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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #196  
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Just to further educate our competition...........

The 6 bolt cranks were the only Mitsubishi cranks that went through nitriding.

The EVO cranks are not surface hardened, so turning the crank, when done properly has no effect on the longevity of the crank shaft or bearings. Actually, I'd say that a crank shaft we turn and polish will outlast a standard crank from Mitsubishi. We will however not use a crank that has to be cleaned up more than .010. Less than that and they go to the scrap yard, there are quite a few companies out there turning them .020 and I've not seen a single one come in that has held up. With that said, I wouldn't be in the engine if it wasn't junk already. The majority of the crank/bearing problems I do see from OTHER SHOPS are on turned cranks.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 03:45 AM
  #197  
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thanks for the crank advise. What do you think the block, seems like i can pick up a JDM GDI 2.4 4G64 block which has oil squirt ?
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 08:38 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
Dave,
Are the journals induction hardened?
Originally Posted by davidbuschur

The EVO cranks are not surface hardened...The majority of the crank/bearing problems I do see from OTHER SHOPS are on turned cranks.

David,

Every turned crank motor I have ever seen ends up with bearing problems. I am thinking that there must be something in common with all of them, is this a machining process error in your opinion?

aaron
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 09:21 AM
  #199  
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From: milwaukee, wi
If someone has a scrap crank i can check a good journal for hardness, grind one down and check for hardness again.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:07 PM
  #200  
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I'd have to say based on testing the hardness that it has to be a machining problem. We ship a lot of engines from here, I'd venture to guess more than any other one shop, just a guess. At this point finding perfect stock cranks is tough. I know we've got over 200 EVO engines out there with 10/10 cranks in them, seeing one of them come back is non-existent.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 01:22 PM
  #201  
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From: Sanford, FL!!!
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
I'd have to say based on testing the hardness that it has to be a machining problem. We ship a lot of engines from here, I'd venture to guess more than any other one shop, just a guess. At this point finding perfect stock cranks is tough. I know we've got over 200 EVO engines out there with 10/10 cranks in them, seeing one of them come back is non-existent.
10/10 in our 6 bolt RWD car - same motor 4 years later, finally back on the track ran 8.36 I think.

Turning cranks is an art, it is the ONLY service we do not offer in house - it is very complicated and very expensive to do right. Once you found a good shop - you have it made.

Measure twice, install once.

Dave - don't you have some snow to shovel? It feels like its going to snow in FL!

Mike H.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #202  
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Not enough snow yet. I was hoping the storm was going to take the power out for at least a week.....hasn't happened yet.
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 12:36 AM
  #203  
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Have a 4g64 crank for sale! I just picked up from awdmotorsports. I dont need it anymore because i'm now doing a 2.1L build.
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #204  
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Is it reliable and safe to go on 4G64 with 87.5mm bore ?
If yes the 87mm cometic phuzion head gasket will fit or where to find 87.5 head gasket ?
With the water pump adapter/spacer the 4g63 timing belt is ok ?
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #205  
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From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by VGergo
Is it reliable and safe to go on 4G64 with 87.5mm bore ?
If yes the 87mm cometic phuzion head gasket will fit or where to find 87.5 head gasket ?
With the water pump adapter/spacer the 4g63 timing belt is ok ?
100mm crank is perfect for a 2.4 setup boss im using one. I dont recommend cosmetic hg as i hear nothing but issues with leaking etc. Get either a powerenterprises hg or AMS custom OEM 2.4 HG. As for the timing belt yes it works with the water pump adapter. I just got a 4g64 belt from slowboy but you can use regular 4g63

Last edited by RockmanX; Dec 16, 2010 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:38 PM
  #206  
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okay and what about the 87.5mm bore ?
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #207  
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87.5mm starts making both the cylinder wall and the space between them (headgasket sealing) awful thin. We try going the other way and keeping the bore at 86.5mm as much as possible.
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #208  
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From: VaBeach, VA
Originally Posted by JohnBradley
87.5mm starts making both the cylinder wall and the space between them (headgasket sealing) awful thin. We try going the other way and keeping the bore at 86.5mm as much as possible.
Agreed on 86.5, even 87mm can be a pain for headgasket sealing!

Mikey
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
87.5mm starts making both the cylinder wall and the space between them (headgasket sealing) awful thin. We try going the other way and keeping the bore at 86.5mm as much as possible.

Yes, I'm afraid from the headgasket too... I made some calculation.

2.3 also can go with 86mm bore and 100mm crank = 2324ccm
2.4 100mm and 86.5 mm bore = 2351ccm

That 27ccm is not so much Is it really worth it ? Ok I know the advantage of the 156mm long rod also there but really need if you will rev 7500rpm ? I dont think so a 3076 or similiar size bolt on turbo can make the peak hp over that rpm.
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #210  
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Do we know how much heavier the longer 156mm rod ?
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