Modification Regrets?
what cams do you have?
Here is a description from someone who has modded many more cars than I have.
Here is a description from someone who has modded many more cars than I have.
I had cams in my IX. Basically, the biggest things that suffer are idle and low-speed drivability smoothness. Cams make a car less of a jump in and go affair; you have to learn the quirks of the car, how it behaves, etc. My IX was undrivable for most people. My [ex-]wife couldn't drive it, my parents couldn't, only a few other Evo-owner friends could...with my X, anyone can drive it. It still drives just as smooth as stock; if you can drive a stick-shift, you can drive my X.
There is no doubt I could see some nice gains in power with cams, but I'm just not willing to sacrifice the daily-drivability of it. Maybe if I ever pick up a second car again I'll consider doing a set of mild camshafts, but until then they're not something I'm interested in.
There is no doubt I could see some nice gains in power with cams, but I'm just not willing to sacrifice the daily-drivability of it. Maybe if I ever pick up a second car again I'll consider doing a set of mild camshafts, but until then they're not something I'm interested in.
I have comp 272s and also a triple disc so I have many parts not in the favor of commuting but it's not that bad. I guess it would depend on your idle and how your tune is setup on decel and what it does coming to a stop. I've never had to punch the gas pedal or anything like you would have to do with a big block Chevy or something lol. I've been in cars with kelford 280s which are much more aggressive and they still aren't that bad
I have comp 272s and also a triple disc so I have many parts not in the favor of commuting but it's not that bad. I guess it would depend on your idle and how your tune is setup on decel and what it does coming to a stop. I've never had to punch the gas pedal or anything like you would have to do with a big block Chevy or something lol. I've been in cars with kelford 280s which are much more aggressive and they still aren't that bad
For me it'd be the big turbo i put on the LGT. Lots of $$ and time for a much later spool and not much more power. Would've been better off spending 1/2 $$ on a proper e85 setup on vf39 and made more power at much lower rpm.
Regrets:
1) The Twin steering column pod. It blocks my vision on the gas and CEL. Gonna relocate he radio and put the guages there
2)SS Brake lines - No difference whatsoever
3) 65mm TB - thought it would increase "throttle response"....nope. If you have anything smaller then FPRed, i think you dont need a ported TB
4) Brake Cylinder brace - not much of a difference
5)upgrading my 2003 turbo to a 2005. Should have just went with a IX or bigger.
6) Rear bump steer kit - unless you auto x or road race, i dont see a difference.
7) SS clutch line - unless you have a real issue or you do the work yourself, save your money.
Things that made a difference i did not expect:
1) Engine TQ damper - Cheap,easy to install, makes the car smoother and shifting easier
2) APS BOV (or any good bov) - if you are boosting over 24ish you will pick up a lot of HP from holding more boost!
3) Beatrush U-Tray - Really improves high speed stability!!!
4) Front Engine mount - cured my lockout! (prolly the only engine mount you need)
5)Good WG - the car is a different animal if it can build boost. Put some preload on it, if you can
6) Stock flywheel - (I had ACT streetlite) - makes driving much smoother. I would get aftermarket FW only if i roadrace.
1) The Twin steering column pod. It blocks my vision on the gas and CEL. Gonna relocate he radio and put the guages there
2)SS Brake lines - No difference whatsoever
3) 65mm TB - thought it would increase "throttle response"....nope. If you have anything smaller then FPRed, i think you dont need a ported TB
4) Brake Cylinder brace - not much of a difference
5)upgrading my 2003 turbo to a 2005. Should have just went with a IX or bigger.
6) Rear bump steer kit - unless you auto x or road race, i dont see a difference.
7) SS clutch line - unless you have a real issue or you do the work yourself, save your money.
Things that made a difference i did not expect:
1) Engine TQ damper - Cheap,easy to install, makes the car smoother and shifting easier
2) APS BOV (or any good bov) - if you are boosting over 24ish you will pick up a lot of HP from holding more boost!
3) Beatrush U-Tray - Really improves high speed stability!!!
4) Front Engine mount - cured my lockout! (prolly the only engine mount you need)
5)Good WG - the car is a different animal if it can build boost. Put some preload on it, if you can
6) Stock flywheel - (I had ACT streetlite) - makes driving much smoother. I would get aftermarket FW only if i roadrace.
thanks for this honest review. you saved me from buying ss clutch line and also instead put some fire under my *** to get new stiff front motor mount ie roll stopper!
Yes it can be with a little street tuning. My car didn't do that at all at first, then it started doing it out of no where and then fixed it again while driving around with my tuner. It is pretty annoying
The Perrin intake filter is so oily, drives me nuts. Before installing I wrapped paper towels around it and squeezed them with rubber bands for about a week. Thought I had most of it out but removed the intake recently and found a puddle of oil under the filter where it pushed up against the heat shield. The intake tube is great but the oily filter and the suction sound are overkill IMO. I think I am going to go with a cotton/non oiled filter next and save the MAF sensor.


