2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 motors / strokers
Anyone have any insight into doing the timing belt on a 2.1? I've got a MAP 2.1l and will be putting the head on soon. The head has Comp 280s w/ adjustable gears and the cams were degree'd by the previous owner. The only info I've been able to dig up is just that they need to be degree'd and thats about it.
I'm just wondering too building a 2.3 or 2.4 and mivec head engine from an Evo 8 engine.
Ofcourse I know the 2.4 is better but hard decision because i have a good condition 4g63 block. But building a 2.4 mivec non of my parts need anymore from the oem 2.0 setup so I can sell the complete longblock.
The aim is as fast spool up as the stock engine stock evo9 turbo doing now with near 500/500 power level on E85 or 400/400 on european 100oct pump gas and dont push the turbo or the tune on the limit. Leave in some safety band.
Basically it will be DD car with more fun
Sometimes amateur rally- auto x and like this and not for drag racing. On turbo thinking on the hta green, red 84mm, maybe the black or the new HKS. I'm really excite what will the dyno show with the other topic car the 2.4 and BB convert fpblack
Engine internal, I like the maperformance package with oem crank, map rods, the wider 6g bearings and wiseco hd pistons. It coud be a great combo for the price.
But what's up with reliableity ? In average these kind of built engines coud last as long as the stock on the same usage ? I heard that need to pay more attention on the rod bearings and after certain miles drop in new one, cost much less and simple work than a new engine. Any other known problem ?
If not the MAP engine internal i calculate with a more expensive options, the manley billet turbo stuff crank and aluminium rods. At my aim power level thinking on these more expensive parts or just go with the oem crank map rods combo ? Are the aluminium rods as good for dd driving, rally, some track days as the steel ? I know the weight is much less, the price is near the same as good steel one but will last as long too ? Or basically they are designed to 1/4 miles race high power rated 700whp++ engine ?
Ofcourse I know the 2.4 is better but hard decision because i have a good condition 4g63 block. But building a 2.4 mivec non of my parts need anymore from the oem 2.0 setup so I can sell the complete longblock.
The aim is as fast spool up as the stock engine stock evo9 turbo doing now with near 500/500 power level on E85 or 400/400 on european 100oct pump gas and dont push the turbo or the tune on the limit. Leave in some safety band.
Basically it will be DD car with more fun
Sometimes amateur rally- auto x and like this and not for drag racing. On turbo thinking on the hta green, red 84mm, maybe the black or the new HKS. I'm really excite what will the dyno show with the other topic car the 2.4 and BB convert fpblack Engine internal, I like the maperformance package with oem crank, map rods, the wider 6g bearings and wiseco hd pistons. It coud be a great combo for the price.
But what's up with reliableity ? In average these kind of built engines coud last as long as the stock on the same usage ? I heard that need to pay more attention on the rod bearings and after certain miles drop in new one, cost much less and simple work than a new engine. Any other known problem ?
If not the MAP engine internal i calculate with a more expensive options, the manley billet turbo stuff crank and aluminium rods. At my aim power level thinking on these more expensive parts or just go with the oem crank map rods combo ? Are the aluminium rods as good for dd driving, rally, some track days as the steel ? I know the weight is much less, the price is near the same as good steel one but will last as long too ? Or basically they are designed to 1/4 miles race high power rated 700whp++ engine ?
I'm just wondering too building a 2.3 or 2.4 and mivec head engine from an Evo 8 engine.
Ofcourse I know the 2.4 is better but hard decision because i have a good condition 4g63 block. But building a 2.4 mivec non of my parts need anymore from the oem 2.0 setup so I can sell the complete longblock.
The aim is as fast spool up as the stock engine stock evo9 turbo doing now with near 500/500 power level on E85 or 400/400 on european 100oct pump gas and dont push the turbo or the tune on the limit. Leave in some safety band.
Basically it will be DD car with more fun Sometimes amateur rally- auto x and like this and not for drag racing. On turbo thinking on the hta green, red 84mm, maybe the black or the new HKS. I'm really excite what will the dyno show with the other topic car the 2.4 and BB convert fpblack
Engine internal, I like the maperformance package with oem crank, map rods, the wider 6g bearings and wiseco hd pistons. It coud be a great combo for the price.
But what's up with reliableity ? In average these kind of built engines coud last as long as the stock on the same usage ? I heard that need to pay more attention on the rod bearings and after certain miles drop in new one, cost much less and simple work than a new engine. Any other known problem ?
If not the MAP engine internal i calculate with a more expensive options, the manley billet turbo stuff crank and aluminium rods. At my aim power level thinking on these more expensive parts or just go with the oem crank map rods combo ? Are the aluminium rods as good for dd driving, rally, some track days as the steel ? I know the weight is much less, the price is near the same as good steel one but will last as long too ? Or basically they are designed to 1/4 miles race high power rated 700whp++ engine ?
Ofcourse I know the 2.4 is better but hard decision because i have a good condition 4g63 block. But building a 2.4 mivec non of my parts need anymore from the oem 2.0 setup so I can sell the complete longblock.
The aim is as fast spool up as the stock engine stock evo9 turbo doing now with near 500/500 power level on E85 or 400/400 on european 100oct pump gas and dont push the turbo or the tune on the limit. Leave in some safety band.
