This site is the WORST place to try to sell a car. If you have patience and advertise the car, you can and will sell it and get a reasonable amount.

This site has two kinds of people, enthusiasts who modify their cars and appreciate a clean modified car, or a stock car, and some of the cheapest lowballing buyers you can ever come across.

In a regular market, this car is in demand, and you will get a decent price for it. However a majority of the cars that are sold here, are modified and returned to stock, modified and butchered, distressed sale (guy can't afford it), etc.. Which makes one perceive the car has a really low resale value. Its just that there will always be "bargains" to be found because people get in over their head, or bored, and want to "get out of it" as quickly as possible.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=232898

 

omg 23,500? ouch. I guess I'll just get a beater. lol.

 

I agree with most of what you said but there are a lot of assumptions there such as "regular market".

I am not drawing conclusions based solely on this site. I am basing it on my firsthand experience buying and selling (using everything from autotrader to cars.com to ebay to dealers to this site). I kept my eyes open to cars in a 600 mile radius during prime selling season and these cars are just plain hard to sell. Perhaps its different on the coasts but you try emailing someone in between and they will practically beg you to come check out the car.

 

Two things...

First, it can be advantageous to trade your car into a dealership. Let's say that you are upside down a few thousand and your original loan was at 8%. If the manufacturer is offering a rate of 0% or 0.9% or something like that, you might actually save money by trading in your car and attaching the negative equity to the new car loan. Only at a dealership will you be able to get out of a high interest upside down loan without massive cash out of pocket.

Second, I would invite some of you to consider the mathematics of buying a beater car. If you already own one, fine. But to go out and drop $3K on a used Honda doesn't make sense. The price of the beater, the maintenance, the small difference in gas mileage and the cost of insurance can easily exceed the cost of just driving your Evo to and from work. I have 50,000 miles on my 05. I calculated that buying a beater would be far more expensive for me than just having one car and driving it a lot.

 

I agree.

Some people can't afford to buy a beater and maintain it to working condition. The ones telling him to "buy a beater" already have one or was there previous car before the evo, you guys already has an advantage on the OTS. Trades suck on most cars as I was looking to trade in my G for a 06 is350 or 335i (but there back order to hell), I only have 55k on mine and im getting a lil over 22k for it, not bad, but I would like alil more.

Also for you guys complaing about his driving condition, get off dudes back. We are built and drive different, we don't do everything or can take freeway / street bumps, potholes the same. Just cuz you drive 10 more miles than the next man doesnt mean he can do it too. Some people can take the suspenion, some cant. After awhile you just want something more comfortable or softer, why the hate on him? He ask for people trade in experince, he didnt ask to be ridicule for driving condition.

 

Also for you guys complaing about his driving condition, get off dudes back. We are built and drive different, we don't do everything or can take freeway / street bumps, potholes the same. Just cuz you drive 10 more miles than the next man doesnt mean he can do it too. Some people can take the suspenion, some cant. After awhile you just want something more comfortable or softer, why the hate on him? He ask for people trade in experince, he didnt ask to be ridicule for driving condition.


Well said. As much as I love the Evo I have been tempted to let it go for something a little more suitable for my type of driving (conservative commuting to and from work). I actually have my eye on the 4G Eclipse GT. I sat in one this week at the San Diego Auto Show. I'm sad to say that the ergonomics, comfort and styling of the interior trounces the Evo. Alas, though, I can't seem to part with my Blue Beast. Wish I could afford both...

So anyway, people are entitled to their opinion and wants. It's quite irritating to me when well-intentioned people post a "traded in the Evo for a _____" thread only to get slammed by mean-spirited Evo purists.

 

I went to trade my 03 with 66k on it and they offered me $17000 first. Then when they saw I had lowered the car they said they couldnt touch it. They gave me the number of a wholesaler and he offered me $15000.

 

Yeah you know what else is ef'd up about dealers? They had the nerve to tell me that they won't be able to sell that car on their lot. Granted they were nissan and an infinity dealership, but because of the location (high bypassing traffic) that evo will sell quick. Why try to bullshyt a bullshytter you know? Trying to tell me they'd have to sell it to an auction. Paleeze. The fact that nissan offered me 13.5k for an 04 with 35K miles is a HUGE slap in the face.

