Absolutely subscribed!

I've read through this entire thread and like most of you I'm excited yet not ready to rush in guns blazing. I was one of those guys looking at getting the 76r for my upgraded option but then this FPRed came on the scene and changed everything. Regardless if it's on Joe's car or a built car, there's enough information out there to make an informed decision about the FPRed. I believe that if a person uses what's been working then it's a no-brainer. The problem (from nay-sayers) is when people try to duplicate efforts (sorry for the military talk) with knock-off parts or parts that haven't been proven or have a sub-par tuner and then make a post about how the FPRed is a bunch of hype. I do like the idea of being in the FPRed's sweet spot as I'm one of those 7200 RPM shifters myself.

Where can I go to do some reading about the manifold?

I've read and compared cams a lot once the AMS testing started. I'm going with the Kelford 272's once the FPRed gets to my door. My only question is do these require springs/retainers? Regardless if they do or not, I think having them would be good for comfort.

 

^^you never know tho the Kelfords might be to aggressive of a cam for the red...only testing well tell

 

What material is used in the Borg Warrner, Turbonetics, and PTE billet wheel turbochargers?

 

If you can use Evo 8 Cosi M2's on a Green with good results, Kelford 272's or GSC S2's should be fine IMHO.

 

This question has probably been asked, but what are the key differences between the FP EVO turbos(white, red, and green) ? For example, what are the Pros and Cons of each, and with what applications would each be better suited for.

Also, what are the flow rates of each turbo?

I have tried this search numerous times, no luck.

Thanks.

john

 

This thread may help you out

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=357576

 

.......

 

 

You beat me to it. Didn't take much of a search to find it.

 

...with a large-radius bit to avoid inducing stress risers.

 

The blade "faces" themselves are left as-cast. The shroud contour (the part of the wheel that dictates the running clearance to the housing) is ground, as are the bearing surfaces and (sometimes) the threads on the shaft.

 

Why cast your logo into a part of the wheel that will never be seen and risk structural integrity?

It's probably a moot point, but just thought I would ask.

I've never seen the back of the wheel after grinding, but even if a large radius bit is used, unless it was a very fine surface finish, or an additional process used to reduce surface roughness, it would be creating stress risers anyway.

 

OEM wheels have a geometric balance band defined as part of the backdisk of the wheel, along with a minimum radius to the bit used to make the balance cuts. In volume production the balance cut is performed robotically.

 

If this is true, that the blade contours are used as cast, then I guess I would call it a cast wheel rather than a billet wheel. Then Jeremy was probably about right when he said "nobody ... mills turbine wheels out of a billet".
It's fine with me either way. I can see how it would be difficult and expensive to mill the blades out of a high temperature steel alloy. Much harder than milling compressor blades from an aluminum billet.

Gary

 

How about 7500-8000rpm? Thats where I will be shifting depending on the gear.