There was never any statement on using bolts on the 02 housing side, just on the exhaust housing to manifold, to allow easier install/removal of the manifold. This is what my original statement read. There were a few that misread that.

To answer the question, it would be easier to use the stock setup on the 02 housing, simply because the 2 studs hold the 02 housing on through installation/removal.

I dont have a problem with using studs, but when I can use bolts instead to make life easier, I do. Work smarter, not harder. You can order the turbo to mani bolts from Mitsu, they are the same as the other 2 bolts used. I've just seen far worse outcomes from using stud/nut setups on the turbo to mani than from using all four bolts. I've seen where the nut 'welds' (as Az3ar puts it) itself to the stud and it basically becomes a bolt anyway because it unthreads the stud from the exh housing, or the nut strips the stud. Then you have to drill out the stud, it's a mess.

 

Hopefully I'll be there with you tuning my WR. UPS has once again screwed me and decided to not deliver my ECU despite it being next day air, so any chances of tuning today are out the window. Man I was hoping to have that 1 day lead on you :-P

 

thanks forced performance for shutting up az3ar!

 

so is there any more reviews on the WR?

 

Just got mine last night. Not installed yet. The compressor wheel is beautiful.

 

HURRY UP & INSTALL THAT BIACTH!!!!!!!!! i want some 91oct results

 

They said use factory bolts and nothing is strong as factory!! did you read??

When i have time later on i will post on how to remove studs from housings in how tos

 

Don't want to jinx myself, but if all goes well I should be ON THE DYNO exactly 24 hours from now. This is the same one that I dynoed on last time with all the same mods EXCEPT the WR turbo.

It's a low reading Mustang. To give you an idea, two months prior I dynoed at FIS with 325 HP and 300 TQ and on this dyno with nothing different dynoed 272 HP and 260 TQ. Quite a difference in numbers. I'm hoping that with the WR turbo on 93 octane I might get anywhere from 330-340 HP which should put me where I want to be. Then and only then, will I unleash the ALCOHOL!!!!!

Waiting sucks ****........

Tony

 

Turbine inlet - skip the studs and purchase two of the OEM bolts that are used. Upon installation use 4 of the OEM bolts instead of 2 studs and 2 bolts. It is easier to use 4 OEM bolts for R&R of the turbo. Studs complicate things, and the OEM bolts are the strongest high carbon nolts you will find anywhere.

can you read this? it has 2 bolts and 2 studs!!!!!!! know you take the 2 studs out and put 2 bolts in there place. DO YOU UNDERSTAND az3ar?

 

People
come on your buying a 1600 turbo
and you want to save $30 on studs ??!?!?!!!

why ask so much question JUST follow the OE mitsubishi specs. 2 studs/2 bolts
it's proven evo's turbo don't fall off

 

Would adding Buschur's external wastegate to this turbo help any?

 

Hey that's race gas money...every little bit counts

Anyhow, on that note, what grade of antiseize do you need on the studs/bolts? It seems like the high temp stuff comes in copper (1800 degrees) and nickel (2400 degrees). The copper is about $4 a can but the nickel is $14 (and hard to find). I'll spend the extra $10 and canvas the area looking for it if I have to, but if I can just use the copper stuff from the local NAPA I'd rather do that.

I'm installing my WR on Saturday morning and am gathering all the miscellaneous junk that I'll need.

Thanks.

 

Hey, what insurance are you going to do to your car? Headstuds? Walbro? What, exactly? Thanks.

 

I use the nickel stuff. RRE carries it. You can order it from Grainger too.

 

copaslip is the best antiseize, hands down.