2 in parallel?

 

with regards to the heat you could try attaching a small heatsink on the resistor to help dissipate the heat.

 

What I originally posted worked just fine for me and many many other people, so I'm not sure it's "wrong."

However, I've updated the original post to include the most recent suggestions.

AOK?

 

well according to the ecu code, and basic electronics - the current is way way off the mark?

i have no idea how it worked for anyone, because it surely doesn't work for me, or all of the people that already posted in this thread that it doesn't work.
can anyone on here confirm that your setup works for them more than 15 minutes? all i can think of is that older roms may be more lax with the bounds.

thanks for adding to the post.

 

It worked just fine on my IX SE with version 15 ROM for months, so I don't know what to tell you. The resistor didn't get hot, and the CEL never came on. I wouldn't post it if it didn't work.