Kinugawa 25g turbo thread
Precision 1000cc, 255lph in-tank pump, and stock rail, regulator and lines. But Im also on 91 pump ****.
btw, with my stroker, I start seeing boost as low as 2500 rpm! Stock head and intake manifold and still 9:1 CR.
btw, with my stroker, I start seeing boost as low as 2500 rpm! Stock head and intake manifold and still 9:1 CR.
So far not yet. Been having quite the issue with vibrations from two things. The solid avid mounts were a bad idea. Simply put, they transfer far too much harmonics through the chassis and produce vibration reflex which loosens bolts and shakes things far too much. But at the same time, with a balanced motor one would not have to worry much about that considering balanced motors dont vibrate on a horrible level.....so, Im quickly finding that what seems to be an improperly balanced or half-assed balanced motor. The machine shop said they did it but I didnt notice any new drill holes on the crank or any in the pistons that indicated it had material added or removed. This causes a slew of problems that arent evident upon the first say 1000 miles or so. Currently Im at nearly 1700 miles on this motor and it has tried to remove its on flywheel twice, shaken a motor mount bolt loose, and caused excessive looseness in the interior. As soon as I get the car back to Utah Im tossing these mounts and tearing the motor down to inspect her guts. Im worried honestly they rushed through their portion (the machine shop) and now Im stuck paying for it.
Im beyond pissed right now. Just look at these bearings! And like I said only 1700miles on them right now. I KNOW something didnt get done now.

rod #1

rod #2

rod #3

rod #4

Now of course number 4 looks the worst because of the flywheel's vibration once it begins to loosen. Problem is, the flywheel shouldn't come loose, but the vibration from the imbalance has got to be whats making my flywheel bolts back out. The first time I installed the flywheel was during my build when I reused the stock bolts and made sure to apply loctite to them and torqued them to 90ft/lbs. About 1000miles later they backed out, all but two. The second time I installed ARP bolts with loctite and torqued them to 110ft/lbs and now they are backing out again. This time not as horribly as the last but its only been 600miles since I installed them. I even let everything sit for a day before cranking the car over. So I'm going to trailer it back to Utah, finish tearing it down, have the crank inspected (like it should have been) and then have the rotating assembly rebalanced along with new bearings. This should take care of the ultra rampant vibrations and allow me to finally get a damn tune on this car with no knock! Geez what a road.
Also, if you guys see me doing something wrong please speak up. I know a ton but I always enjoy learning as I understand I dont know everything. Thats just me being humble.

rod #1

rod #2

rod #3

rod #4

Now of course number 4 looks the worst because of the flywheel's vibration once it begins to loosen. Problem is, the flywheel shouldn't come loose, but the vibration from the imbalance has got to be whats making my flywheel bolts back out. The first time I installed the flywheel was during my build when I reused the stock bolts and made sure to apply loctite to them and torqued them to 90ft/lbs. About 1000miles later they backed out, all but two. The second time I installed ARP bolts with loctite and torqued them to 110ft/lbs and now they are backing out again. This time not as horribly as the last but its only been 600miles since I installed them. I even let everything sit for a day before cranking the car over. So I'm going to trailer it back to Utah, finish tearing it down, have the crank inspected (like it should have been) and then have the rotating assembly rebalanced along with new bearings. This should take care of the ultra rampant vibrations and allow me to finally get a damn tune on this car with no knock! Geez what a road.
Also, if you guys see me doing something wrong please speak up. I know a ton but I always enjoy learning as I understand I dont know everything. Thats just me being humble.
I won't post my sheet yet because i'm not done tuning yet and i want to get more runs to get a good average but in a couple of runs already my car put down 517hp and 438 ft at only 22 psi on a fully built 2.4 LR tuned and built by me,the car surely feels strong lighting off the tires from a roll in 1st and 2nd gear it's really fun,i'll post dyno sheets once i can fully tune it but so far it looks like a really promising turbo.
Im beyond pissed right now. Just look at these bearings! And like I said only 1700miles on them right now. I KNOW something didnt get done now.

