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As for my plans, due to limited funds for a tuner, I'll skip the billet 20G TD06 SL2R ("54") and mate this 54 9 blade wheel to an EF3 wheel (similar to FP Red). I'm hoping for the lag of a FP Green with power close to FP Red. Hope this clears things up.
Just do it yourself
Then you only have to buy dyno time
Sorry if I've confused you. The 54mm 9 blade turbine wheel is a TD06 wheel (FP54, which is a Green turbo, not 71) The TD05 9 blade with 20G is not "54" but it is comparable to 71hta. I expect it to be slightly laggier than 71 but have more up top because of 9 blade. @Lumpy Sticks will be upgrading to one of these when he's ready. I think best test is to log his oem 9 boost curve and then match it on this upgrade to get VD power curves. Then push this turbo's limits to see where it's most happy.
As for my plans, due to limited funds for a tuner, I'll skip the billet 20G TD06 SL2R ("54") and mate this 54 9 blade wheel to an EF3 wheel (similar to FP Red). I'm hoping for the lag of a FP Green with power close to FP Red. Hope this clears things up.
I also had a brain fart when I typed that...still interested to see your results. Your current setup and figures are pretty much my goal for the Phase 1 of my build. Car is being used in a multi-discipline time trial series, so I'd like to keep the stock-like response with more punch throughout to hurt the fully-built rotate mount Subarus . I'll be keeping the 6-spd for a good while still so limited by Torque in any case. The billet high blade height 20G wheel is sitting in the cupboard...
I also had a brain fart when I typed that...still interested to see your results. Your current setup and figures are pretty much my goal for the Phase 1 of my build. Car is being used in a multi-discipline time trial series, so I'd like to keep the stock-like response with more punch throughout to hurt the fully-built rotate mount Subarus . I'll be keeping the 6-spd for a good while still so limited by Torque in any case. The billet high blade height 20G wheel is sitting in the cupboard...
If you have the tallest billet 20G, I would think that a TD05 9 blade would struggle to spin the assembly to max. I'd match that up with SL2R like you were thinking. If you want to experiment, then have fun with the TD05 12 blade and 9 blade.
I also had a brain fart when I typed that...still interested to see your results. Your current setup and figures are pretty much my goal for the Phase 1 of my build. Car is being used in a multi-discipline time trial series, so I'd like to keep the stock-like response with more punch throughout to hurt the fully-built rotate mount Subarus . I'll be keeping the 6-spd for a good while still so limited by Torque in any case. The billet high blade height 20G wheel is sitting in the cupboard...
Because of our torque limits on stock rods, I feel that going to a bigger turbo with more lag doesn't give up too much lag (since we are detuning in our lower rpms) to gain more up top. Unless you are constantly in the need for instant punch on a road course, going bigger fits my power cravings. 71hta is too much of an on/off switch and it's hard to drive normal. I have to feather the gas pedal when driving under 4000 rpm to drive normal. Otherwise, people think I'm racing them. Tallest billet 20G SL2R 9 blade should be perfect for my driving style, but I'm looking for 550 or more, so I'm working on that EF2.5.
I finally figured out why I'm always having a hard time launching at Fontana!
I finally installed evoscan in my spare laptop since I lost my Surface Pro and logged most of my runs. Turns out, my 2 step started to pick up severe knock when temps got hot on track. So my 2 step started to pull timing right before my launches and I bogged. I had 1 good run in before it got too hot. I'm #4030.:
After about 16 months of running E85 from my local station in Stanton (I ran 91 octane gas once or twice to flush out my fuel system), I decided to get them cleaned to be safe. There wasn't any signs of problems as AFRs are always 10.0 to 10.9 at WOT and cruising and idles are always 14.5-14.8. I only had them cleaned because my friend needed his cleaned, so I sent mine in at same time. Injectors had no visible gunk, so they all "looked" good.
And here are the flow results from RC:
I've driven maybe 5,000 miles between cleanings. I'm going to find another station to buy E85 from since my injectors are so badly clogged.
I think the tech that tested my injectors last year setup the pressure wrong because #2 injector flowed 1559cc before cleaning. My guess is it was at 33-35 psi and not 43 last year.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Sep 19, 2019 at 09:01 AM.
Also, I always try to drive at least 20 miles if I start my engine to make sure there's pkenty of heat to evaporate E85 in my intake and injectors. I am surprised how #3 was under 1000cc with so little use.
Interesting, I had a couple ID1k and ID1.3k injectors that where 98% on E85 for 1 year+, including just sitting not being run for a decent amount of time sent out to be cleaned and they all passed.
Interesting, I had a couple ID1k and ID1.3k injectors that where 98% on E85 for 1 year+, including just sitting not being run for a decent amount of time sent out to be cleaned and they all passed.
I think it's the tanks in my area being redutied to hold E85. I've always suspected I'm getting dirty E85. Now I know.
. I'll be keeping the 6-spd for a good while still so limited by Torque in any case. The billet high blade height 20G wheel is sitting in the cupboard...
