Valve seals or turbo seals? White smoke & oil burn smell
It's a "normal" sequence of events.
If you don't understand what goes on, you shouldn't be trying to tune cars or charge for your services.
That's why it's known as "creeping death".
Things just go from bad to worse over time.
Young inexperienced people have no experience of time.
If you don't understand what goes on, you shouldn't be trying to tune cars or charge for your services.
That's why it's known as "creeping death".
Things just go from bad to worse over time.
Young inexperienced people have no experience of time.
It's a "normal" sequence of events.
If you don't understand what goes on, you shouldn't be trying to tune cars or charge for your services.
That's why it's known as "creeping death".
Things just go from bad to worse over time.
Young inexperienced people have no experience of time.
If you don't understand what goes on, you shouldn't be trying to tune cars or charge for your services.
That's why it's known as "creeping death".
Things just go from bad to worse over time.
Young inexperienced people have no experience of time.
Notice he isn't really quoting anyone but just putting words in quotes for some odd reason.
"Young inexperienced people have no experience of time."
Watch out, we got a Nietzsche here!
It's literally $60-$100 in line/fittings (depends if you get pushlok or race fittings), $40 for drill bits and a tap, $20-$30 to pay a welder, and a $25 valvecover gasket kti from Oreilly's. Run a 10an line from the driver side of the valve cover to the intake pipe. You don't even need a catch can. Drill/tap the cover for 1/2" pipe to use a 1/2"NPT-10an fitting, and weld a 10an fitting to the intake pipe.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 816
Likes: 82
From: wisconsin
6an won't help...
The 4g63 makes a lot of crank case pressure when cold. Before I addressed it, my red smoked terribly on cold start, and less when warm. With proper ventilation, it doesn't smoke during cold start or normal driving anymore. Only smokes on track days in very specific situations.
The 4g63 makes a lot of crank case pressure when cold. Before I addressed it, my red smoked terribly on cold start, and less when warm. With proper ventilation, it doesn't smoke during cold start or normal driving anymore. Only smokes on track days in very specific situations.
Git-er-done likes telling everybody about how wrong they are well now it's my turn. Evo's have excessive blowby at idle? Well let me tell ya if your car was building enough crankcase pressure at idle / low load to burn oil your motor would be shot.
Or just leave the oil fill cap off for a test. It isn't going to fix your problem.
Hummm that's funny never heard of this. If your building that much crankcase pressure at idle you motor is shot. 4g63's do not normally do this.
Git-er-done likes telling everybody about how wrong they are well now it's my turn. Evo's have excessive blowby at idle? Well let me tell ya if your car was building enough crankcase pressure at idle / low load to burn oil your motor would be shot.
Or just leave the oil fill cap off for a test. It isn't going to fix your problem.
Git-er-done likes telling everybody about how wrong they are well now it's my turn. Evo's have excessive blowby at idle? Well let me tell ya if your car was building enough crankcase pressure at idle / low load to burn oil your motor would be shot.
Or just leave the oil fill cap off for a test. It isn't going to fix your problem.
That's a great way to make a mess.
And that's also why the smoke stopped when I properly upgraded the crank case vent system....
People don't understand how wildly undersized the stock crankcase vents are. The PCV valve has an ~1/8" orifice. The vent line on the driver side is like 5/16". A lot of N/A cars have more generous vent ports.
To expect the stock crankcase vent to support nearly double factory power levels is laughable.
Sean and I have the same FP turbocharger as the OP. We both went to the -10 from the VC thats been well known to do for the FP stuff. Its a badass turbocharger but its really sensitive to any pressure. It may be hard to warp your head around unless you've had an fp bb turbo and had to solve/deal with the issue. I don't know if they move oil for extra lubrication when people weld the wastegate shut or if its just the location of the turbo and drain location.
I also said this on June 11th ..
"When you start blowing the dipstick out the engine isn't happy and its too late.
I'd lean toward the turbocharger ( FP performs great but some have oil issues) if the tune hasn't been pushed too hard ( Everyone wants to pack too much timing into them ) and the stock engine was in good shape. Leak down/compression are good.
I'd recommend the following in this order.
