Here is a link to the video of mine. As you can tell it is much louder and more pronounced.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...ng_2389802.htm

 

wow, yeah yours was definitely much more audible. I'll probably give the leakdown test a try first at this point. Compression numbers with the engine warm were 149-149-149-135. So it's definitely something funky within the 4th cylinders side of the motor.

kind of a side note, but at the moment my BOV has been sticking open at idle and beyond. Could the PCV valve be popping open back and forth making that clicking noise because the air in the system isn't sealed? i'm awaiting a new flange for the new bov and will go from there.

 

So have ever figured it out??

 

I've had a bad tapping sound for months also (I have a thread somewhere but this will be the best thing to read) and one day I did a WOT pull and it went BOOM CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK.....Changed the lifters and even bearings and did not fix it. This is what I did..DO THIS!! Take out all your spark plugs, pick your suspected cylinder that you think that has the problem, or just do them all. Get a LONG screwdriver, or a stiff steel rod or something to stick through the spark plug hole and let it rest on the piston....So when you spin the crank over with a ratchet you can see the piston moving up and down. Put a ratchet on the crank and turn it either direction but keep spinning it and once you see the piston is on it's way down (from being at the highest point) then STOP turning the crank, stopping it when its 3/4 of the way down would prob be better than like 1/4 of the way down because of the rod angle and having more play but if its bad enough to hear a knocking noise you should notice it either way you try it..Now put your hand on the top of the screwdriver or whatever and now push down on it! If you feel a delay between your hand moving to push it down and when it stops moving then you have a bad wristpin bearing (like I did) or a bad rod bearing. This is how I found out my Manley wrist pin bushing was bad! There should not be any delay or movement when you push down on the screwdriver/rod.

 

I like this idea a lot but aren't you only supposed to manually turn the crank in the correct direction. I thought I remembered reading opposite manual rotation of the crank can mess stuff up.

 

I've never done long winded turns in the wrong direction but when doing the timing I have cranked backwards to fine align my belt. I don't see why that would hurt your engine .

 

Maybe a more seasoned vet can chime in, the YouTube video with the guy changing his cams even says specifically do not rotate in the wrong direction too.

 

Check the timing belt and tensioner setup also this may not be a motor issue but could be transmission related. Was the clutch changed? Was the clutch throw out bearing changed to stock? What kind of clutch was used if so? Could also be input shaft bearings. This motor has no valve lash adjustments so if the motor is stock you should not have a horrible noise like your saying unless it is a rod bearing. Do a compression and leak down test. You need to give feed back on your discoveries for further assistance.

 

You guys kill me...all I can do is laugh. The car in the vid definitely has issues and you start is over and over again revving away. Pull the VC and check there first for valve related issues like broken spring, dropped retainers , dropped rockers. From the vid you have knock down low that goes away at speed sounds like rod knock all the way as when oil pressure drops the rods knock and pressure drops as the bearings continue to wear. Lastly, if you don't know, a vid is great but having someone with plenty of experience look at it up front before you do more damage by making a video and continuing to circulate bearing throughout the motor or pound the crap our of your head with broken valve train parts... This car needs more than a leak down test. good luck my friend.

 

Well if the thread was read correctly it appears to be almost a year old and it was stated that lifters were replaced and motor has been gone through a few times. I do agree that this needs to be looked at up close and not threw a video. But for comments like that you should try and help the guy out and not criticize. How does the car run? Does it run smooth with just the noise or is it stumbling? A dumped out rocker would make noise all the time not just with in a rpm parameter.

 

I dunno if this helps, but I developed a tick when I was running way too lean, my fuel injector seals/insulators had leaks and also I had vacuum leak, and a leaner AFR programmed into the rom. I think it was ticking and misfiring from being way too lean. But yea, it was the typical idle and low rpm ticking and misfires, in the higher rpms it would get rich enough to be normal.


When I fixed the leaks and enriched the AFR the ticking started going away and it's pretty much normal now.


It was hard to pinpoint because there wasn't really knock showing on the logs. I had to just feel it out and figure it out on my own.

 

I'm not quite sure which video you are referring to, if it's mine or the other guys. The thing is, is that I was told by my engine builder/tuner to keep an eye on it, not really to worry about it. I worry about it because it's irritating, sounds like crap and worries me. I've been trying to figure it out but seems nobody can give me an answer. had the valve cover off about 3-4 times now for various people.

 

I think I may have a similar problem. Car is bone stock. Noise became noticeable after changing the oil (castrol 10w30/orelys filter). Assumed a bad lifter and had them all replaced with topline's. Taping/ticking is still fairly audible above 2,5-3k.

 

Hassan, did you ever figure out what the problem was?