Comp clutch high rpm lockout
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From: Winston Salem
Comp clutch high rpm lockout
My car previously had an Exedy twin disc clutch in it, but was removed due to dragging at low rpm. It was fine while driving and at high rpm. Replaced it with a Comp stage 2 full face clutch. The comp clutch drives much better and has no dragging at low rpm. The car however will not shift over 6500rpm. It is not load or gear dependent, but if the rpm goes over 6500 i cannot upshift. I can short shift at 6k all day long and anything lower.
I have adjusted my pedal to 3 different settings at this point, each time bringing the pedal higher to get more throw. The higher the pedal the smoother the shifting and less time i am locked out of the gear. I shouldn't have to keep pulling the pedal up to have a drivable car though. I have run out of adjustment for the clutch. I plan to thoroughly bleed the system, although i am not expecting anything from that.
The slave cylinder and clutch master have about 1k miles on them. The clutch also has about 1k miles on it and was mated to a resurfaced OEM flywheel. I am having a hard time trying to diagnose a problem, it doesn't make sense to me why the clutch would only drag at higher rpm. Anyone have an explanation or any ideas of possible causes?
I have adjusted my pedal to 3 different settings at this point, each time bringing the pedal higher to get more throw. The higher the pedal the smoother the shifting and less time i am locked out of the gear. I shouldn't have to keep pulling the pedal up to have a drivable car though. I have run out of adjustment for the clutch. I plan to thoroughly bleed the system, although i am not expecting anything from that.
The slave cylinder and clutch master have about 1k miles on them. The clutch also has about 1k miles on it and was mated to a resurfaced OEM flywheel. I am having a hard time trying to diagnose a problem, it doesn't make sense to me why the clutch would only drag at higher rpm. Anyone have an explanation or any ideas of possible causes?
Did you bleed the hydraulics system after installing the new clutch?
Clutch drag occurs at high rpm due to the clutch not releasing enough, and at higher rpm the disc flexes more and can make contact with the pressure plate or flywheel.
Clutch drag occurs at high rpm due to the clutch not releasing enough, and at higher rpm the disc flexes more and can make contact with the pressure plate or flywheel.
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From: Winston Salem
I bled the system 4 times before doing the comp install. After removing the trans twice in my garage, I finally payed someone to do it. Whether he bled the system after the install I am unsure of. I would assume not. I will be bleeding it shortly, wanting to do either a vacuum or pressure bleed over the conventional way.
prior to my installing the ACT 6 puck clutch I read horror stories about high rpm lockout. I read a thread from a member that stated lockout was due to clutch not releasing properly and recommended a few things during install.
- Thoroughly clean splines on tranny with wire brush.
- Lub splines on tranny and clutch disk with lithium grease
- Verify clutch disk slides freely on splines and remove excess grease
I never had the issue others experienced after doing this and shifted like butter at 9k rpm. Installing full face now and will report back if I have issues.
- Thoroughly clean splines on tranny with wire brush.
- Lub splines on tranny and clutch disk with lithium grease
- Verify clutch disk slides freely on splines and remove excess grease
I never had the issue others experienced after doing this and shifted like butter at 9k rpm. Installing full face now and will report back if I have issues.
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From: Winston Salem
prior to my installing the ACT 6 puck clutch I read horror stories about high rpm lockout. I read a thread from a member that stated lockout was due to clutch not releasing properly and recommended a few things during install.
- Thoroughly clean splines on tranny with wire brush.
- Lub splines on tranny and clutch disk with lithium grease
- Verify clutch disk slides freely on splines and remove excess grease
I never had the issue others experienced after doing this and shifted like butter at 9k rpm. Installing full face now and will report back if I have issues.
- Thoroughly clean splines on tranny with wire brush.
- Lub splines on tranny and clutch disk with lithium grease
- Verify clutch disk slides freely on splines and remove excess grease
I never had the issue others experienced after doing this and shifted like butter at 9k rpm. Installing full face now and will report back if I have issues.
It was fine while driving and at high rpm. Replaced it with a Comp stage 2 full face clutch. The comp clutch drives much better and has no dragging at low rpm. The car however will not shift over 6500rpm. It is not load or gear dependent, but if the rpm goes over 6500 i cannot upshift. I can short shift at 6k all day long and anything lower.
all items were applied as 240z mentioned prior to the comp stg 2 install. it was the solid disc version as well.
