I was just quoted $300 for clear bra. Can't believe it's that expensive! Looking into ceramic coating now, but problem is that it needs to be reapplied annually.

 

you could get it wrapped, or just do it yourself, doesn't look that hard for as simple a surface as the trunk lid.

 

Agreed!
Where can I get the best anti-UV clear wrap?

 

I don't have any first hand experience with that so hopefully someone else can chime in, otherwise you might need to do some research. Personally I like 3M products and am probably going to be using their film at some point.

Edit: Did some quick searching..maybe this? https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotchgard-Paint-Protection-Film-Pro-Series/?N=5002385+3292322927&rt=rud

 

$140 to do it myself. It will have to be in 2 pieces, so I'll need to find a good break point to hide the line from 2 edges mating up.

 

2 pieces would probably be a deal breaker for me, someone has to make a film that comes big enough.

 

The one piece is about $180. At this point, I may bite the bullet and pay a shop $300 to get it. If I screw up installing, then it will cost me more.

 

It's been months since I did my fuel pump rewire. Watching it run, I've become uncomfortable with using a regular relay for Fuel Pump Relay #3 (I actually have 2 here in parallel for redundancy). Seeing how often this relay switches on/off, I am building a new setup with solid state relays for #3 (will keep using regular relay for #2 that gets power directly from battery with fuse).

 

I will be picking your brain when I decide to do a rewire, seems like you are doing it right man! Seems complicated though

 

This one will be simplfied. Regular Relay (RR) #2 signal wire tapped into Fuel Pump Relay (FPR) #2 to switch on/off with signal from IGN & CAS. Then small electronic relay to switch FPR#3 and a new Solid State Relay (SSR)#3. The OEM FPR#2 and #3 will run like OEM. But this SSR#3 will be direct battery (14V) power going through RR#2 and jump fuel pump with 13.8-14.2V, depending if your AC is on/off. I will always have a simple volt gauge to watch for switch over to know when something is wrong. I always test it with 1 psi boost to make sure it's working before going WOT.

 

I am impressed by your relay configuration. How are you getting 14.2v as your Vmax? I can get about 13.9v at the battery on a cold day. It starts to drop as it gets hotter out and the car warms up.

 

That's just how high it goes from my alternator. Maybe you have some current draw pulling the voltage down? Also, are you measuring your 13.9V at idle? When WOT, higher RPMs will increase current and voltage at sane time.

 

Yup, only at idle. I have a ton of electrical junk taxing the alternator

 

Thanks again for logging my EvO tonight Don

 

Decided to go with FP54 wheel (9 blade) instead of 11blade.