Finally, they're working on my head now.

 

Donald. I called your machine shop just to let them know, they have valves in upside down. They agreed & will install them the correct way

Good to see the work being done. Good results are on the way

 

 

Impressive results with the 71hta. I'm still breaking in my car but should be getting tuned pretty soon. Hoping for similar results!

 

After reading Ron's (Pal215) thread, I decided to do a little more on my car. I chased the head bolt threads all the way down each hole. The worst was the one closest to driver (see photos below). What the heck is in the ARP lube? It felt gritty and it was on the bolt in my oil port to head.
Anyway, I cleaned them all out. Not sure if I want to use that moly lube when I reinstall my head.

 

What are your mods?
edit: never mind. Just saw your link in signature.
do you have E85 available?

 

Yeah I plan on E85. But I've also got 100 octane unleaded pretty close.

I'm running a Wally 255 which may be my limiting factor though. Maybe move to a 450 or something similar.

 

what's your compression ratio? And who ported your hotside?

 

With all your mods, I'd guess you will hit 500whp mark if your 255 can keep up.
To max out your turbo, you should look into bigger pump and a 2 stage rewire before your tune. Don't be like me and pay for 2 tuning sessions because of fuel problems.

 

9.1 compression. Boostin did my porting.
I need a bigger fuel pump...

 

you have a few advantages over me. 9.1 vs 8.8 compression will get you 3.4 % more power. Not sure how much SD, ported head, IM, TB, cam gears, and especially your test pipe will give you. Your FPD may allow your tuner to make a little more with fuel pressure at each injector being more consistent (I'm thinking about adding thst too).

 

my head is getting valve job with +1 mm too. I have evo 8 gears 3 & 4 and I will install my TurboSmart 22 psi WGA for next tune. Instead of swain coating, I'm using turbo blanket and 2" Lava wrap. I think we will both max out our HTA 71 turbos. And I think you should be on FP Green at the minimum with your build. You definitely will make more torque since you don't have stock bottom end like me (will you hit over 500WTQ?). I'm worried with 420 TQ and will probably request my tuner get that down to 400. We'll see.

 

A quick update: as I wait for my head to be completed, I picked up a complete evo 9 head. I also have an extra intake manifold and throttle body. I decided to start building a spare engine so that when the time comes, I simply swap out the engines. I am still trying to figure out of I want to stick with 4G63 block or try 4G64. This will depend on California's smog police. I do want to keep redline at 8500-9000rpm (trying to stay at 26 m/s piston speed or less). Ideally, that would be a 92mm crankshaft.

 

Based on all the mods that have / will be done to your existing engine & the build, dont think engine block codes are going to be an issue.

If any of us get pulled over & he feels your car is out of compliance, we will be summoned to the state REF. These guys at the REF station know whats up w/modded engines /exhaust. Once they hear / see the injectors, intake, exhaust, cams, you will be required to revert back to stock.

There may be some ways to avoid the REF but hope none of us have to travel down that road

Based on all that we have done to date, I wouldnt worry about the block spec

 

I still have my stock injectors and TBE. My injen has CARB. And reinstalling my stock cams are easy enough since I'd leave my GSC valve springs. Maybe I should keep a stock tune just in case.