^sounds good to me

 

mobil 1..

 

you know guys ive been using Duralube since that stuff came out,,,, this additive sems to work very well, i used it on all my RC cars and airplanes its give the engine a supper slick surface with less friction and in consecuence less heat,,, i have never tried it on my car but i am going to ,,, you know it might be more theoretical that practical ,,, but i wana see i should help a little the integrity of the turbo to run smother ,,,, will see

 

Amsoil

 

i used 5w-30 full synthetic on my car, started ticking and cause oil pressure light to come on, switched back to 10w-30 been running good for 2k miles.

 

fyi royal purple sucks and as for mobil 1 it foams up quick and breaks down within 1k miles. At least try amsoil like i did you wont be dissapointed, i myself have been mobil 1 all the way but once i tried amsoil im hooked.

 

I have been using the motul since i got my car..temp stays way down...I track and drive my car hard..i look at how its broken down everytime i change it, and it holds up very nice....also seems to keep the car running very smooth...I only pay bout 30 bucks for the oil to do the oil change too...anyone else ever seen any issues with it?...besides maybe being expensive.

 

as for RP sucking - is there a difference between the "Racing 41/51" and the regular 10-30/10-40 etc?

 

Amsoil or nothing.

 

No they aren't. As for the price of the product, the increased cost of synthetics is a bargain as compared to the superior flow at low temp, superior film strength and resistance to oxidation and thermal breakdown. One should never use a conventional oil in these engines.

A daily driver that sees moderate power and rpm should use 5w-30 for colder climates, and 10w-30 for warm climates. This grade will provide adequate long-term protection and best fuel economy.

10w-40 is a better choice for large turbo, higher rpm daily drivers.

All out track or drag race engines would use 15w-50. I've even seen 60 weight used, but . . .


It is, simply because such products don't work as advertised. Do a little research and you'll find an abundance of government action against friction modifier producers for fraudulent advertising.

 

Yes.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

The racing oils have much better protection than the regular RP junk.


I was always a German Castrol 0w30 user on my LS1; M1 was not a good option for that motor since the 30wt is a thin 30 (lowest possible viscosity to get 30wt score) whereas the German Castrol is a very thick 30 wt. What oil is good, however, is entirely unique to each car.

The Evo seems to break down the M1 pretty fast. At 3,000 miles the oil looks pretty dark. I may go to Redline 10w30 and see what change that brings about in the appearance of the oil after 3,000 miles.

I will do an oil analysis after the 3k mark than switch to Redline and do another analysis to check it out... though for $20 for 5quarts of M1, doing an oil change every 2k miles is cheaper than a 3k mile Redline change

 

RP is just a poor product...

As far as Grade of oil... 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-30 Etc... I would look for a high quality PAO Based Synthetic that is formulated for Turbo use and has a high TBN to neutralize acidity.

Some of you may know that I am a Vendor here and offer AMSOIL at the lowest possible price. I have the Lowest Prices Available on all AMSOIL Products, No One Beats my Prices....

Many of you EvoM Members have been keeping me quite busy as of late, Thank You.

There is less than 2 days left on a Special I have going.... Any orders of of over $50.00 Dealer cost will receive the following.... FREE 6 month Preferred Customer Membership, No Sales Tax and a Rebate on your Freight....

These orders MUST BE PLACED no Later than Dec. 28th, 3 PM Eastern Time.... I wil not answer the phone from 3 PM ET until 7PM ET to get orders placed

EMAIL is more efficient.... Toll Free Ordering at 1-877-356-6099

Doc

 

rp 5w30

 

ttt

 

ttt