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New Bolt in turbo... FP White Rabbit.

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Old Jul 10, 2005 | 10:00 AM
  #976  
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Well to give you an idea. I had just made 325 HP and 300 TQ on the dyno at FIS about two months prior to the baseline I did at MZM which was 271 HP and 260 TQ. No changes had been made so there was a difference of 54 HP and 40 TQ right there. Add the 27 more HP from the turbo swap and that makes roughly 352 HP. Don't know what the fixed boost leaked added OR the alcohol injection, but the butt dyno is telling me that something GOOD happened.

Again, once I get it back on the dyno I'll let you know. If anyone out there knows how to figure the difference between a Mustang and a Dynojet feel free to chime in to give some clarity.

Tony
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 10:08 AM
  #977  
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From: NyC
alright
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 10:09 AM
  #978  
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From: NyC
I am just a little anxious. I want to make about 380whp on pump and a little over 400whp with alky
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 11:05 AM
  #979  
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Originally Posted by tcarretti
Again, once I get it back on the dyno I'll let you know. If anyone out there knows how to figure the difference between a Mustang and a Dynojet feel free to chime in to give some clarity.
Tony
A Mustang will usually read lower. It typically ranges from 5-15% depending on the acceleration rate. Every dyno reads differently as well so it would be nearly impossible to figure the difference. The only real way of measuring a difference is to make the mods and do the pulls on the same dyno. Even then temperature change could have an effect (although correction can be done for that as well but still would not be exact). The best thing would be if the dyno would be in a controlled evironment, ie. no temperature change. The car needs to be brought to the same operating temperature each time and allowed to cool off between runs.

Hope that helps answer your question.

Trev
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 11:17 AM
  #980  
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MZM's dyno reads 50-60WHP lower than a regular Mustang dyno. A stock EVO dynos anywhere between 180-202 on their dyno. Quite a few people have dynoed at MZM and then FIS.
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #981  
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From: CT
what's up killa

you gonna get the alley kit also?


Originally Posted by WrX Kila
I am just a little anxious. I want to make about 380whp on pump and a little over 400whp with alky
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 11:41 AM
  #982  
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theres alot of talk here about how much manifold psi the w/r will maintain. since my last post i increased the boost to find out the limits now that i have the tune sorted out. the best set up was a spike of 26 holding 25 to 6500 where it falls to 24.5 as proved by 2 gages and a datalogger. i hope this answers some of your doubts or concernes. i also reccomend this much boost on 91 with alky/water 70/30 in my case can be dangerouse if not tuned very cautiously. overly rich mixtures with too much timing is not conservative. i run 12.0 - 12.5 in the lower gears and 11.5 - 12.0 in the higer gears. the amount of alky and water is very important in achieving success. the stock injectors and head bolts are holding up fine so far. its amazing how much cylinder pressure the stock gasket will hold if you don't detonate. last night i added another 150cc of mix so i can add a couple more degrees of timing and gain even more. i'll be back tuning at the works next week. good luck to all of you i'm looking forward to seeing your dyno results and i'd be glad to post mine. todd
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 11:51 AM
  #983  
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i would like to add one more thing. when pushing the limits with alky safeguards should be in place. i have incorporated a solenoid valve that immediately lowers the boost to 15psi adds as much as 15 percent fuel and retards timing as much as 10 degrees in case of a pump failure. this is my wifes daily driver and there is a baby seat in the back. reliability and driveability are of most importance. happy horsepower hunting. todd
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 12:43 PM
  #984  
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From: GA
Hey todd, what alky kit are you running? Would you like to explain your valve, and how you did it?

Also, are you saying that too high of an A/F ratio with alky and pump isn't safe?
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #985  
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Originally Posted by TurboTodd
this is my wifes daily driver and there is a baby seat in the back. reliability and driveability are of most importance.
Wow. I don't know what else to say.
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 02:12 PM
  #986  
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Just got my wr tuned this weekend and I love it. Spool is identicle to stock and it really shines up top. After riding in several cars at the tune yesterday (272 tme, 272 stock turbo) I would say my car with stock cams has as good if not better topend than the cammed 'stock' turbo cars. The tq / midrange is weaker in my car, but after cams it will be a beast. This turbo does not let up all the way to 7500.

I have no way to compare numbers to my last dyno as it is a 4 hour drive from me, but there are talks of a local dyno day comming soon. Plenty of stock turbo evos with my mods will dyno, and will be good to compare with my car.

-Ben
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 02:48 PM
  #987  
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jeff 55,

using overly rich mixtures to mask too much timing advance will cost you power,response, and reliability. there is a very simplified memo on this on the innovate web site. talk to your tuner for his recomendation. i prefer to start conservative with timing, get afr where it needs to be then start advancing timing to get the most out of your set up. good luck todd
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 03:00 PM
  #988  
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i almost forgot, i made my own boost control to achieve this. the base kit is a snow performance. i modified it to have 2 stages rather than a single stage with a progressive controller. when injecting as much as i am the controller will net an overly rich condition at the onset. 50 percent start doesn't mean 50 flow. it means 50 percent pump pressure which nets about 80 percent flow. i prefer a true 50/50 with 2 nozzels. this is the case when injecting large amounts for the hobbiest that likes to take things a step farther than the average. the first nozzle comes on at 10. the second at 20. boost setting is 25. my flash leans out the tune a little extra at 10 so the afr is only slightly richer. i don't want to take the set-up farther than this i hope it helps you.
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 03:20 PM
  #989  
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well, my car was tuned at about an 11:1 afr on 93 octane pulling some timing out(i run the xede, so i don't know how much timing, its in offsets of the stock ECU)

on my race gas map, my timing was pretty much zeroed out(close to stock) with about an 11:3 a/f. running 26-27psi falling off to 22.

what i did with the alky was run the race gas maps(fuel and timing) and lower the boost to about 24-25psi falling to 22psi. Im running the SMC kit starting to spray at about 12psi and fully spraying at 24.....im thinking this is a bit conservative, but i don't want to take chances until i can get to the dyno.

do you actually put more than stock timing into yours? Will your a/f actually increase with more timing, or will you just need to put more fuel in with the timing? Im a timing noob if you can't tell.

Feel free to PM me with your thoughts and expertise Todd, i appreciate it!

-Jeff
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 05:08 PM
  #990  
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i think if I read of one more car getting tuned without dyno numbers going along with it, they should be banned on site Freaking tease



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