Basically it will be DD car with more fun
Sometimes amateur rally- auto x and like this and not for drag racing. On turbo thinking on the hta green, red 84mm, maybe the black or the new HKS. I'm really excite what will the dyno show with the other topic car the 2.4 and BB convert fpblack Engine internal, I like the maperformance package with oem crank, map rods, the wider 6g bearings and wiseco hd pistons. It coud be a great combo for the price.
But what's up with reliableity ? In average these kind of built engines coud last as long as the stock on the same usage ? I heard that need to pay more attention on the rod bearings and after certain miles drop in new one, cost much less and simple work than a new engine. Any other known problem ?
If not the MAP engine internal i calculate with a more expensive options, the manley billet turbo stuff crank and aluminium rods. At my aim power level thinking on these more expensive parts or just go with the oem crank map rods combo ? Are the aluminium rods as good for dd driving, rally, some track days as the steel ? I know the weight is much less, the price is near the same as good steel one but will last as long too ? Or basically they are designed to 1/4 miles race high power rated 700whp++ engine ?
I'm just wondering too building a 2.3 or 2.4 and mivec head engine from an Evo 8 engine.
Ofcourse I know the 2.4 is better but hard decision because i have a good condition 4g63 block. But building a 2.4 mivec non of my parts need anymore from the oem 2.0 setup so I can sell the complete longblock.
The aim is as fast spool up as the stock engine stock evo9 turbo doing now with near 500/500 power level on E85 or 400/400 on european 100oct pump gas and dont push the turbo or the tune on the limit. Leave in some safety band.
Basically it will be DD car with more fun Sometimes amateur rally- auto x and like this and not for drag racing. On turbo thinking on the hta green, red 84mm, maybe the black or the new HKS. I'm really excite what will the dyno show with the other topic car the 2.4 and BB convert fpblack
Engine internal, I like the maperformance package with oem crank, map rods, the wider 6g bearings and wiseco hd pistons. It coud be a great combo for the price.
But what's up with reliableity ? In average these kind of built engines coud last as long as the stock on the same usage ? I heard that need to pay more attention on the rod bearings and after certain miles drop in new one, cost much less and simple work than a new engine. Any other known problem ?
If not the MAP engine internal i calculate with a more expensive options, the manley billet turbo stuff crank and aluminium rods. At my aim power level thinking on these more expensive parts or just go with the oem crank map rods combo ? Are the aluminium rods as good for dd driving, rally, some track days as the steel ? I know the weight is much less, the price is near the same as good steel one but will last as long too ? Or basically they are designed to 1/4 miles race high power rated 700whp++ engine ?
Ofcourse I know the 2.4 is better but hard decision because i have a good condition 4g63 block. But building a 2.4 mivec non of my parts need anymore from the oem 2.0 setup so I can sell the complete longblock.
The aim is as fast spool up as the stock engine stock evo9 turbo doing now with near 500/500 power level on E85 or 400/400 on european 100oct pump gas and dont push the turbo or the tune on the limit. Leave in some safety band.
Basically it will be DD car with more fun
Sometimes amateur rally- auto x and like this and not for drag racing. On turbo thinking on the hta green, red 84mm, maybe the black or the new HKS. I'm really excite what will the dyno show with the other topic car the 2.4 and BB convert fpblack Engine internal, I like the maperformance package with oem crank, map rods, the wider 6g bearings and wiseco hd pistons. It coud be a great combo for the price.
But what's up with reliableity ? In average these kind of built engines coud last as long as the stock on the same usage ? I heard that need to pay more attention on the rod bearings and after certain miles drop in new one, cost much less and simple work than a new engine. Any other known problem ?
If not the MAP engine internal i calculate with a more expensive options, the manley billet turbo stuff crank and aluminium rods. At my aim power level thinking on these more expensive parts or just go with the oem crank map rods combo ? Are the aluminium rods as good for dd driving, rally, some track days as the steel ? I know the weight is much less, the price is near the same as good steel one but will last as long too ? Or basically they are designed to 1/4 miles race high power rated 700whp++ engine ?
For runing Mivec head on 4g64 what further adapter need to purchase ? What is your suggestion on the headgasket ?
Last edited by VGergo; Dec 9, 2010 at 08:09 AM.
We pick up good condition ones most of the time already in blocks so we have matching crank/blocks, and we mic them to make sure they are within spec and we polish and balance them. Any cranks that are cut are thrown away, we won't used cut cranks in house.
Mivec head on 4g64 block you need the oil line adapter which we sell and a water pump adapter/spacer.
Mivec head on 4g64 block you need the oil line adapter which we sell and a water pump adapter/spacer.
Anyone have any insight into doing the timing belt on a 2.1? I've got a MAP 2.1l and will be putting the head on soon. The head has Comp 280s w/ adjustable gears and the cams were degree'd by the previous owner. The only info I've been able to dig up is just that they need to be degree'd and thats about it.
We pick up good condition ones most of the time already in blocks so we have matching crank/blocks, and we mic them to make sure they are within spec and we polish and balance them. Any cranks that are cut are thrown away, we won't used cut cranks in house.
Mivec head on 4g64 block you need the oil line adapter which we sell and a water pump adapter/spacer.
Mivec head on 4g64 block you need the oil line adapter which we sell and a water pump adapter/spacer.
That means that the bearing mating surfaces have been machined or "cut" down due to scarring on the bearing surface. These generally turn into bearing eating machines...due to messing with the hardening that the bearing surfaces go through and the machining basically taking that hardened portion of material off...
