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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 06:09 PM
  #2341  
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Originally Posted by domyz
Yeah, I setup my knock sensor to ignore knock below 120 load IIRC at 3000 RPM,
eliminating it hearing the noise caused by engine/exhaust movement (transition from no to full acceleration)
That's exactly what I did last night
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 06:12 AM
  #2342  
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From: FL
Originally Posted by noobers8
No knock up top but I've been fighting spool knock at 2800-3000 in 1st and 2nd gear

-FP green
-Hks272
-3" TBE
-MAP 02 dump
-ETS fmic
peak 300 taper to 285/ 11.7 tapering to 11.3

Anything over 2.0 volts should be considered real knock.Also the 02 dump can cause false knock as well. How are you able to get away with 4-5* under/ around peak torque on 91? What is your A/F at peak torque?
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 06:55 AM
  #2343  
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by Abacus
Anything over 2.0 volts should be considered real knock.Also the 02 dump can cause false knock as well. How are you able to get away with 4-5* under/ around peak torque on 91? What is your A/F at peak torque?
The waste gate isn't open at 1-3 psi anyway, I'm at 4600 ft and afr is 10.9-11.2 at peak torque
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 08:12 AM
  #2344  
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Just an opinion, but I would run less timing and lean out the afr in that area. You'd get the torque hit quicker.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 02:15 PM
  #2345  
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Hi, here's mine.
Let's see your fully tuned timing maps-capture.jpg
I often get 1-2 knock when I goes from nothing to full throttle and boost.
I was wondering if it might be because my transfer from like 100load to 300load(25psi) is to much drastic and that cause my knock sometimes...

What do you think of the map??
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 04:10 PM
  #2346  
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Originally Posted by PL_MR
Hi, here's mine.
Attachment 210870
I often get 1-2 knock when I goes from nothing to full throttle and boost.
I was wondering if it might be because my transfer from like 100load to 300load(25psi) is to much drastic and that cause my knock sometimes...

What do you think of the map??
Kinda high cruise timing, I hope you don't have EGR advance activated.
Kinda harsh from 60 to 160 load, like you said maybe smooth that a little bit.
Other than that it looks good for 93 octane.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #2347  
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I did my timing advance like that and dropped it back after a few people brought up the egr method so that it would drive smoother. Less delta t is gonna go from 0-3% tps smoother, and the egr method only adds it in during cruise conditions. Plus there are some other concepts I don't quite understand .

a tad over my head, and did we ever cover how decel timing effects engine braking?

Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Aug 3, 2013 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #2348  
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Having problems getting my hot start dialed in with the s3s... Tried looking at other maps in this thread for some guidance and it still has trouble finding idle on hot start and when dropping out of gear during cruising. I can't post up timing map at this moment but can later on tonight. Mods are:

9:1 built motor
FP red
PTE 880
GSC s3
Buschur double pumper
Fuel lab AFPR
Full bolt ons
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #2349  
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
I did my timing advance like that and dropped it back after a few people brought up the egr method so that it would drive smoother. Less delta t is gonna go from 0-3% tps smoother, and the egr method only adds it in during cruise conditions. Plus there are some other concepts I don't quite understand .

a tad over my head, and did we ever cover how decel timing effects engine braking?
I made some reading about this last month. To adjust engine braking, main thing to tune: ISCV. You can make it to stay opened after a WOT, or simply after reaching at certain RPM value. Also, from my testing, to reduce engine braking you add timing, and fuel. To have more engine braking, you go leaner and weaker timing (less torque) (the latter only work with fuel injected / part throttle)

All cases have their limits which when you cross them, you fall in a badly tuned behavior.

Last edited by domyz; Aug 9, 2013 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #2350  
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Macaroni:::

Sounds like iscv settings or biss. Do you have stock pcv system aswell?
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #2351  
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
Sounds like iscv settings or biss. Do you have stock pcv system aswell?
Pcv is deleted. Haven't messed with biss yet but did tinker with iscv
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #2352  
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Stock pcv helps idle, biss is the best start go back to stock iscv settings If you do biss( just to start fresh )
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #2353  
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Ill try that out tonight
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 09:15 AM
  #2354  
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From: FL
Originally Posted by PL_MR
Hi, here's mine.
Attachment 210870
I often get 1-2 knock when I goes from nothing to full throttle and boost.
I was wondering if it might be because my transfer from like 100load to 300load(25psi) is to much drastic and that cause my knock sometimes...

What do you think of the map??
Thats a good map for 25psi. I would run less cruise timing (37-38) and run a little bit more timing from 100-160/180.

Also what are you registering for knock voltage? Sometimes the knock sensor has to be adjusted once the car is modded.

Last edited by Abacus; Aug 4, 2013 at 09:19 AM.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #2355  
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From: Australia
Originally Posted by Abacus
Anything over 2.0 volts should be considered real knock.Also the 02 dump can cause false knock as well. How are you able to get away with 4-5* under/ around peak torque on 91? What is your A/F at peak torque?
I've heard this but also heard the competing argument that it's impossible to tell unless you log knock base and knock adc with high enough sampling rate to see when knock base is exceeded.
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