Ive never run a 2.4L that high.. I dont think the walls are an issue on them though.. 720whp and didnt have any wall issues.. HG we use AMS 87mm..

Mike

 

alright well i have multiple styles of tuning i can post up here. some have a vicious torque spike then it drops and some have a flat torque curve that holds until redline. ill post what i have now and what i had prior.

this is now: http://oi53.tinypic.com/1zwnu5t.jpg

and this is before: ( no idea what boost this was) http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2wcfhah&s=7
and this is titled 33psi http://oi55.tinypic.com/2im135v.jpg

on last motor it was maxed around 655whp i think new one will max around 665. i lack a few mods that can make more power tho so keep that in mind.

the current tune above is what im running and it hits 32psi by 3800rpm which is the boost target im running right now. i really dont think you can get a more responsive setup then mine with a 68lb/min turbo.

 

 

Not sure what i am looking at here.. The 1st link has a 1.09 correction.. the 2nd is VDR or something i guess.. anything from a dynojet to compare to mine??

Mike

 

Heres mine...its on Davids mustang dyno though.

 

the ones Virtual Dyno which reads identical to the other one which is Data Log Labs (DLL). the only other useful thing i can provide is a log of the spoolup from the map sensor logging. both read identical to dynojet. ive confirmed virtual dyno is dead on, and sometimes reads lower then real life dynojet from 3-4 guys ive tuned so far that had been tuned on dynojets with the same boost, timing, fuel, mods, etc. basically guys that needed their tunes cleaned up from weather changes.

I haven't gotten the car on a real dyno yet again, but full boost at 3800rpm is enough to make me happy with my tune. i want to turn the boost up but i cant because im already having so much crankcase pressure that its actually pushing oil up through the return line and its causing it to leak out of the vband on the turbo, so before i do anything else i have to get my crankcase pressure issue fixed first.

if you have any good advice to give regarding that feel free to post in the thread i made regarding the problem

 

Here is the closest comparison i could find without going to the dyno and digging up a sheet with 3 less psi.. Aside from where your car makes boost at which i would have to put a line on mine to see exact # on our dyno..

The 2.4L is making 500ft lbs of TQ at 4500rpm vs yours at near 6k.. Also look at HP mine is at 525whp at 5k vs yours at 475whp @ 5k.. yours is at 590 @ 7k and ours is at 600 before 6k.. 1000 RPM sooner..

AWD Bastard FP Black Setup.. EVO IX.. Buschur 2.4L.. Disregard the RED Dyno line.. That was on KILL MODE.. LOL

 

do you have the mod list for that car? because im still on the stock style intake manifold and stock style exhaust manifold, and maf and invidia o2.

the blue line (fast1.csv) was 30.9479psi so im only at 31psi.

I imagine if i was running almost 35psi i would gain way more power also then i have now. i usually see almost 15whp per psi with my car. so not a fair comparison. and if i spike to 35 it will hold more boost throughout the entire curve.

have you ever seen mikeys 2.4 and fp black dyno sheet at 25psi? over 600whp.

also isnt the awd bastard the one that holds the fp black record?

 

This was before the bastard had anything spectacular on it..

Stock intake mani, tb and exhaust mani.. still on MAF, No speed density, no big ignition etc.. stock fuel rail, 1200cc injectors, double pumper.. Nothing fancy..

Mikey build wasnt put together with POS parts like the bastard when we used the black.. it wasnt high compression or long rod and had m2 cams and nothing to make any spectacular power.. Im just comparing to your 2.3L so you can see how the 2.4L makes power..

I can find a 32psi sheet and compare to yours if you like.. its clear with 3psi your not moving your powerband backwards 1000rpm..

Mike

 

ya id be interested in seeing it. seems like theres a lot more to have in the 2.4 then unless you guys have a better head or something? what is making all the additional power?

 

Sure the 2.0 is obviously an awesome route, you get to keep the same block that came in the car stock feeling motor but being built you can rev it to the moon. Thats what I would have done however I threw a rod through the block and it would be crazy for me or anyone else who damaged their block to go and buy a 2.0 block because the cost would be outrageousI started a thread called 2.1 vs 2.4 because I was torn between the two and couldn't decide which to go with. They both are great builds. I'm runnin an FP Red right now and at first I wanted to go with the 2.4 which would be perfect for my CURRENT setup but, after awhile I might decide that I want to get a bigger turbo setup and for that the capabilities and advantages of a 2.1 excede the 2.4. Yeah the 2.4 is a great setup for daily driven vehicles or if your going to be doing road course/autocross but really is it? The best Rod ratio from the two is the 2.1. So in theory the 2.1 would last longer under the same amount of stress. Im not ******* either build and I think it/s a toss up. Just pick one and stick with it
Heres the link to my thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...4-stroker.html

 

i agree with you midnightevo8. if i had to buy a block id do a 2.4 also. better balanced, higher reving, and cheaper. i think the only thing required for 2.4 is the modified hg and the 4g64 timing belt and waterpump, other then that its the same ****. correct me if im wrong. i watched the 4g eclipse guys put evo heads on their 4g64's back in like 2003.

 

4g63 timing belt works as does the waterpump with just a little spacer.. for future reference..

Mike

 

I guess i'm one of the few left building a 2.0 for my street machine haha

 

Stock head at that point.. wasnt ported until we went up in power and big turbo.. a tight built 2.4L when right can make insane power as i said.. this motor made 100whp more lb for lb of boost on the black vs. the 2.0L..

Mike