rod #1

rod #2

rod #3

rod #4

Now of course number 4 looks the worst because of the flywheel's vibration once it begins to loosen. Problem is, the flywheel shouldn't come loose, but the vibration from the imbalance has got to be whats making my flywheel bolts back out. The first time I installed the flywheel was during my build when I reused the stock bolts and made sure to apply loctite to them and torqued them to 90ft/lbs. About 1000miles later they backed out, all but two. The second time I installed ARP bolts with loctite and torqued them to 110ft/lbs and now they are backing out again. This time not as horribly as the last but its only been 600miles since I installed them. I even let everything sit for a day before cranking the car over. So I'm going to trailer it back to Utah, finish tearing it down, have the crank inspected (like it should have been) and then have the rotating assembly rebalanced along with new bearings. This should take care of the ultra rampant vibrations and allow me to finally get a damn tune on this car with no knock! Geez what a road.
Also, if you guys see me doing something wrong please speak up. I know a ton but I always enjoy learning as I understand I dont know everything. Thats just me being humble.

rod #1

rod #2

rod #3

rod #4

Now of course number 4 looks the worst because of the flywheel's vibration once it begins to loosen. Problem is, the flywheel shouldn't come loose, but the vibration from the imbalance has got to be whats making my flywheel bolts back out. The first time I installed the flywheel was during my build when I reused the stock bolts and made sure to apply loctite to them and torqued them to 90ft/lbs. About 1000miles later they backed out, all but two. The second time I installed ARP bolts with loctite and torqued them to 110ft/lbs and now they are backing out again. This time not as horribly as the last but its only been 600miles since I installed them. I even let everything sit for a day before cranking the car over. So I'm going to trailer it back to Utah, finish tearing it down, have the crank inspected (like it should have been) and then have the rotating assembly rebalanced along with new bearings. This should take care of the ultra rampant vibrations and allow me to finally get a damn tune on this car with no knock! Geez what a road.
Also, if you guys see me doing something wrong please speak up. I know a ton but I always enjoy learning as I understand I dont know everything. Thats just me being humble.
Nothing wrong with them bearings really. Looks like a little foreign debris may have gotten in the oil thats about it.
Yeah, as I have never pulled a motor apart at such a young mileage interval I cant say anything is wrong with these either other than looking at number for rod bearing and seeing that something was on that bearing during the assembly process. That's never happened to me before because I have a room where I build my engines. There was a lot of traffic in and out of the room that day though so...but that still does not explain how the motor kept loosening its flywheel bolts. I mean first the stock ones loctited and torqued to 95ft/lbs (lasted 1000miles) then the second time where I replaced the stock flywheel bolts with ARP's and loctited them and torqued them to 110ft/lbs. That time they only lasted 600miles before the noise began to occur again and I found loose bolts on the flywheel again.
After showing the machine shop that did my balancing the bearing condition they agreed to rebalance the assembly and this time turn the crank for even clearance numbers. This will also help raise my oil pressure and help these new bearing wear a bit more evenly.
After showing the machine shop that did my balancing the bearing condition they agreed to rebalance the assembly and this time turn the crank for even clearance numbers. This will also help raise my oil pressure and help these new bearing wear a bit more evenly.
My LR 2.4L doesn't shake THAT bad with the Avid Mounts. It's surely more than stock, but I don't think it's to the point where bolts will be falling out. I agree that the assembly should be rebalanced.
I won't post my sheet yet because i'm not done tuning yet and i want to get more runs to get a good average but in a couple of runs already my car put down 517hp and 438 ft at only 22 psi on a fully built 2.4 LR tuned and built by me,the car surely feels strong lighting off the tires from a roll in 1st and 2nd gear it's really fun,i'll post dyno sheets once i can fully tune it but so far it looks like a really promising turbo.I wonder how it would go on. 2.0L






