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PATCH: NLTS + Valet + KnockCEL

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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #991  
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Guys do the test in the garage (20% tps, 0km/h speed) rev upto 2500 and then push the clutch slowly.

this should:
a) tell you that its working
b) show you where your clutch switch engagement point is.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 02:27 PM
  #992  
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Originally Posted by tephra
Guys do the test in the garage (20% tps, 0km/h speed) rev upto 2500 and then push the clutch slowly.

this should:
a) tell you that its working
b) show you where your clutch switch engagement point is.
It works just fine and that test was done. The issue is when the clutch is released fully before the RPM drop is complete. So for example, if we have the RPM drop set at something silly like 3000rpm and I do the following:


Press the throttle to the floor
Press in the clutch (RPMs start to fall)
shift
release the clutch fully (no foot on the clutch pedal any longer)

the car "forces" the drop, ie I get engine braking until the 3000rpm drop is complete at which time the car starts accelerating again.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 02:33 PM
  #993  
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oh i see what you mean.

no - that's not how it works. once the conditions for NLTS are no longer met (speed/tps/clutch) NLTS restores the normal revlimitter.

You can test that in the garage as well, set your drop to 2500, rev to 3000, clutch in... wait for the revs to drop to 2000 and let clutch out... the revs shouldn't fall all the way to 500 (3000-2500)

I suspect your leaving your foot on the clutch OR you clutch pedal isn't coming out the whole way for some reason...
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #994  
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Originally Posted by tephra
Guys do the test in the garage (20% tps, 0km/h speed) rev upto 2500 and then push the clutch slowly.

this should:
a) tell you that its working
b) show you where your clutch switch engagement point is.
In neutral I hope... I would hate to land in my kitchen with a 30K dollar car...
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 03:38 PM
  #995  
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well its up to you... but yes I would do it in neutral, with the handbrake on just in case :P
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 09:33 PM
  #996  
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From: Dirty Jerz
Originally Posted by Shadowpriest
It works just fine and that test was done. The issue is when the clutch is released fully before the RPM drop is complete. So for example, if we have the RPM drop set at something silly like 3000rpm and I do the following:


Press the throttle to the floor
Press in the clutch (RPMs start to fall)
shift
release the clutch fully (no foot on the clutch pedal any longer)

the car "forces" the drop, ie I get engine braking until the 3000rpm drop is complete at which time the car starts accelerating again.
thats wierd...i never had that issue at all....maybe you need to adjust the switch..could be sensitive possibly your foot isn't coming fully off the clutch pedal...try checking the gap between your pedal and the switch...i have about an inch clearance if i remember correctly

hey tephra i have a question...now i normally had my clutch switch disconnected for my remote start...however i like the NLTS so i had it connected while teesting and of coarse i can't remote start at the moment..especially with this weather in NJ felt like -5 degrees today..but is there a way when i'm leavin car to disable that switch like for instance holding down fog light button or something for 3 sec...than i can enable it after gettin in the car if i want NLTS..and fog light dashboar light flash or something to enable and disable the clutch switch...?
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #997  
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It would probably be easier to disable the "can't start the car without the clutch down" functionality...
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 09:51 PM
  #998  
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From: Dirty Jerz
yes, is that possible???? how would i do this.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 10:00 PM
  #999  
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not sure, presumably it would be one of those FAA flags.. but I don't really have time to look now.

Maybe post up a new thread about it
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 10:04 PM
  #1000  
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From: Dirty Jerz
yes sir!
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 05:53 AM
  #1001  
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the clutch/ start engine switch is not the same switch as the nlts clutch switch.


I don't need to have the clutch down to start my car and I have the nlts function.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:07 PM
  #1002  
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Is it necessary to use the supplied ROM? I ask because I'm curious how my old tuner just added the mod's within a few seconds, I'd imagine if he was copying all of the old values from my un-modded map to your supplied maps tephra, that it'd take him a little longer then just a few minutes.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:19 PM
  #1003  
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From: Opelika,AL
Yeah you need the new ROM that Tephra posts up, thats what have the patch embedded in it. If you've done enough of them, it only takes maybe 5 minutes to do it. When I was testing some patches for Teph, I got a new version every day for a week. I got REALLY fast at them in no time.

He probably already has all of his XML files edited though, that way it is in fact a simple copy and paste ordeal.

Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Feb 27, 2008 at 04:14 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #1004  
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Fair enough, I went through and made changes. there aren't many things to change really, so it wasn't that bad.

Thanks
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Old Feb 28, 2008 | 09:17 AM
  #1005  
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Tephra, are there any differences in the NLTS in this patch versus you newer one with ALTmap. I am asking because i installed this patch months ago and ive been doing it great, but as soon as i upgraded its not acting the same. When i put the cluth in under full throttle it pops real loud like its hitting a rev limiter than after that first pop it gets past it and goes all the way to my actual rev limiter.... its like its trying to do the NLTS but then failing when i switch back to this older patch it works fine
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