DIY Transmission Re-Build Tips
That's crazy that the fluid isn't abrasive. Super weird.
Jon does mod the synchro's for better shifting, like all the trans shops. They definitely don't shift too great when cold, especially when ambient is below 50*, the trans really has to warm up a bit. I usually let the car idle a few minutes, and just drive it easy for a few miles. Mine have been great otherwise. And once warmed up, it shifts like a dog box at 8k rpms. Execpt the 5th gear grind/crunch is starting to come back now that the trans seen some some abuse; probably close to 15k miles with some track days and plenty of roll races in mexico.
The thickness of the friction would be the same. Only the hub thickness would change, which would not require a different PP.
Jon does mod the synchro's for better shifting, like all the trans shops. They definitely don't shift too great when cold, especially when ambient is below 50*, the trans really has to warm up a bit. I usually let the car idle a few minutes, and just drive it easy for a few miles. Mine have been great otherwise. And once warmed up, it shifts like a dog box at 8k rpms. Execpt the 5th gear grind/crunch is starting to come back now that the trans seen some some abuse; probably close to 15k miles with some track days and plenty of roll races in mexico.
The thickness of the friction would be the same. Only the hub thickness would change, which would not require a different PP.
But does he mod the slider?
If so, this could cause me problems and probably force me to buy new sliders (which would also mean all new syncro's on that slider, instead of just 2&3)
Considering modifying the teeth on the gear, the synchro and the slider is the only way to change the engagement, I would say yes. As to if it will cause issues having a modded slider, but a stock synchro, idk..
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Dec 21, 2016 at 11:07 AM.
I'll check for smooth engagement by hand, but that doesn't really reflect real world situations.
In reality, now that I thought more about it, I don't think the syncro teeth matter. The synchro is locked into the hub, so the synchro and slider are already aligned. Its the teeth on the gear that matter. And you're not replacing gear (hopefully anyways), so you'll be fine.
You can see what I'm talking about half way down on this page.
http://www.teamrip.com/EVO%20limit.html
You can see what I'm talking about half way down on this page.
http://www.teamrip.com/EVO%20limit.html
In reality, now that I thought more about it, I don't think the syncro teeth matter. The synchro is locked into the hub, so the synchro and slider are already aligned. Its the teeth on the gear that matter. And you're not replacing gear (hopefully anyways), so you'll be fine.
You can see what I'm talking about half way down on this page.
http://www.teamrip.com/EVO%20limit.html
You can see what I'm talking about half way down on this page.
http://www.teamrip.com/EVO%20limit.html
So my bearing splitter worked great for everything except the center diff top bearing. It's to small (diff same size as splitter).
I'm using the large splitter from Harbor Freight, does anyone have any other economical suggestions?
I'm trying to avoid cutting it off, but will if I have to
I'm using the large splitter from Harbor Freight, does anyone have any other economical suggestions?
I'm trying to avoid cutting it off, but will if I have to
Yeah, I'm leaning towards cutting it off because I cannot find a big enough splitter locally, and the extra large splitters on Amazon are over $150...
Where did you get your splitter, is it a 6-8" splitter?
Where did you get your splitter, is it a 6-8" splitter?
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 143
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From: SF Bay Area
So my bearing splitter worked great for everything except the center diff top bearing. It's to small (diff same size as splitter).
I'm using the large splitter from Harbor Freight, does anyone have any other economical suggestions?
I'm trying to avoid cutting it off, but will if I have to
I'm using the large splitter from Harbor Freight, does anyone have any other economical suggestions?
I'm trying to avoid cutting it off, but will if I have to
Idk, its what my dad has in the shop. I had a typo, I couldn't* get one that worked...lol
I tried putting the bearing puller/splitter around the upper lip, the lip just broke off..
Roger that, I'll just cut it off carefully.
If you cut most of the way through, you can crack it with a good cold chisel and solid hammer. That's what I did. That way you don't have to worry about cutting into the diff housing.