I also never experienced the horrible act lockout either. i ran 2 different discs with the basic act PP, no issues.
sorry to hear about your troubles.
I posted this in a act vs comp thread a while back:
go with act.
i ran the basic cover & ran the 6 puck sprung disc & it held >550 wtq/dyno jet
i used a basic cover with the street disc & then moved onto the sprung puck disc when i went with a 2.3L... for my old knees, the hdss pp was a little too much for me as i dd my evo, so i tried something lighter in feel & went to the clutch listed below.
i used the comp stg 2
...... shifted worse than stock, god forbid if you ever slipped the clutch accidentally, the smell was fkn horrible & it shifted worse than stock regardless of all the tinkering.
Here are my rpm limits while retaining good / effortless shifting.
oem @ ~7800 rpm on oem 2.0L, never really went much higher @ the time.
act w/sprung street disc ~8,000 on oem 2.0 & 2.3L 8k was my basic limit on 2.3L, I generally shifted ~7800 due to stroke, but engine still made power beyond 8k
act w/sprung puck disc 8,300 = never went higher due to stroke.
comp stg 2 w/solid disc @ ~7,200 rpm with no hassle. anything higher in revs, you had to wait & wait, all the while thinking "what a fkn mistake this clutch was"
exedy twin @ ???? never a problem @ any rpm for me.
Granted, many people have differing experiences, i am simply sharing my unbiased opinion / experiences.
i ran the basic cover & ran the 6 puck sprung disc & it held >550 wtq/dyno jet
i used a basic cover with the street disc & then moved onto the sprung puck disc when i went with a 2.3L... for my old knees, the hdss pp was a little too much for me as i dd my evo, so i tried something lighter in feel & went to the clutch listed below.
i used the comp stg 2
...... shifted worse than stock, god forbid if you ever slipped the clutch accidentally, the smell was fkn horrible & it shifted worse than stock regardless of all the tinkering.Here are my rpm limits while retaining good / effortless shifting.
oem @ ~7800 rpm on oem 2.0L, never really went much higher @ the time.
act w/sprung street disc ~8,000 on oem 2.0 & 2.3L 8k was my basic limit on 2.3L, I generally shifted ~7800 due to stroke, but engine still made power beyond 8k
act w/sprung puck disc 8,300 = never went higher due to stroke.
comp stg 2 w/solid disc @ ~7,200 rpm with no hassle. anything higher in revs, you had to wait & wait, all the while thinking "what a fkn mistake this clutch was"
exedy twin @ ???? never a problem @ any rpm for me.
Granted, many people have differing experiences, i am simply sharing my unbiased opinion / experiences.
I've read (from Jacks Trans) that removing the balance shaft causes enough vibration at high RPM to cause the disc to touch causing Lock Out http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...balance-shafts
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I've read (from Jacks Trans) that removing the balance shaft causes enough vibration at high RPM to cause the disc to touch causing Lock Out http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...balance-shafts
The BS system is there for more than driver comfort, its reducing some serious vibration / harmonics that can cause all sorts of mechanical wear issues
Sorry, off topic^^^
My ACT clutch was locking me out as well at high RPM. Dont really notice it anymore
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From: Winston Salem
Sucks to think it is the clutch. I used to only rev to about 7200rpm just because I felt safe there. I just made 500whp on my new setup, and it goes through the gears so quickly. Especially having to short shift it. Makes the car seem slow even though it pulls really hard. I considered the extended rod but I'm not big into bandaids covering up issues. Plus it would be my luck that I'd install the extended rod and pop the wave clip out of the clutch.
I've read (from Jacks Trans) that removing the balance shaft causes enough vibration at high RPM to cause the disc to touch causing Lock Out http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...balance-shafts
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From: Winston Salem
So upon doing a visual inspection, I found this. The clutch pedal bracket is broken and the actual chassis mount is broken as well. I feel like this very well may be my problem. I always thought my pedal seemed kind of weird and crooked. No telling how much free play that is causing before actual engagement.
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From: Winston Salem
I had a buddy come out and weld the chassis mount for me. Bought a new clutch pedal and got the car put back together. I am happy to report that my clutch dragging is gone. So just FYI to everyone, always do a thorough visual inspection before making any big decisions.
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