PATCH: NLTS + Valet + KnockCEL
Tephra, are there any differences in the NLTS in this patch versus you newer one with ALTmap. I am asking because i installed this patch months ago and ive been doing it great, but as soon as i upgraded its not acting the same. When i put the cluth in under full throttle it pops real loud like its hitting a rev limiter than after that first pop it gets past it and goes all the way to my actual rev limiter.... its like its trying to do the NLTS but then failing when i switch back to this older patch it works fine
I was referring to V4, which has been out for awhile.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=313893
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=313893
Tephra,
Since 96940011 is giving you a lot of trouble for v5, can us 96940011 people at least have the latest and greatest features like load based NLTS, etc? I tested your original patch for 96940011 and it works great, but I think the load based NLTS will work even better in certain situations.
Eric
Since 96940011 is giving you a lot of trouble for v5, can us 96940011 people at least have the latest and greatest features like load based NLTS, etc? I tested your original patch for 96940011 and it works great, but I think the load based NLTS will work even better in certain situations.
Eric
Last edited by l2r99gst; Feb 28, 2008 at 04:10 PM.
Jack of Trades, I used your diagram to make a loom up for my E6 using an E7 ecu, but when I made it up, there was no 5 volt 1-watt Zener Diode in the diagram.
I have noticed that you've added it in now, so as everything is working fine for me at the moment, do I need to go and get a 5 volt 1-watt Zener Diode and add it into the loom ?
Also notice the 10k ohm 1/8 watt Resistor, this again is something I haven't got connected, and doing a quick search over here, seems it's not too easy to get hold of either
Are there any other values that would do the trick if there needed ??
I have noticed that you've added it in now, so as everything is working fine for me at the moment, do I need to go and get a 5 volt 1-watt Zener Diode and add it into the loom ?
Also notice the 10k ohm 1/8 watt Resistor, this again is something I haven't got connected, and doing a quick search over here, seems it's not too easy to get hold of either

Are there any other values that would do the trick if there needed ??
Last edited by cossie1; Feb 28, 2008 at 06:05 PM.
Jack of Trades, I used your diagram to make a loom up for my E6 using an E7 ecu, but when I made it up, there was no 5 volt 1-watt Zener Diode in the diagram.
I have noticed that you've added it in now, so as everything is working fine for me at the moment, do I need to go and get a 5 volt 1-watt Zener Diode and add it into the loom ?
I have noticed that you've added it in now, so as everything is working fine for me at the moment, do I need to go and get a 5 volt 1-watt Zener Diode and add it into the loom ?
With the resistor layout, its possible to vary from around 3.9-5 volts depending on the battery voltage (i.e; car off or car running, faulty alternator, etc..)
With the zener diode layout, you'll see the voltage anly vary from around 4.7-5 volts.
I'm actually going to be updating that diagram once more and replacing the 5.1 volt Zener diode with a 4.7 volt zener diode. Tephra would feel more comfortable not having the voltage POSSIBLY exceed 5 volts by too much inot the ADC input. Mainly as a precaution. Can't ever be too safe :-)
The ADC input has an adjustable switching point from 0 to 5 volts (its an 8bit input so we adjust it in decimal values instead of voltage values from 0-255). If you set it to anything below 2.7 volts (a setting of around 138) the ECU has trouble determining if its actually SIGNAL its seeing or just line noise. So as long as your giving it between 2.7-5.0 volts you have a nice strong signal.
You obviously have to set the switching point LOWER than your actual voltage on your ADC input wire. Say you Never see a voltage lower than 4.6 volts, I'd set the switching point to 4.0 volts (a setting of around 205) just to give myself a little room for error.
Hope that helps anyone understand how it works a little better :-)
Nah, you should be fine with the initial diagram. The only difference is the voltage RANGE you may experience with the basic resistor layout I had originally used without the Zener diode. The zener diode helps to limit the voltage fluctuations a LOT better.
With the resistor layout, its possible to vary from around 3.9-5 volts depending on the battery voltage (i.e; car off or car running, faulty alternator, etc..)
With the zener diode layout, you'll see the voltage anly vary from around 4.7-5 volts.
I'm actually going to be updating that diagram once more and replacing the 5.1 volt Zener diode with a 4.7 volt zener diode. Tephra would feel more comfortable not having the voltage POSSIBLY exceed 5 volts by too much inot the ADC input. Mainly as a precaution. Can't ever be too safe :-)
The ADC input has an adjustable switching point from 0 to 5 volts (its an 8bit input so we adjust it in decimal values instead of voltage values from 0-255). If you set it to anything below 2.7 volts (a setting of around 138) the ECU has trouble determining if its actually SIGNAL its seeing or just line noise. So as long as your giving it between 2.7-5.0 volts you have a nice strong signal.
You obviously have to set the switching point LOWER than your actual voltage on your ADC input wire. Say you Never see a voltage lower than 4.6 volts, I'd set the switching point to 4.0 volts (a setting of around 205) just to give myself a little room for error.
Hope that helps anyone understand how it works a little better :-)
With the resistor layout, its possible to vary from around 3.9-5 volts depending on the battery voltage (i.e; car off or car running, faulty alternator, etc..)
With the zener diode layout, you'll see the voltage anly vary from around 4.7-5 volts.
I'm actually going to be updating that diagram once more and replacing the 5.1 volt Zener diode with a 4.7 volt zener diode. Tephra would feel more comfortable not having the voltage POSSIBLY exceed 5 volts by too much inot the ADC input. Mainly as a precaution. Can't ever be too safe :-)
The ADC input has an adjustable switching point from 0 to 5 volts (its an 8bit input so we adjust it in decimal values instead of voltage values from 0-255). If you set it to anything below 2.7 volts (a setting of around 138) the ECU has trouble determining if its actually SIGNAL its seeing or just line noise. So as long as your giving it between 2.7-5.0 volts you have a nice strong signal.
You obviously have to set the switching point LOWER than your actual voltage on your ADC input wire. Say you Never see a voltage lower than 4.6 volts, I'd set the switching point to 4.0 volts (a setting of around 205) just to give myself a little room for error.
Hope that helps anyone understand how it works a little better :-)
So far it's switched on and off when I have wanted it to.





