I wasn't planning for port job. This shop is amazing! I'm so satisfied with their work that I'm speechless seeing all photos and videos sent to me.

...Head ****

 

Few more pictures

 

Sorry, double posted again!

 

This is Arlington Machine Shop's "Competition Valve Job Plus". The Plus is the port job.
I just want to mount this thing on my wall!!
Now, to find time to put engine back together...So many ziplock bags to sort out!

 

I plan to max out the FP 71HTA. Stay tuned to see what this little turbo is capable of. It's already overachieving, so I'm not sure how much more it can do.
I'm actually hoping to get really close to 500whp.

 

Well said Don

Head looks complete & well done !

I checked out their FB page & following now!

 

Introduce yourself. They have a lot of knowledge about engines. He's been getting more and more evo head and engine build jobs. My head was part of a batch of 4. And as of yesterday, he just got 7 more to build!
One of my first questions to interview him was how is his work different than others. He showed me his competitor's work which failed within months. And I will not be surprised that half is new builds from other shops where oil started leaking into combustion chambers.
The owner has a very technical mind and thinks like a mechanical engineer. I bounced my ideas off of him and he immediately knew what I was talking about. It was scary how quickly and well we understood each other.
You (and a few others here) know how picky I am with people working on my car. I completely trust them.

 

Ive never seen a compressor map for the 71hta but I will be super impressed if you hit that target.

 

Based on my tune at 460WHP on the DynoPak at 24PSI. Dont think it will be a issue to strike 500WHP on the DynoPak w/Dons setup . My head was rebuilt, but in stock trim at only 24 PSI on the 71HTA

On a ported intake & larger valves, FP mani & the O2 housing, running 28 PSI, I cant believe it will be less than 500WHP

 

According to Sam (tuner), a rough estimate to calculate power is take the turbo flow rate (51 pounds per minute) and multiple by compression ratio (8.8). This gives us about 450whp, so it's already maxed out. But having head flow better, will help with turbo's efficiency so it can push 51 pounds/minute at lower boost, which means cooler air and more density. This will be very interesting!

 

I'm going to pay RRE to tune twice. This first tune will be strictly on upgraded head so I can see and quantify how much improvement over stock valvetrain with S2 cams. I will be very surprised if this 71HTA can hit 28psi boost with a better flowing head. I have a mild port, so I'm expecting a small increase in lag, but more power up top. What I'll be looking at is the boost and power correlation. Theoretically, I'm expecting 24psi redline to make about the same power as if I was boosting 26-28 psi on stock head ports and stock valve seats. Even Arlington's basic head job will open up the valve seats by 1mm to seat on outter edges of stock valves. So I would expect turbo will have a tough time holding 26psi at redline with TurboSmart 22 psi WGA.

 

I've searched for the 71HTA compressor efficiency map last year and had no luck. If this turbo is capable of 27.5psi at readline, it should be able push a bit more at 24psi because of difference in heat (should be denser).

I think 470whp is what RRE can get out of 71HTA turbos in the past, but I think that is with test pipe. I will always run HFC, so I'm not sure how much more my car could have made if my injectors weren't hitting 95-100% duty cylcles.
I'll need about 6% better efficiency out of the turbo to hit 500whp. This is asking a LOT out of this little turbo
My second tune will be on FP Red or Black (with FP manifold and Wally 450), so I'm expecting a lot more!

 

Sorry, another double post mistake...

 

Intake manifold gasket vs intake ports. The opening was untouched as they were about the same as gasket. Polishing started about 1/2 inch inside from gasket.

 

Not much update. Spent a little time scraping off old gasket. There's a black gunk stuck on block. How do I clean all the gasket dust that fell in the oil and coolant ports? I'm thinking to fill radiator to water and run engine through 3-5 heat cycles and change oil and drain water to fill with coolant. I'll retorque head at same time.
Thoughts? Ideas? Thanks in advance.