Let's see your fully tuned timing maps
I've read a lot and talked with a few people about the factory sensor . Voltage( over 2) is a good indictor and as well as a large spike. I also used Det cans a few times to check things when I had a false knock scenario.
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Montreal, Quebec
Interesting, I will data log the knock voltage to see, I have never check that before...
The knock for me often get when I pass to full acceleration, so maybe the kick that the boost is giving make it detect...
For my high timing on cruise, I have take that in a fuel economy forum where it was saying it has better fuel economy but I will try to drop it. I better like a good hit of boost well transition then save 20$ at the end of the year in fuel economy...
I also read that the best for low octane ignition map is to put like 3 degres of timing or other said to put it equal to lower the suddent timing drop when there's a knock and that it knock less... How much less degrees do you run??
The knock for me often get when I pass to full acceleration, so maybe the kick that the boost is giving make it detect...
For my high timing on cruise, I have take that in a fuel economy forum where it was saying it has better fuel economy but I will try to drop it. I better like a good hit of boost well transition then save 20$ at the end of the year in fuel economy...
I also read that the best for low octane ignition map is to put like 3 degres of timing or other said to put it equal to lower the suddent timing drop when there's a knock and that it knock less... How much less degrees do you run??
Interesting, I will data log the knock voltage to see, I have never check that before...
The knock for me often get when I pass to full acceleration, so maybe the kick that the boost is giving make it detect...
For my high timing on cruise, I have take that in a fuel economy forum where it was saying it has better fuel economy but I will try to drop it. I better like a good hit of boost well transition then save 20$ at the end of the year in fuel economy...
I also read that the best for low octane ignition map is to put like 3 degres of timing or other said to put it equal to lower the suddent timing drop when there's a knock and that it knock less... How much less degrees do you run??
The knock for me often get when I pass to full acceleration, so maybe the kick that the boost is giving make it detect...
For my high timing on cruise, I have take that in a fuel economy forum where it was saying it has better fuel economy but I will try to drop it. I better like a good hit of boost well transition then save 20$ at the end of the year in fuel economy...
I also read that the best for low octane ignition map is to put like 3 degres of timing or other said to put it equal to lower the suddent timing drop when there's a knock and that it knock less... How much less degrees do you run??
It still seems as if a number of people don't understand the use of the low/high octane maps and knock.
If the low/high maps are the same, the ECU will still pull timing when you knock. It's roughly 1* of timing for every 3 knock counts. That algorithm has nothing to do with your high/low maps. You can think of that as your short term knock trim, if you'd like.
The high/low maps come into play for sustained levels of high knock activity. You can think of them as your long term knock trims. The exact knock counts are in several threads on the subject, but IIRC, a knock count of 6+ will begin lowering the octane number. The octane number is the factor that the ECU uses to interploate between the high/low maps. So, octane=100, you are 100% on the high map. Octane number = 50, you are exactly in between the two maps, and so on.
Now, should you use your low octane maps? I would say yes, but that's just my opinion. But, they are there for a reason. If your car is consistently knocking, then something is wrong. So, you may as well give the ECU a chance to use a lower map to correct the problem. Otherwise, it will have to use it's short terms algorithm to correct for the knock that is already happening. If you knock counts come back down, then octane number will raise again and put you back on your high maps.
If the low/high maps are the same, the ECU will still pull timing when you knock. It's roughly 1* of timing for every 3 knock counts. That algorithm has nothing to do with your high/low maps. You can think of that as your short term knock trim, if you'd like.
The high/low maps come into play for sustained levels of high knock activity. You can think of them as your long term knock trims. The exact knock counts are in several threads on the subject, but IIRC, a knock count of 6+ will begin lowering the octane number. The octane number is the factor that the ECU uses to interploate between the high/low maps. So, octane=100, you are 100% on the high map. Octane number = 50, you are exactly in between the two maps, and so on.
Now, should you use your low octane maps? I would say yes, but that's just my opinion. But, they are there for a reason. If your car is consistently knocking, then something is wrong. So, you may as well give the ECU a chance to use a lower map to correct the problem. Otherwise, it will have to use it's short terms algorithm to correct for the knock that is already happening. If you knock counts come back down, then octane number will raise again and put you back on your high maps.
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
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From: Australia
That's mine when my GTA was totally stock. Now I have a 3" mandrel bent, turbo back exhaust (cat delete), pod filter, Warlbro 255 pump, gizzmo ebc and a HDI GT2 fmic with hot and cold pipes, but I'm unable to have it tuned as the only tuner with this software is 2000kms away from me.
Last edited by Michael_GTA; Aug 13, 2013 at 07:10 PM.
That's mine when my GTA was totally stock. Now I have a 3" mandrel bent, turbo back exhaust (cat delete), pod filter, Warlbro 255 pump, gizzmo ebc and a HDI GT2 fmic with hot and cold pipes, but I'm unable to have it tuned as the only tuner with this software is 2000kms away from me.
Octane, load you're hitting? I really hope you aren't over 210-220 load because it's really mild.
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
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From: Australia
I've put down the high octane fuel map for you to look at too.
Last edited by Michael_GTA; Aug 13, 2013 at 07:40 PM.
Timing map is pretty useless without knowing which load you are hitting. At 23psi on a stock VIII MAF it's about 250load. If VII are the same, your timing map is so mild that EGT must be high.
evo 9, 24.5 psi, stock cams stock turbo, stock o2 housing, ets fmic and piping, dp/catback.
anybody think im a little light on timing out the top? thinking i might be able to add a degree or two more as boost tapers off. this is a road race car so im not trying to be very aggressive but build a beneficial torque curve.
anybody think im a little light on timing out the top? thinking i might be able to add a degree or two more as boost tapers off. this is a road race car so im not trying to be very aggressive but build a beneficial torque curve.
I would drop a degree at peak load, but the rest of it looks solid. You're running the same amount of timing I do, but I tuned mine to hold more boost through the mid range.