 

Speaking of math, I'ld love to see an example of this where you actually come out ahead. You might get your monthly payment lower but you are going to be in a bigger hole (either in terms of negative equity or in terms of overall loan - more than likely in both unless you buy a significantly cheaper car).

Better advice would be to get your priorities straight, clean up your credit score, and either refinance the loan or just work your *** off and pay it off altogether and vow not to make that mistake again

 

Don't take it personally dude. That is a laughable offer but realize that there are a lot of morons out there who would actually be dumb enough to jump on it just because they have their heart set on the new car. Don't believe me? Just check out the "what are you monthly payment" thread on here to see some of the binds people have themselves in. My advice would be to shop around at other dealers or just sell the car privately. You would alse be doing yourself a favor to return the car to stock before you take it to a dealer as well.

 

Here's an example...

Suppose you finance $32K at 8% for 6 years. Your monthly payment will be about $561/month. After two years of payments you will still owe $22,982. The remainder of your payments will total $26,928. Let's say that after two years you trade your car in on a new car that costs, say, $21,000. After tax, license and negative equity (say $3,000) you finance $26,100 at 0% for 5 years. Your new payment will be $435/month. Going this route will save you almost $900 over the life of the loan (though it will add a year and you might get less of a car). If your original interest rate is ruinous, say 12% or more, then it would definitely make sense to get out of the car with negative equity and into a comparable one at a really low rate. If your original rate were really high then you would still be better off trading it in rather than putting extra toward that loan every month. Keep in mind, though, that someone can get screwed into paying way too much for a car (both in interest rate and in purchase price). If one can really improve their interest rate and aggressively negotiate a really good purchase price then in some cases you could get the same car brand new and save money. You can't do anything about negative equity. It's going to have to be dealt with somehow. I'd rather deal with it at 0% than at 14%.

Thus endeth the math lesson for today.

 

I just recently got a second car that also doubles as my wife's car. I can't stand to put useless interstate miles on my precious Evo anymore - 30k miles in one year is far too excessive, especially if one plans on keeping his/her Evo for a while like I plan to.

I could never get a beater car and decided I could afford a $10-12k used car. After a week of hard research, I managed to discover a good 2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart with about 21k miles for $11.5k. It's a good clean, practical family car that I'd recommend to any Evo owner with a family.

Point is, getting a second car is a great idea.

 

You ignored some math in your calculation

You are going from a $32,000 car to a $21,000 car. $32k > 21k

You are going from $3000 upside down to probably around $8000 upside down. $3k < $8k

You are going from $23k in debt to 26k in debt. $23k < $26k

You are also going from 4 years left of payments to 5 years.

I wouldn't consider this coming out "ahead"

You also ingored a couple other key points:

1. The fact that for someone to get the best interest rate of 0 or .9 or whatever - they have to have a high credit score. Which means if they qualify, they could just as easily get a refinance from a credit union to lower their current rate, get a CC with a 0% APR offer, etc, etc, etc.

2. The fact that you have already eaten the biggest brunt of depreciation (probably around 40% of the cost of the car) and that the value will now hold more steady from here on out whereas with the new car, you are basically starting over and getting ready to get your head chopped off again. Doing some rough math on the numbers you gave, that means you will be upside down for a good 2.5 - 3 years on the new car (assuming a typical 20% loss/year)!!! On the current car, if you kept everything the same, you would be even in around a year!

 

You have some good points. There are a lot of variables to consider, though. As I mentioned you would most likely get less of a car. Hypothetically, however, it's possible that someone could pay way too much for a car (ignorant of the negotiating process + bad credit + huge markup such as when the Evo first came out) but then 2 years later could get the same car for a great price (last day of the month + desparate sales manager + bankruptcy coming off the credit record). There are a lot of factors to consider but my intention was to illustrate that it could be advantageous for someone to trade in a car and ultimately save money (even after tacking on tax, license and negative equity) in the long run. I was merely considering the "big picture" factors like monthly payment and total amount of payments, not total debt at the moment (which of course would increase initially). And I've never seen a credit union offer the kind of rates that the manufacturer sometimes offers, even if you have perfect credit. Of course it would be better to refinance an existing high interest loan rather than roll it over to a new one. But banks and credit unions will only refinance at high blue book value so that if you're upside down in a loan, you'll need to come up with the difference out-of-pocket. It's a trade-off. But you are correct in your points and I appreciate you making them.