Instead of removing the valve cover, drilling, tapping, etc. you could just use the Hal's oil cap adapter, which allows you up to 2 10AN fittings and goes right where your stock oil cap goes. Takes no time to install, no mods to the valve cover, and gives you great venting options. It's a no brainer...

 

Yes but the HAL's still has to be plumed back into the oil pan...

 

Any inside pics of HAL's cap??

 

the only thing that helped me is the vacuum pump,so -10 fittings on the valve cover to the canister and then the pump. Worked great no more crazy blow crankcase pressure.

 

Vacuum pump ? Can you please elaborate on what you did and how you plumbed your setup ?

 

+1
ingenuis but it has to be ugly as

 

Think so? Here's one, polished They can be made with either one or two AN fittings as well, so a lot of venting capacity...

You can connect them to any catch can you have, or recirculate the oil through a fitting or through a (brazed or welded) connection on the dipstick tube, like Buschur's catch can setup does...

 

check this out Tcompusa...
crank case vacuum created from exhaust system flow. (you'll need to register and log in).

http://www.v-eight.com/tech_forum/vi...sd=a&start=330

http://www.v-eight.com/tech_forum/vi...sd=a&start=450

Read the rest of the thread if you are into engineering, very very cool.
NA toyota V8 (1UZ and 2UZ) in a JZA80 Supra.

 

to much oil will escape with that cap. ive asked numorous guys that run it. the evo valve cover doesn't have enough baffle at the oil pan area.

im not contaminating my oil anymore then it already is either.. its bad enough e85 dilutes it. the only way its safe to run that cap is if you recirculate back to block via balance shaft inspection hole or other means.. not recirculating blowby contaminated oil / fuel back through my engine not gonna happen.

if you add extra baffling that cap might be ok to put back to a can tho.


dont get me wrong, id love to run that cap instead of drilling holes in my valve cover, but i cant risk it overly shooting oil
out of my motor just because i dont want to recirculate it back to block. I already had a motor die on me once from oil
starvation, im not trying to do it again!

 

some guy on dsmtuners has that setup also. where it uses the exhaust to suck out the crankcase pressure.

btw these map/kracka crankcase check valves are garbage.. i just tested both and they dont hold for ****, they are leaking. guess i need to return them.

 

yeah looks like i was right on both counts

 

i think your wise too

 

if you're on stock block and can drive around without popping your dipstick without any retention on the dipstick then i can recommend Hal's cap to you, because if you arent popping the dipstick i doubt its gonna spew oil..

on my setup it would spew almost a quart of oil i bet from just one session of me beating the crap out of my car.. i am extremely rough on my car. i put every modification to work. the only thing i dont do is launch the car.

ive had a few 600whp+ evo guys msg me saying if im not going to recirculate that cap not to run it because it works to well, it will release to much oil.

Just trying to warn people before they find out the hard way. If you run mostly 93oct it probably wont even make much difference recirculating the catch can back to the block, i bet its equiv to how much e85 contaminates the oil by itself. just make sure you drain back from the bottom of the can and make sure the can does not allow any oil to get stuck in it or youll be recirculating back sludge.

 

Lots of good info in this thread...glad I subscribed....

 

with all this talk about fuel diluting and contaminating the oil, i thought it evaporates off?
fuel and ethanol boils below the water boiling point, shouldn't it just boil off?