-10 on the driver side of the V/C to a large baffled can then back to the intake pipe. Stock pcv
5-40 oil of your choice (Rotella syn is fine if you aren't doing road course days, if you are a 10-40 brad penn or equivalent is good) 20-50 isn't needed at your level and thick oil drains worse out of the turbo
Increase idle speed to 1150-1250 to create a better vacuum and keep crankcase pressure down.
Oil drain needs to be clean/unobstructed.
Drive car below 3500 until the oil gets to 160* The 4g63 makes alot of oil pressure,even more when cold.
Restrict turbo slightly more.
Have turbo inspected by fp"
Sidenote, I also said to call FP as the newer turbo's have a .020 (smaller then what the OP has) restrictor and fp should inspect the turbo
Compression/leak down aren't everything. I've seen engines pass them and still sound and be hurt.
I had a slight issue on my stock engine on 20-50 (roadcourse days) oil with the red even with the -10 line. Went to 5-40 and it was ok. Going to a built engine made it slightly worse since a built engine is going to move a little more air when cold as the pistons (2618) expand. I had an occasional huff of smoke at idle. My engine is on the tighter side and things are going to be worse with engines built on the loose end of the spectrum. I ended up going to a -10 drain line from the turbo and ALSO restricting it a small amount more. Zero issues now. The drain is the same size as stock so I really think lowering the oil pressure made the difference. I have a gauge on the turbo feed line and it changed alot during cold operation.
The -10 line from the V/C (recirculated) needed to go on as the BB FP turbo went on. There is also an article by FP "OH NO! My turbo is smoking and oil is coming out!"
I also said this on June 11th ..
"When you start blowing the dipstick out the engine isn't happy and its too late.
I'd lean toward the turbocharger ( FP performs great but some have oil issues) if the tune hasn't been pushed too hard ( Everyone wants to pack too much timing into them ) and the stock engine was in good shape. Leak down/compression are good.
I'd recommend the following in this order.
-10 on the driver side of the V/C to a large baffled can then back to the intake pipe. Stock pcv
5-40 oil of your choice (Rotella syn is fine if you aren't doing road course days, if you are a 10-40 brad penn or equivalent is good) 20-50 isn't needed at your level and thick oil drains worse out of the turbo
Increase idle speed to 1150-1250 to create a better vacuum and keep crankcase pressure down.
Oil drain needs to be clean/unobstructed.
Drive car below 3500 until the oil gets to 160* The 4g63 makes alot of oil pressure,even more when cold.
Restrict turbo slightly more.
Have turbo inspected by fp"
Sidenote, I also said to call FP as the newer turbo's have a .020 (smaller then what the OP has) restrictor and fp should inspect the turbo
Compression/leak down aren't everything. I've seen engines pass them and still sound and be hurt.
I had a slight issue on my stock engine on 20-50 (roadcourse days) oil with the red even with the -10 line. Went to 5-40 and it was ok. Going to a built engine made it slightly worse since a built engine is going to move a little more air when cold as the pistons (2618) expand. I had an occasional huff of smoke at idle. My engine is on the tighter side and things are going to be worse with engines built on the loose end of the spectrum. I ended up going to a -10 drain line from the turbo and ALSO restricting it a small amount more. Zero issues now. The drain is the same size as stock so I really think lowering the oil pressure made the difference. I have a gauge on the turbo feed line and it changed alot during cold operation.
The -10 line from the V/C (recirculated) needed to go on as the BB FP turbo went on. There is also an article by FP "OH NO! My turbo is smoking and oil is coming out!"
Last edited by Abacus; Jul 24, 2017 at 03:04 PM.
The internet is like alcohol, both can make you think you are smarter then you actually are.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 816
Likes: 82
From: wisconsin
You clearly have never logged crankcase pressure, especially when the engine is cold. These FP ball bearing turbo's can be very sensitive to crankcase pressure. Just a few psi can make them smoke. It doesn't have to be anything excessive.
That's a great way to make a mess.
That's a great way to make a mess.
Here in lies the difference. I'm usually correcting you. Some of what you say is either wrong, or largely irrelevant to the issue at hand. Sorry, not sorry.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 816
Likes: 82
From: wisconsin
