Stepping my IX up for 91/E85, looking for final preparation suggestions
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: California
It was funny last night. I had 2 raised diesel trucks try to race me and a Focus RS when I'm doing my pulls. I just let them go so I don't screw up my 3rd gear runs. Lol
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 197
From: California
I think timing down low looks ok. The curve really looks decent but I would like to see boost, not just load. Depending on boost, it may be happier with not getting 5* until 5k, and then slowing the ramp to 10* out to 6k, then 15* at 7, and if you revved it 8k, you could give it another 1-2 degrees from 7-8.
Also, why aren't you revving it to 7600 or 8k?
Also, why aren't you revving it to 7600 or 8k?
Also, turns out, AFRs were in 10s on spool up and leans out to 12.7 up top. Now, car runs 11.5-11.8 with dips into 10.8 at spool up where max wtq was (3100-3800). Last night, my 71hta now spikes to 35psi and settles down to normal. So my revised tune lets turbo spike higher and run no timing until turbo settles down. And timing is about 5° less throughout (and more at spool up range). My tires no longer breaks loose in 1st gear at spool up, but it still hauls. It was fun going sideways when turbo hit, but this is more sane. Haha.
May want to turn the boost down on that small hard hitting turbo. If 30psi on the stock turbo exceeds 400 ft lbs(E85), then 35 on that one with some timing will be even more. If it breaks a rod/bolt it will cost you a block and more.
I'd cut open the oil filter now just to check if it were me.
Here are three ways to approach it since the engine has lived a hard life and can get quite expensive to fix.
1) Pay reputable source to retune it safely to protect your investment
2) Take some classes or educate yourself on tuning https://www.hpacademy.com/
3) Turn the boost down enough until you decide what path to take.
Sidenote, I wouldn't suggest trying to find MBT with road logging. Thats better spent on a dyno where you can see whats happening and look at the plugs. Sean gave a good guide line for timing values. You also may want to look at your knock tables if they are turned on.
Last edited by Abacus; Sep 24, 2019 at 01:05 PM.
I Def agree on turning the boost down. This isn't really the place to argue self reliance, and real world tuning vs dyno tuning, but It's good we have a diversity of opinion for OP to take in.
Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
I Def agree on turning the boost down. This isn't really the place to argue self reliance, and real world tuning vs dyno tuning, but It's good we have a diversity of opinion for OP to take in.
Boost isn't the hugest factor. High boost big turbo setups may get 1-2* less timing at a given RPM than a smaller turbo at more moderate boost levels. Other wise timing is dictated mostly by rpm and what the chamber wants. 0-1* in the 3500-4000 range is usually about all these engine usually want.
A dyno is a dyno and the real world is the real world. A dyno is only ever going to be an approximation of the real world. A car can make real good numbers on a screen but that doesn't necessarily translate to a faster car. Just to be clear I would include test and tune at the local strip to also be "road tuning", or any tuning done at the track. The difference is if you learn to road tune your car you can fine tune it for what ever event or situation you are getting into. If you just get a dyno tune and call it you aren't maximizing whats possible. I would take exception to the statement you can't get repeatable results road tuning, If i can do it anybody can. It's probably harder, you aren't just going to go out, knock out some runs and call it.
to get more into the weeds the way I approach it, its not so much about min maxing every timing cell, its more about reading the "torque curve" and trying to figure out what the car wants. An example of what i mean is looking at the torque curve with little filtering and try to smooth out that line. I really don't compare peak numbers to peak numbers its more like curve to curve. Area under the curve especially.
Disclaimer, I only do this for fun. There aren't any trophys or records that are a credit to my ideas. It's really not that complicated though, this use to be done with springs and spinning weights.
to get more into the weeds the way I approach it, its not so much about min maxing every timing cell, its more about reading the "torque curve" and trying to figure out what the car wants. An example of what i mean is looking at the torque curve with little filtering and try to smooth out that line. I really don't compare peak numbers to peak numbers its more like curve to curve. Area under the curve especially.
Disclaimer, I only do this for fun. There aren't any trophys or records that are a credit to my ideas. It's really not that complicated though, this use to be done with springs and spinning weights.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Sep 24, 2019 at 02:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 197
From: California
I agree. I will do lots of track tests & tunes after I get my Red54 turbo installed. I'll tune on stock ecu for smog tests. Then switch to Infinity and tune that for racing. I'll need lots of help. Lol
A dyno is a dyno and the real world is the real world. A dyno is only ever going to be an approximation of the real world. A car can make real good numbers on a screen but that doesn't necessarily translate to a faster car. Just to be clear I would include test and tune at the local strip to also be "road tuning", or any tuning done at the track. The difference is if you learn to road tune your car you can fine tune it for what ever event or situation you are getting into. If you just get a dyno tune and call it you aren't maximizing whats possible. I would take exception to the statement you can't get repeatable results road tuning, If i can do it anybody can. It's probably harder, you aren't just going to go out, knock out some runs and call it.
to get more into the weeds the way I approach it, its not so much about min maxing every timing cell, its more about reading the "torque curve" and trying to figure out what the car wants. An example of what i mean is looking at the torque curve with little filtering and try to smooth out that line. I really don't compare peak numbers to peak numbers its more like curve to curve. Area under the curve especially.
Disclaimer, I only do this for fun. There aren't any trophys or records that are a credit to my ideas. It's really not that complicated though, this use to be done with springs and spinning weights.
to get more into the weeds the way I approach it, its not so much about min maxing every timing cell, its more about reading the "torque curve" and trying to figure out what the car wants. An example of what i mean is looking at the torque curve with little filtering and try to smooth out that line. I really don't compare peak numbers to peak numbers its more like curve to curve. Area under the curve especially.
Disclaimer, I only do this for fun. There aren't any trophys or records that are a credit to my ideas. It's really not that complicated though, this use to be done with springs and spinning weights.
Yep totally agree with ya! If you have a good smooth road and always start at the same speed in the same spot, you will get very repeatable results easily. You really need a rural road with no homes and low traffic, then you can just chill while your car Cools.
Just you and your data.......Zen Matrix tuning.








