A lot run 11.7/6 at peak load and taper it down to 11.2 that s will manage your thermals


each car is different timing wise but id say its a tad high up top

 

now that would be pointless

 

Being that rich I would have thought it was afrmap

 

haha yeah give me a little more credit!

Thanks guys for the advice. I did attempt to check the base timing using evoscan, it showed about 2-3 degrees instead of the 5 that it was supposed to be at idle (in the evoscan test mode), wondering if this is why I can get away with the 16-18 degrees up top without knock.

I'll lean out the peak load areas to hit what you mentioned, can't say i'm not nervous about doing it

Thoughts on the spool up and peak load sections of the Timing map?

 

 

Can you post up the actual log instead?

 

sure thing. I don't have winzip so I just renamed it to ".xml". Rename it to .csv and it should open. Note this log is from before I smoothed out the timing in the 80-220 load range and got rid of the negative timing in the peak boost areas.


March19.xml

 

To me it looks like you have too little timing at ~3500 at peak load and is too rich. Get the AFR back around 11.3-11.7 and it should clean up knock a good amount.

If I were tuning the car I would set the fuel around 11.3-11.5 afr, timing around 2* at 3500-4000 and then gradually ramp up to 12-14* by 7000. You will most likely need to reduce timing since you are running it rich which generally will allow for more timing.

 

Hey Guys,

I'm in a bit of a pickle. I picked up my 03 last summer with a blown motor. I spent the past few months rebuilding it to stock. One of the reasons I wanted an evo was ease of DIY tuning. I've been driving an e46 for years and it's not very user friendly.

Anyway, I goofed and didn't torque down my race balance shaft when I rebuild the bottom end. Needless so say, my block is coming back out. I've decided to go ahead and build a 2.4 to go in. I always told myself that if I ever had to pull the 2.0, I'd build a stroker. Well, I found a 64 block and crank for a great price locally and I'm going to get it done.

My problem is that I currently have zero logging/tuning experience under my belt. I really want to learn to do it myself and I think I have the patience to learn. I have a completely stock ROM for the 2.0 and want to know if there are any simple adjustments I can make to just make sure I can get out and start logging the car without blowing anything up. I plan to just run wastegate pressure to get it going and I'll have a wideband installed and ready to log.

Other than the built long rod 2.4, the car will be stock. Stock exhaust, cat, downpipe, intake, etc. The only "mods" are a fully deleted EGR and I'll probalby put in a 9 BOV as I broke the nipple off the 8 twice. I'm ready to toss it.

Thanks in advance.

 

Bummer about the doubly broken motor, that's rough...

Here are a couple things to think about before you button things back up:
1. Consider porting the exhaust manifold and turbine housing while it's all apart. If you're building a motor then you probably have the time and skill.
2. Consider porting the intake manifold TB flange too. Again, it's all apart anyway. You can always get the bigger TB later.
3. Put in some cams. The big motor is going to want to breathe and the little cams restrict even the 2.0. I just installed some Kelford 264's and they're making me more power for sure. You could probably get away with the 272's and avoid all the lameness normally associated.
4. Stick an o2 housing on too. That's kinda the last of the PITA to install parts while everything is apart.

Now that your motor / car is back together, I'd spend $200 to have someone do a base tune for you. I totally understand wanting to learn and do it yourself, but you've moved far enough away from the stock calibration that the car will likely be grumpy, and you'll take a while to sort it out. All that time sorting cold start, idle, mystery knock, etc. isn't all that fun a learning experience. It really just kinda sucks.

Once you've got a good baseline however, you can look back at your stock tune and see what the tuner did. You also get a series of ROMs they give you as they're working, and your logs to compare and learn from. Consider it like going to class. From there you start making your own incremental changes and adjusting the tune, which really is the fun part.

Hope that helps. I'm just speaking from kinda similar shoes.

 

ttt

 

I can't get decent amount of timing up top, verified with few different tuner. I am suspecting engine damage. Engine is seeing coolant lost recently.



Mods:
HKS 7460 Turbo
HKS 274/278 step 2 cams
HKS Valve spring
Manley retainer
FIC 850cc
Walbro fuel pump
ETS 3" Intercooler
ACT HDSS
Grimmspeed 3 port
93 octane with 10% ethanol blend

 

You cannot diagnose engine damage based on a timing map. You need to find out mechanically what is happening before wasting more money on tunes from people who are not willing to dig down and figure out what is wrong with the car.

 

^ Agreed.

You need to properly diagnose the vehicle if you suspect there's an issue.

 

@AggieEvo - I would suggest nearly the same list as Nimpoc has. I am surprised you would even consider more displacement, but not address the breathing? Cams would be a must do on that setup for me. When I built my 2.0, I really just 'built' it with stock internals, but did most everything else. I should have spent the extra 100 bucks to have someone port the stock exhaust mani. I polished it a bit myself, but you need tooling to get inside of there properly. I regret that now.

Getting a good basemap from someone will really speed your learning. Just work with someone that is willing to answer emails and questions. That is really what you are paying for. A basemap won't be that revolutionary, but the guidance backed by a decade of experience will be invaluable as you start to figure it out.