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New Bolt in turbo... FP White Rabbit.

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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 03:39 PM
  #706  
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http://www.mrmoly.com/copaslip.html
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 05:12 PM
  #707  
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Originally Posted by marksae
I use the nickel stuff. RRE carries it. You can order it from Grainger too.
According to the Grainger website, there's one on my way to work. Can I just stop in and buy from them like a store, or are they some kind of distributor only? I'm not familiar with them but they look like an industrial supplier.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by atlvalet
Hey, what insurance are you going to do to your car? Headstuds? Walbro? What, exactly? Thanks.
I have some ARP headstuds that I haven't installed, but I don't plan to install them unless at some point I decide to run 25+ psi. I don't see any reason for them at below those boost levels. I worry more about installing the studs wrong than I do about the stock headbolts giving out at pump gas boost levels. I already have a Walbro pump and 660 injectors so I should be covered on fuel. As far as insurance, this isn't a nitrous system or a GT35R pushing 30 psi. I guess I don't see this as a quantum leap in the amount of strain on the car from what I already have.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 06:07 PM
  #709  
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Originally Posted by superman105
People
come on your buying a 1600 turbo
and you want to save $30 on studs ??!?!?!!!

why ask so much question JUST follow the OE mitsubishi specs. 2 studs/2 bolts
it's proven evo's turbo don't fall off
And it's proven using 4 bolts that the turbo doesn't fall off either, but it makes it alot easier to remove the manifold. So if you are going to pop for new studs, you should get bolts instead.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 06:10 PM
  #710  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
I have some ARP headstuds that I haven't installed, but I don't plan to install them unless at some point I decide to run 25+ psi. I don't see any reason for them at below those boost levels. I worry more about installing the studs wrong than I do about the stock headbolts giving out at pump gas boost levels. I already have a Walbro pump and 660 injectors so I should be covered on fuel. As far as insurance, this isn't a nitrous system or a GT35R pushing 30 psi. I guess I don't see this as a quantum leap in the amount of strain on the car from what I already have.
Dood headstuds are easy and you dont even need to remove the head. Take the valve cover off, and replace each factory bolt with an ARP stud, torque em down, and you're good. Take your time, do it one stud at a time in an inside to outside fashion. Simple hand tools and a rod/bolt stretch gauge or torque wrench if your cheap.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 07:03 PM
  #711  
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Well my Evo is all back together and running with the WR. Its running so rich you can smell the gasoline in the car with the windows down heh. Despite the horribly safe tune its definitely making more power than before at the same boost level (which I had to pull back 20% to get it to previous levels!!). It spools bloody quick, I swear its quicker than stock (given I did just install a lower i/c pipe too). I'm supposed to be tuned at the same place as tcarretti, but they are now booked for the next week Sorry can't give any #s until I can get on a dyno.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 07:14 PM
  #712  
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i still have yet to see where the stock headstuds have failed....

this is like some conspiracy by the ARP vendors to sell 100 bucks worth of bolts
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 07:25 PM
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Ask Mitsuorder about us having to replace his head gasket on the OE studs... and how he is pushing the car harder than ever now with the ARPs, with no more issues of that nature.

I don't sell ARP headstuds... but unless you are a master tuner, anyone not running them might as well start rolling the dice.

I know a man who went to Vegas several times a year... always getting picked up by limos from Casinos wanting to make their money back... his lucky streak lasted about 6 years before he lost his house... It is not an Aesop fable, but you get the meaning.

Last edited by Zeus; Jun 29, 2005 at 07:28 PM.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 07:32 PM
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Alright back on topic here:


What is the wastegate set at? I am assuming it's right around 13-14 just like the stocker.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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Next week we'll be installing a white rabbit on an evo with the HKS EVC V, I'll zero it out and see where the wastegate lets it go.
Old Jun 29, 2005 | 09:45 PM
  #716  
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Originally Posted by Zeus
I'll give you a ride after the 9th... but for the most part, it feels like a stock turbo, surge free, up to about 4-4500rpm. Then more like a smaller GT30.
Cool, looking forward to it! I may swing by your casa this weekend with my sound decibal meter this weekend, if that's ok.
Old Jun 30, 2005 | 04:06 AM
  #717  
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Originally Posted by AustinEVO
Cool, looking forward to it! I may swing by your casa this weekend with my sound decibal meter this weekend, if that's ok.
That's fine... remember I'm generally not available until about 3pm...
Old Jun 30, 2005 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Zeus
Ask Mitsuorder about us having to replace his head gasket on the OE studs... and how he is pushing the car harder than ever now with the ARPs, with no more issues of that nature.

I don't sell ARP headstuds... but unless you are a master tuner, anyone not running them might as well start rolling the dice.
Another factor to take into consideration is that when you install head studs you buy insurance for your head gasket but take away insurance for your pistons.

p.s. Just picked up the 2400 degree Permatex nickel antiseize at Grainger -- $21 for 8 oz.! Ouch!
Old Jun 30, 2005 | 11:52 AM
  #719  
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What kind of #'s has this turbo put down?
Old Jun 30, 2005 | 11:56 AM
  #720  
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There are dyno charts on page 4 or 5 i believe. Take a look.



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