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2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 motors / strokers

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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #61  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by AWD Motorsports
Stock head at that point.. wasnt ported until we went up in power and big turbo.. a tight built 2.4L when right can make insane power as i said.. this motor made 100whp more lb for lb of boost on the black vs. the 2.0L..

Mike
ya that is amazing. thats insane power for all those stock parts.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:46 PM
  #62  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by AWD Motorsports
4g63 timing belt works as does the waterpump with just a little spacer.. for future reference..

Mike
cats out of the bag now


NO more fancy cnc'd spacers and double gaskets.

When i did my tbelt and the spacer fell out.. i was like.. wtf is this?! Took me a good 20 mins to figure out where it came from.

Any my 2.4 sounds quite healthy at 8500.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:35 PM
  #63  
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Building a 9.5:1 2.4 right now. Good info here thanks.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:53 PM
  #64  
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i wish there was more people running 2.2L. Right alot of great info here, i to want to keep the 63 block so its either 2.2 or 2.3 for me
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 02:43 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Midnightevo8
Sure the 2.0 is obviously an awesome route, you get to keep the same block that came in the car stock feeling motor but being built you can rev it to the moon. Thats what I would have done however I threw a rod through the block and it would be crazy for me or anyone else who damaged their block to go and buy a 2.0 block because the cost would be outrageousI started a thread called 2.1 vs 2.4 because I was torn between the two and couldn't decide which to go with. They both are great builds. I'm runnin an FP Red right now and at first I wanted to go with the 2.4 which would be perfect for my CURRENT setup but, after awhile I might decide that I want to get a bigger turbo setup and for that the capabilities and advantages of a 2.1 excede the 2.4. Yeah the 2.4 is a great setup for daily driven vehicles or if your going to be doing road course/autocross but really is it? The best Rod ratio from the two is the 2.1. So in theory the 2.1 would last longer under the same amount of stress. Im not ******* either build and I think it/s a toss up. Just pick one and stick with it
Heres the link to my thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...4-stroker.html
Yeah I agree also, if I had to buy a block it more then likely woulda made the choice between the 2.4 and the 2.3 easy. But honestly I am completely happy with my 2.3. Similar to the dyno mike put up my car is on stock intake mani, stock exhaust mani, MAF, stock ignition, stock fuel rail, 1200cc injectors and double pumper. I may go a little more extreme in the future but its already gonna be a little wild to autocross it...I may just have to run on 91oct for awhile.

You can't go wrong on either build honestly, reputable shop and quality parts and your gonna make really good power, bottom line.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 03:32 AM
  #66  
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From: wichita ks
Originally Posted by Teal2nnr
I guess i'm one of the few left building a 2.0 for my street machine haha
I'm with ya I don't have to worry about HG, spacers or nothing like that. So the strokers have a little more power 1000 RPM before me....while they are in 3rd gear shifting to 4th I am still in 2nd gear (just a little exaggeration) making power.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 03:54 AM
  #67  
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^^^ not unless you run into a guy like me with the 4.11 gears and 600hp to pull those gear's.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 04:15 AM
  #68  
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From: Fort Riley, KS
Hows that working out for you Shark? I have considered doing 4.11s myself.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 04:36 AM
  #69  
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^+1 on the 4.11 gears... I take it you are running it on a 2.3??? How is it compared to the stock Final drive?
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 08:30 AM
  #70  
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So what should the redline be set to on a 2.4 standard rod with OEM 2.4 crank? That seems as if it has always been up in the air on these forums...
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 08:31 AM
  #71  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
So what should the redline be set to on a 2.4 standard rod with OEM 2.4 crank? That seems as if it has always been up in the air on these forums...
from what i gather, same as a 2.3L. 8,500 on kill and 8,000 on a daily basis.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:06 AM
  #72  
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SO to go to 2.3 all thats needed is a stroker "kit" 100mm crank. some pistons, and rods and bearings and gaskets and yada yada
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #73  
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From: Australia
Originally Posted by Yamahar1
So the strokers have a little more power 1000 RPM before me....while they are in 3rd gear shifting to 4th I am still in 2nd gear (just a little exaggeration) making power.
and this is why the smaller motor wins at drag racing. It can run at higher rpm staying in the lower gear longer which multiplies torque accelerating the car faster.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #74  
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From: Jersey Shore
Originally Posted by JC evo1
and this is why the smaller motor wins at drag racing. It can run at higher rpm staying in the lower gear longer which multiplies torque accelerating the car faster.
not a fan of strokers.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #75  
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So then what is the ultimate road race motor (especially with class considerations)????

With groups like NASA you run on a hp/wt ratio, but tq. is unlimited! You also need a motor that can take being run at 10/10th's for 35-40 minutes wheel-to-wheel or 8/10's for hours in an enduro.

Is it possible to build a (relatively) bulletproof safely-tuned 370 hp motor that can produce gobs (400++) of tq. and last 2-3 seasons without a rebuild
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